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I've been methodically removing as much rust as I can from various underbody car parts as parts of a restoration project, and some of them were pretty badly rusted. Not anywhere near enough to threaten their structural integrity, but enough to cause lots of pitting where there were rust pits...

I've been painstakingly removing rust and paint from some control arms I intend to coat with POR-15. The arms are structurally sound but the rust went beyond the surface stage and left lots of very shallow pits that are mostly 2-5mm in width. I was able to get the rust out of most of them but...

I'm restoring the rear end of an old car and intend to use POR-15 on some parts, including the control arms. They each have a bushing on one end and a ball joint on the other. The old ones have been removed and I've been cleaning them up to remove rust, crud, grime, etc. I'll then degrease and...

I recently bought the Milwaukee M12 right angle die grinder and absolutely love it. I've mainly been using it to remove rust, crud and paint from underside parts from an old car I've been restoring, and it works great for that using the right bits, mainly strip and surface conditioning roloc...

Technically not a "tool", more of a consumable like paint or rust remover, but I've been restoring an old car and reusing most of the old fasteners unless they're single use ones like self-locking nuts, or they just look too worn, after cleaning them up and derusting them. They look great...

Sorry for the throwaway thread, but on a semi-whim I recently ordered Milwaukee's M12 non-Fuel brushed cordless 3/8" ratchet. There was a one day deal where you get it as a "free" extra tool along with the base kit consisting of the M12 Fuel hammer drill, impact driver, 2 & 4Ah batteries...

I just bought a Milwaukee M12 Fuel right angle die grinder along with a bunch of batteries ranging from 2Ah to 6Ah, and intend to use it to remove surface and relatively minor pitted rust and caked-on crud from underbody car parts like a subframe, sway bar, rear diff, brackets, etc, along with...

I have this old Black & Decker 9019 Type 2 cordless screwdriver that died years ago. I came across it the other day while rummaging through one of my junk boxes and decided to take it apart to see if I could revive it. It's a nice tool, with a mechanical clutch that came in handy. Turns out...

Not sure what it would be called, but basically, I was wondering if either the major power tool makers or 3rd party battery and accessory makers make adapters that attach to a given power tool like a battery would, but instead of being an actual battery, they have a longish wire or cable that...

Sorry if this has already been asked and answered a million times and/or this is the wrong forum to post this on. But I recently bought several Milwaukee M12 kits at HD and need to return one because I don't need it. Never used, opened once just to see if everything was inside, perfect and...

Very specific question. This isn't about clearance or reach, but rather getting the maximal impact torque transferred from the impact wrench to the lug nut, and, all other things being equal, which is more likely to do that, a deep or shallow socket. From my research there are arguments pro and...

I've never owned or used an angle grinder and have put off buying one till now. The main use I'd have for one is removing tough rust from complexly-shaped structural auto parts, e.g. control arms, brake calipers, suspension springs, manifolds, etc. I've been restoring a 29 year old car and...

I've been doing a fair amount of auto repair and maintenance work and I'm thinking of getting a relatively inexpensive set of digital calipers but first want to get a sense of why I need them and what I might do with them that I can't do, or do as easily and accurately, with my micrometer set...

Several years ago I picked up a Sears Craftsman 20V drill & impact driver kit that included a charger and 2x 1.5Ah batteries. Nothing special or fancy and certainly far from high end or pro quality, and it's now an orphaned line what with Sears all but out of business, but for my needs it's...

Question about DIY hydraulic press parts & design I'm going to be repairing the manual transmission on my car soon and I'm almost certainly going to have to pull apart one or more of the gear stacks to replace some synchros and possibly other parts, and will need a hydraulic press to do it. I...

I'm restoring a 28 year old car with lots of rust on the underbody, that thankfully doesn't appear to have caused structural damage but does need to be removed so it never gets to that stage. But it's more than just surface rust, and some of it is the caked-on type that's mixed with oil and...

I'd like to build myself a smallish hydraulic press, something that could fit on a table and use say a 6-ton bottle jack. I realize that decent ready-made presses aren't that expensive, but cost is less a factor than size. I literally have no place to store a standard floor press. Nor do I...

I have a 1/2" impact wrench, a Craftsman 19.2V C3, that's been great for what I need it to do e.g. removing lug nuts, axle nuts & caliper bolts, pressing wheel bearings off and on, etc. I've also used it on lower-torque fasteners, but it's pretty big and unwieldy and not very easy or pleasant to...

I recently bought this Craftsman bit set from Sears that includes a bunch of impact bits meant to be used with impact drills and drivers (along with various non-impact bits): https://www.sears.com/craftsman-100pc-speed-lok-set/p-00947625000P I'm wondering if I can use the impact bits in this...

Need to buy open-ended wrench: 20x22mm or 22x24mm? I recently replaced both outer tie rods on my 2010 Kia Rio. None of my fixed open-ended wrenches were big enough (my biggest is a 19mm), so I had to use 2 adjustable crescent/pipe wrenches, which wasn't ideal because they kept loosening and I...