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I don't know about north Dakota, but when its cold, and I'm talking like single digits and below zero, yeah I start my truck and go back in the house and have another cup a Joe.

There are too many safe cheap ways to heat your garage then trying to tap into your home HVAC will be give disappointing results at best and at worst could introduce carbon monoxide or other chemicals into your home. Building codes are in place to protect you.

Why not just keep the garage at 40* your car will thank you and you'll save gas not idleing it to warm up.

Would the smaller tank with the float switch be heated? If yes and located above the level of the burner then as long as the pump is in good condition it should have no problem, also the return line isn't needed as long as there is a good gravity feed to the pump.

The regulator has a safety feature that shuts down flow in case of accidental disconnection, maybe 75 kbtu is more flow then its rated for and its occasionally tripping the safety feature. Try giving the manufacturer a call, they should be able to tell you how many btus that regulator can support.

I believe dubya is referring to a radiant tube that hangs from the ceiling, not hydronic infloor heat. As for sizing and pricing, your best bet is to call around to local contractors they will be able to size the system correctly and give you a price, most will give free estimates.

You welding it on so just hold it in place and tack it every few inches before welding it solid. Lids and barrels from different manufacturers aren't always going to interchange.

While some people are capable of DIY, not everyone can or wants to. I make an honest living doing HVAC and have never stole from anyone. I can sew but if I need stitches I go to a doctor, I can read but if I need legal knowledge I go to a lawyer. To do everything involved in the HVAC field takes...

There are high efficiency boilers out there that can also heat your domestic hot water too, usually more efficient then the std tank type natural draft water heaters and you have a hard time running it out of hot water.

You can check the ppm rating of the detector you've got it should be listed on the back

Yes, agree 100% and add many co detectors won't alarm till 400 ppm, lethal dose is around 100 ppm, and the fire department will be wearing self contained breathing gear if levels are over 35 ppm. Good co detectors won't set an alarm till 40 or 50 ppm. Google nsi national safety institute co...

Be carefull, sloppy hack job work that you can see usually means sloppy hack job stuff you can't see. Like bad electrical and stuff hidden behind drywall.

A professional would not use that stuff on a furnace, it looks sloppy and often won't meet code requirements. Home inspectors don't always look very close at a furnace either, if its more then 1 or 2 years old, or has a history tag on it showing service every year I'd suggest getting it checked.

Good point, then there's also the question of why the old one failed? Was it sized correctly? There's a lot more that goes into replacing a boiler then just being able to solder. Oh and there's also gas piping to work with, just recently saw a story on the news about a home that was left a...

1 a digital thermostat will have no trouble with that heater, its an on off switch it don't care what its turning on and off. 2 carbon monoxide is no joke it is lethal!!!! If you even suspect some CO leakage get it tested by a professional, I think the fire department does checks for CO also...

A combustion analyzer is a tool that measures what comes out of the exhaust on a fuel burning appliance. Think like the oxygen sensor in a car, it tells the computer what's coming out so it can adjust for optimum mileage and performance, except on a furnace the computer is the HVAC technician...

A manometer will get you close, but it should be set with a combustion analyzer to get the best efficiency out of it.

Professional installation usually gets you years of trouble free service, it also gets you someone to warranty the work. DIY is doable but dang them oil fired boilers are heavy, and they really should be setup with a combustion analyzer.

No it shouldn't get that hot, I'm not very familiar with high altitude settings for that kind of stuff but I have seen furnaces that were run too hot at 600 ft and in a short time it will burn a hole in the back of that first bend. Definatly want to have an HVAC tech come out there and set that...

Good question. With the power off the furnace won't run and therefore isn't producing condensation, so could there be some other source? Rain or snow coming in the exhaust pipe, a humidifier leaking where it shouldn't. Is the condensate pump sealed or if it were to be unplugged (electricly)...