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I understand where you're coming from, and definitely agree with your main point. I've been interested in the difference between how public companies operate in the US vs the rest of the world. Collectively, US public companies are about 40 per cent owned by foreign investors...

Yes, Toyota is a Japanese public company, based in Tokyo. But, it's unlikely that you or your 401k directly owns actual stock in Toyota. You, or your 401k, might own Toyota ADRs (American Depository Receipts), which trade on the NY stock exchange under the symbol 'TM'. Owning the ADRs is kind...

Tools, especially high end ones, are kind of personal choices. If it's something you know he wants, it would make a good gift. If it's not something you know he would choose himself, then something else would probably make a better gift.

I've never used anything but 18-8 stainless steel cotter pins on boat rigging, where there's lots of stainless hardware. But, I've seen lots of rusty cotter pins on car front ends, so I guess zinc-plated steel ones are pretty standard for automotive use. Plain (unplated) steel seems a really...

In general, you want to keep stainless fasteners away from regular carbon steel. They're too far apart on the 'galvanic series', meaning you're going to have corrosion problems wherever stainless and non-stainless steels contact each other.

It's some sort of phenolic plastic board. Trade names for phenolics include bakelite and micarta. Phenolic plastics need some sort of filler for strength. The filler can either be mixed in with the plastic (bakelite, etc) or laminated in layers (micarta, etc). At one time, asbestos was a...

+1 on Starrett's 1620 'Tool and Instrument Oil'. It's what goes on Starrett mikes and calipers at the factory. You'll find lots of other uses for it - It's pure light mineral oil without added solvents or other **** (and it sells for a lot less than Mitutoyo's equivalent).

I dunno. The Telsa model 3 (and probably other Teslas) have the charger port on the driver's side near the rear of the car, close to the tail lights. If you park the car 'nose in', then it would be more convenient to have the charging outlet on the side wall of the garage, rather than rear.

In a quick google search, the closest I found that's locally available (Amazon) in small quantities is an NTE part. Zettler AZ692-071-54: 12V, 330 Ohm coil, 10A max SPDT contacts. NTE R22-5D16-12: 12V, 270 Ohm coil, 16A max SPDT contacts. The Zettler and NTE parts seem to have the same pin...

Yeah, that's the only place I've seen them. You leave one of the two or three (bare copper) ground wires you're joining longer than the others so it comes in one side of the sleeve and exits the other, and connect that one's 'tail' to the ground screw on the receptacle. It's a nice clean way...

They're a style of uninsulated crimp connector for joining two or more wires. 310 and 311 are plain copper. 410 and 411 are zinc-plated steel. https://www.galco.com/techdoc/gb/10-411_cp.pdf

I've got a mix of QR and non-QR. If I was starting from scratch, I'd buy all or mostly QR ones. QR is a nice convenience, especially in 1/4 and 3/8 drive.

I keep a bunch of 2 x C cell traditional flashlights for power failures, including an older Maglite. They've all been converted to LED using cheap eBay Chinese bulbs. The LEDs are much brighter than the original bulbs, and 'C' batteries give seriously long run times compared to 'modern'...

The short answer is that battery chargers are designed to charge batteries, and not run motors. If you connect a battery to the charger and then connect the motor to the battery, it will probably work, depending on the size of the battery and the design of the charger. If you omit the battery...

Ones that light when the switch is 'off' are sometimes called 'indicator switches' to distinguish them from 'pilot light' switches that are illuminated when the switch is 'on'. Here's a basic indicator switch from Leviton intended for residential use: https://www.leviton.com/en/products/1461-lc

What's the voltage across the battery when you plug in the scooter to charge it?

My money's on 'Torx Plus', too. A standard torx driver sorta works in a torx plus fastener, but it will fit too loosely to drive it to full torque.

Yeah. Who doesn't have multiple boxes? Big 'home' toolkit. Decent sized portable dedicated kit for auto/boat work. Smaller basic kits that live long term in the car and on the boat. Portable dedicated kit for electronics. Hand box of basic woodworking hand tools. A few tools, like general use...

The Bosch 12V CLPK22 kit is $100 at both Lowes and Amazon. It's a PS31 drill + PS41 impact driver + 2 batteries + charger + soft case. I took one home - I needed a decent compact drill, and the package was too hard to resist at that price.

I'd buy from someone who actually manufactures twist drills. Norseman are very good. Made in the US. Snap-On or Matco or MAC don't actually make bits. You get whatever rebrand they're selling this month which may or may not be the same as the brand they sold last month.