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Make sure you visit the stores without the "U" in the name. :)

Look at the Skil SD561802. USB rechargeable but not sure if it's USB-C. Can't tell from the manual.

"If it saves me money by doing it myself then I don't care how much I spend." GJ mantra So if it would cost $400 to have someone come out and mount some hardware, heck, just spend $350 on a SDS drill you might use once. Never mind that the $40 HF hammer drill would get it done too. smh

Occam's razor It's the tool.

RC hobbyists are familiar with C ratings of batteries. That is what you are seeing with high current tools working better with higher capacity batteries versus lower capacity. All things being equal an 8Ah battery will have greater current flow than a 2Ah battery.

I buy all my Bosch reconditioned now. Just like your DeWalt experience they look brand new. They are likely just returns from people that changed their mind. They also put new batteries in, so you know those are new. CPO stopped selling reconditioned Milwaukee. I don't know if that was their...

That one is brand new. Only 1 left. You better hurry. And it looks like it's a 3 year warranty.

SBD employee can get it for $149, so yeah, likely is not legit.

What about a backpack?

The table is cast aluminum, not pressed steel. It is designed as a worksite saw, so if you are looking for a cast iron table you would want to look at the Rigid. However, that weighs like 200 lbs, so likely not a good option for those requiring portability. Not directed at you, but IMO the...

All of my cordless are Bosch. Love the 12V tools. Can't beat them for size. I buy all of them refurb from CPO now. You can't tell them apart from new. Plus they send them with new batteries.

This OP is perplexing. You are asking between a 12V and 18V drill. Big difference between the 2. Plus you already have 12V drills, so IMO you should either be considering adding on to your 12V or just getting an 18V drill. You aren't gaining much ditching your Bosch and going to 12V Milwaukee...

The best and simplest single mode light I have is the old, discontinued Fenix TX20, not the newer one. This one was button press on the cap, 2AA, and slight twist of the lens to put it in high.

You would hate one that I once owned. Operating flowchart below PH = Press Hold 1C = 1 click

I'm so glad I kept my Skil 367 6 1/2 worm drive. I never had to worry about the weight and heft of the 77, so I actually enjoyed cutting with a worm drive saw. That blade size is all you really need for 99% of general framing, unless you are bevel cutting. It was the only saw I used until a...

I never said 45 only. I said corners are not square so if you get an outside corner so out of square and plumb you have to split the difference and then also shim one end on the saw to close either the heel or toe of the baseboard. That's not easy to do using the bevel function. Some of the...

Outside and inside corners are never square or plumb. Cutting angles other than 45 degrees and offsetting the cut top to bottom to close the gap is next to impossible using the bevel rather than the miter function.

If they don't warranty it, rather than buy a rebuild kit I would take that money and buy the Pittsburgh flex ratchet.

Lowe's has DCD794 drill/driver and DCF809 impact. Ace has DCD793 drill/driver and DCF840 impact. Both drill/drivers are Gen2 Atomic although the DCD793 is in the older body. DCF840 is newer and has more impacts per second and is slightly slimmer. DCD809 is the older gen impact. As GeoBruin...