Search results

Tennsmith is great. I bought a JET because it was a little cheaper & similar quality. Don't forget about Baileigh. They have several different models & even a magnetic version that works pretty slick!

Quincy. I.R.

Midwest offset snips are the ones to get

I always just sandblast parts, but I've heard of people using muriatic acid or vinegar. Almost everything you rinse with water is going to flash rust. You could maybe try hitting everything with a torch to get the moisture out as fast as possible after rinsing.

I'd pay someone else to blast it before I'd ever blast inside (& I have the equipment to do it) You will have sand coming out of EVERYWHERE for years if you do it inside. Unless you live in a extremely "snooty" area, run it outside, blast it, run it back in. (unless you live very close to...

Get a strip of stainless steel. It will outlast the shovel

It looks like Sherwin Williams is preferred from what I've read. Is the Sherwin Williams from lowes the same quality as from an actual independent Sherwin Williams store?

Look into Solberg products

Thanks for that info. I'll look at it a little closer & see if it's been painted, or if that's the original finish. I'm hoping to paint it once with good materials & be done with it for a long time.

They all say that whatever they are selling is the best. I'm looking for answers from people that have used it & had good lasting results.

I have a like new, but used 16x7 metal garage door to install & it needs paint. I assume it's been painted already, but i'm not sure. The inside is white, but the outside is brown, so I figure it's been painted. What is the best brand of paint to use? It needs to be white again. I used...

^ He's right. You might get lucky & get a close match, but i'd just go to the local auto paint supplier with your paint code & have it mixed up there. If you use someone close, they will help you if you have a problem. Online companies don't know you once they have your money.

I'd go to a sheetmetal shop, or HVAC place & have them shear it for you. It only takes seconds to shear it & it might cost you less than having to buy a specific tool to do it. (& it will be a better cut than anything you could do yourself)

I don't promote harbor freight very often......but get the H.F. purple gun. If those old Binks guns need any parts to get them to work, it's not worth the cost to fix them compared to buying the 10 dollar HF gun

Welcome to the forum! Also from Wisconsin

I don't think i'd heat it. Pry the edge up just enough to get the panel off, clean it up & if it cracks upon re-assembly you would need to TIG weld the edge. We've done lots of alloy bodies, quite a few Ferrari's ,etc & never used heat for that.

I have always used PPG DX330, but any brand of automotive grade wax & grease remover should be fine.

Make sure all the fingers come with it & I'd try bending something with it before purchase. The Baileigh benders are pretty decent, but the older stuff is usually built better.

You definitely need a welder with a dial adjustment for voltage. The ones with 1,2,3,4 voltage adjustment are almost Always a little off. With the dial adjustment you can really dial it in to get a nice weld. TIG is great if you are able to make your parts fit very well before welding & you...

pneumatic cutoff tool with the 3" cutoff wheels. That's what 99% of bodyshops use & I use one every day.