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Red arrow shows where a chamfer can help spread stress. Yellow arrow shows why the radius ( or fillet) is important on the outside for the same reason. These are not locations where you want sharp angles to concentrate force. Also part of why many don't use a sharp hex but rather rounded corners.

High and low being relative of course. If it's a low pro fastener it's pretty much automatically in the low torque category. Fork caps are a good example. 30ftlb on a 35mm nut is very low. Moving up up a level we get into spanner nuts which make a good option when torque requirements are...

This is is why you won't normally find a chamferless socket meant for anything but low torque applications. Small screws and fork caps are typical intended use.

I mean that's one purpose but it doesn't explain why if a flat face is in demand it's difficult to deliver one. They could just skip a step. Seems to me though they need to employ a way to make the front edge stronger in order to deliver a flat face with acceptable durability. Otherwise...

It's not all concentrated on the edge but there's a higher concentration on the edge. Imagine the socket in profile like in the post right after mine. The spreading force exerted by the nut is going to be dissipated away from the contact area both up and down. In sort of a gradient. Now if...

Your line of questioning is absolutely correct. Here; You'll see that in fact they all start out as having been forged with a flat face. The chamfer is actually machined into it after the fact. It seems like some people here have a running theory that the manufacturers are just adding this...

Idk about your wiring question but I just got these installed on mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5L9RNX9/?tag=atomicindus08-20 I almost got the 150w version but I'm glad I didn't. They are BRIGHT. Each is pretty well equal to daylight condition for an area 70% the size of an infield and...

They do see plenty of tension. Particularly the corners at the tip. The nut imparts force in a way as to spread the socket end out during use. They're more likely to split along the axis from that tension than shear along the radius from torsion. To the OP. You can very easily demonstrate...

I'm a fan of my Capri master torx set. I would say they do fit better than the random kobalt and duralast ones and about equal to the random tool truck ones I have but I have pretty limited sizing outside Capri to compare brands.

That's more or less it. The bag though is a bit like a vacuum cleaner filter, so you then end up having to later back blow it so it still lets air out. That's where the mess comes in. Then it eventually just ends up clogged and you have to change it. I haven't tried to really wash one out and...

Yeah, takes about 6-7 seconds usually. You have to run the gun a bit on the light side on media feed or itll fill up portions of the hole without doing the job.

Black beauty. (Slag)

Spot blaster with hot spot recovery system.

I just shake it a bit while doing metallic lacquer. Not to say anything bad about any of those guns but I personally wouldn't use any of them. I'd use RP/HTE type gun. It's a lot easier to transition from conventional to RP but you still get far less waste and it lends itself better to what...

Uhh...that second part is you not me; "2018, I stripped and repainted a snow plow kit using the Majic brand implement paint and hardener from Rural King and it's held up very well." Anyway, I use it all the time, just saying I don't think it would do much in the primer.

I just found the title to my next ( and only) YouTube video.

Basically anything of decent quality is going to cost more than the ramps. That said you can't really buy ramps that I know of with a good coating. That said I'd probably get some two part urethane bedliner like a raptor kit. Use the rest for other stuff.

I use them daily so they get oily enough on their own. They usually only ever get wiped down. I got a new pair of snap on needle nose recently. It's interesting every time seeing them get "seasoned". My old slip joints sit beside them. Many tools do it but snappys in particular seem to flash...

Looks to me like a piston vise.

It's fine but I don't think you'll see a lot of benefit. The hardener I'm aware of that will work in Rust-Oleum products is Majic brand. In reality it works more akin to Japan drier than a true hardener. Without going crazy on explanation and my pseudoscience I'll just say I don't think you'd...