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I found that my belt sander has a bad brush and I'm attempting to find a replacement and not having much luck. The original part number is 2-730352-01 It is around .335 square or a little over 5/16" The spring is 1/4" diameter The cap is 17/32" The square brush holder is 11/32" square Try as...

I decided to do a Refresh on my saw and found that someone had been into the arbor before and damage was done. The saw ran well before but it had some issues that I wanted to correct. The model is 103.27270 and the part #s are: 46616 Arbor Shaft 46641 Arbor Flange (pressed on) Other model...

Thanks Folks, It has the same cross section as a typical V belt. I like using notched belts (AX) on the machines that I restore. If the pulley is less than 3" or so then I consider a notched belt but this one takes it to a whole new level. It is very floppy and has no set. I put it on another...

I just picked up a 1983 Delta table saw and this belt was on it. Obviously a replacement but what can you tell me about it? Is a table saw a good application for it? It is very loose and flexible and seems to work fine. Just curious. Sub Dude

I just purchased a mid 80's table saw to restore and I noticed that the far end die cast clamp part is broke. Yup, same as everyone else. I'm sure that many table 10" including possibly a unisaw fence part would work. It clamps a 1 3/8" tube rail. If you have one you care to sell, let me know...

Thanks, I'll give that a look. I'm pretty comfortable navigating Excel. I've been using a spreadsheet since Lotus 123 in the early 90's. .wk1 and all that. Sub

Jeff, I've looked at a few of your YouTubes and I'm being notified on the new 100 series. Well done. I'm still working through a few minor issues but I think I have this one well in hand. I've spotted a few of your spreadsheets on google drive but I'm having issues saving those to my Mac. I...

It is a 1/2" Belt and the quill pulleys are around 3/4" from the top of the head casting to the top of the pulleys. There is a little vertical movement in the quill pulleys but no more than 1/16". I just looked and the belt has left marks from before I had it on the "plateau". All that I can...

Of course it is. How did I miss that. The thumbs up came through as "(y)" for some reason initially. I could move the motor and pulley up a sheave and then have only 3 available speeds. I think I'll see how the new belt rides on the lower pulleys once it arrives. So now what do I do with...

"Please elaborate. I'm not sure what you mean." Please look at the pic below. The sleeve I'm asking about is directly above the quill stop collar. That does not appear to be something that my model had but then my diagram only shows one quill pulley bearing. I was wondering why the stop...

Frank, That explains a few things for me. Why was the upper O-ring collapsed and why were the upper bearing screws bent when I removed them. Yes, once things start to unravel there can be some collateral damage. In the cutaway, I see a collar just below the upper bearing and the stop collar. I...

I see what you did there. That makes perfect sense. Did the extra slot mean that the stop rod nut when tightened would tend to open up the gap. The locking bolt would tend to hold things together I guess. What I did was to put a machinist rule edge in the base of the slots cut in the quill...

I will be assembling the quill with new bearings and upper O ring Tomorrow. I have one question. My quill stop is rather tight on the quill tube. I need to install this part between the chuck and quill tube prior to assembly due to the fact that I was unable to remove the chuck. The stop goes...

I love learning about this stuff. Today it was the importance of bearing preload. I had no idea. Thanks Frank for that and the pointers on the lubrication. I just took delivery of some superlube and I'll try it on the appropriate parts. I've not used it before. Thanks Sub

And then I found a good (maybe factory) pic of a motor mounted with the switch and motor label on the right side of the press. I can see the small raised area for the Klixon on top just under the pulley. I think I over think this stuff. I'm goin' with what I got. It has lasted 75 years this way.

Frank, Thanks for all the good info. Is there a good reason why the terminal/ C switch end should always be on the bottom. That is the way mine is/was and it seems for all purposes thatit is "factory correct". The upper quill O-ring explanation makes sense. Basically it ensures that the...

I just assembled the motor after giving it a good cleaning and repacking the bearings. This is my first drill press restoration and I've been thinking about what is the correct way to mount the motor. This one has spring washers on the non C switch end. All 4 of the fits on the bearings are...

Well I've been working to remove the chuck and I've decided to just clean the chuck in place and not disassemble. I have been working to get it loose from the taper but it ain't budgie'. It is "dry" but has smooth movement. A little flush with some carb cleaner and then I'll just shoot some 20W...

The disassembly has commenced. Most things went OK. I will replace the quill bearings since I happen to have some nice ones in that size. The upper pulley bearings are some nice bearings that have good tolerances but I'd like to clean and repack. The are sealed bearings and the rubber seals...

Thanks Frank, That is the one in Holt now residing NW of GR a few miles. I'm located in Lowell. That is an elegant solution on the lever. Is there a rule of thumb for setting the height of the DP head. Quill arms pivot at Shoulder height maybe. This is my first restoration on a Vintage DP...