Search results

A few more details. Flashing under the strapping and siding, extends to 8" below grade to protect the styrofoam. Steel beam rated for 2 tons. Garage door opener, absolutely the best one out there.

Slab is fully insulated with 2" styrofoam, re-bar on 24" centres including under those boxes, more on that later. Here you see the first pour done, the inner forms removed, backfilled and then remainder of Styrofoam and vapor barrier done. The vapor barrier is overkill due to the properties of...

I say that with the upmost of respect, as a Porsche enthusiast I came accross an article of Jack's car. I was impressed, however not only about the car but as much about the garage. A little about my new garage, I have an attached double on the house and needed more room to work on the car, my...

I have a fairly large Ingersoll Rand compressor in my house garage. I built a detached garage and have two choices, purchase another compressor for the detached or run a line from the attached garage to the detached. My issue is both garages are heated but the line would go through freezing...

I just had a 7' high door installed with a high lift kit and the tracks were made to follow the slope of the ceiling. With a torsion spring system and a Liftmaster 8500, I have almost full clearance for my lift. Tracks are approx 12" from the ceiling.

Can't seem to find an answer to this one so here goes. Does anyone know the difference between L-HM and HM Hydraulic oils. I see both on the internet however I cannot make out the difference.

is it necessary for your cooler floor to be level with the slab at the door. If you don't mind a step, I would put a sub floor in the cooler and use XPS as a thermal break between the two and the just let the cooler sit there.

I have made my own from 8 footers for a shed. As someone previously posted the sections are usually 2' wide so cut the last section out with a skill saw, remove the end blocking from the cut section and glue back into the now 6' wide panel. Very easy to do.

I just received mine two days ago. It's in my garage but not installed yet.

R-40

All the instructions I have seen show the extendable part of the lift towards the back of the car, you seem to have put it towards the front. Any reason for this?

Well, here in Montreal a typical standard for a heated space would be R20 in walls and R40 in ceiling. Spray foam is the best but around here it can cost up to ten times the price of bat insulation if you don't factor your labour on installing the bats. I would think your backed fiberboard...

Kent would be where? The answer to your questions depends on where you live and wether you will heat or cool the garage.

You cannot span 30' without some sort of beam, posts or supporting wall. In my area, 2x10 with 16" spacing will yield about a 15' span.

I just faced the same thing. I have a two car garage attached to the house and the city would not let me build an extra garage any larger than 430sq.ft. and 15 feet high. Considering I already had space to park the two cars I wanted more a working garage. I am presently building 16' x 26'10"...

This may be obvious but there are 144 sq. inches in a square foot, so 25 pounds per square inch = 3600 pounds per square foot. That's a huge capable load. As others have said, 25psi foam board is fine.

I'm considering a porcelain garage floor as I like the looks. Does anyone have one that he welds over. I'm wondering how it will hold up to sparks.

Can you post a link to where you purchased it. I was going to buy the EE-6503 but it's about $3000 now.