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But how about a good cold chisel....it doesn't look like they offer one. I'd have sworn the ones i had were starrett but maybe not.

Probably looking at Tekton or Wilde.... What is a marlin spike?

Lol. I think you answered your own question how. You can only resharpen so many times. Also I think a lot of cold chisels may not be hardened all the way through, I feel like after you get so far into them the edge doesn't hold as well. I don't like my drifts not being straight and consistent...

I've kept my starrett center punches good but everything else is getting to the point of needing replacement. I'm not really up for $100 starrett set at the moment. Anybody have the astro set? seems too cheap for all that you get. Any good punch sets including a cold chisel and drift punches...

The hf titanium ( 140 I think) is shockingly excellent and butter smooth. A monkey could weld with one. It has limitations but it's a good at home machine and it's awesome for thinner stuff. That said if your idea is to learn, to really learn, you'll be light years ahead by taking a class at...

I'm sure it depends on how elaborate you're getting. Last slab I had done it was not even worth the fuel and half a day. Id have had to drive the equipment about 3 miles on secondary roads to use it ( not even far enough to bother loading it for me, its not mine but i have basically free access)...

Engineers drivers are great! But imo ...not those ones. They just aren't good enough to actually get the utility out of them they're designed for.

Let the concrete guys do it. Every time I've had something poured I considered doing the prep work....it never saved enough over the estimate to just let them do it so I've never bothered.

None of the ones in the pics are a whole lot better than the rest. The orangey handled ones are pretty bad as the rubber slips. The 22 pc set is not terrible for cheap screwdrivers. They tend to last about 6 months in the shop in acceptable tip condition, which starts at only marginally better...

What he said. Yeah they wear. Mostly from contaminants. Even wood is contaminated with silicon dioxide and aluminum oxide ( primary components of dirt) In any case carbide blades are sintered material, held together by a binder metal, usually cobalt or nickel, which is only about a 5 on the...

If I ever had one apart I'd probably use chain lube. That said ever since I did a lot of fiberglass work I treat them as disposable. A grinder that costs three times as much doesn't last three times as long. This goes for air or electric.

I just ordered one because of this thread.

Best bet is definitely to rebuild, you might have rebuilt them as easily as this repair honestly, or at least replaced the entire 2x as easily as scabbing in those pieces with the scarf. But, as suggested cable and turnbuckle would save it quite a while. Which I'd add even if rebuilt.

But it's even cute ,and matches the house,like a she-shed. 🤗

I'm in the middle of nowhere but the county requires permitting anything with a dimension over 12'. Of course, if there's no sleeping quarters then it doesn't fall into needing to meet criteria for occupancy.

I think the outsides are treated with a retarder so breaking it up kind of defeats that. That said I personally wouldn't feel uncomfortable mixing it in with blown.

Yeah, even when I use this type it's just to apply tension, then shock it loose with the hammer. For clarity of those who may not know, that means hitting the section where the spindle runs through on its side while there is tension, not banging on the spindle or any other part in the obvious...

If he doesn't like the smell the tools give off he might not like the smell of ballistol much better.

Sounds like it could be stainless, or could it be flexing too much to bite, or both. Could always just use a carbide ball.