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I contacted the regional sales rep for the brand of lift I had decided on. They set me up with a local installer who took care of everything short of the electrical work. I was fine to do that myself. It wouldn't have been a big deal to hire that part out though and I think that's pretty typical.

I went with the VLE10 for a few reasons, but one major factor was the narrow overall width. it also has a relatively narrow drive through clearance as a result so there is a trade off. That suited my situation well, but may be a major annoyance for those who need max door clearance getting in...

look a little closer, you'll see a bumper cover (2000 Civic) hanging from the ceiling at the far left, and below the EM1 wheels valve covers from a D16Z6, D16Y8 and F22Ax- but the Isuzu Oasis version which only had "16 VALVE" embossed on it #rarebutnotdesireable

The waiting is officially over. The vision fully realized. And, crucially funding from the "big pot" has ceased. :giggle: Installation of the 2-post lift was the final item on the project list that we were waiting on. That is now in place and in regular use! The installers did their part in...

I played around a lot with various layouts for my lift placement. once I had one I thought would work best I marked it out in tape on the floor and then set a floor jack in place of each post. then parked there every afternoon for a week or so to see how it would work out. As it turns out, the...

I would be very skeptical of any lift design that doesn't carry an ALI certification. Less so if it's a common design that happens not to have certification like a 2-post or scissor lift from a no-name offshore brand. They may be cutting corners, but still copying the basics from the guys who...

these are $400 new. I think you're looking at a deal as long as there is no other secret issues or something. I picked up four of the 24" depth version of this box a few years ago when they were on sale. I had to sort through what they had in stock like it was the lumber rack to find ones...

There are options available for mid-lift and low-clearance other than maxjax. Nothing against it specifically, but for the sake of the decision making process I would lump "a lift with a rise limit that prevents overhead contact" and "a lift that maximizes available overhead install clearance"...

have you priced these options yet? I would expect sc40 pipe to cost more than structural round tube with similar wall thickness. Is it a length availability issue? do you have these on hand already? both options you have listed would have similar material properties and cross-sections. I think...

I'm no lighting design expert, but I'll share what I've done. I had fixtures similar to yours for a while in my garage. I tried a few different LED Conversion tubes as replacements. I think out of 12 twin-tube fixtures, three of the LED replacements burned out sooner than a typical florescent...

I put one of the $50 HDX/Home Depot reels in the attached 2-car for light duty things like running a palm sander or other small tools. I'm like you, can't believe I have gone so long without one. It's extremely handy. But for the shop (detached 30x40) I came across the Flexzilla Pro for...

Thanks! Back on post #12 there is a photo of the fixture in the daylight. I don't recall off hand the spec on the bulb, BR or PAR. The reflector within the bulb is doing most of the work. The shade is only getting a fraction of the output to redirect. But you've got me thinking now... what...

I would agree most common residential garage door seals aren't great. Check out commercial/industrial stuff that's out there. what you're describing sounds similar. If you don't find exactly what you're wanting you can at least borrow some of their features to add to your idea.

Getting some use now out of the new building working on projects, doing some vehicle maintenance and a little troubleshooting here and there. I'm beginning to get a good feel for what layout works best and where to put some of the more permanent fixtures. This table served as the primary work...

Just thinking through the effect this would have and the desired result: a more comfortable interior air temperature? The cooling effect is on the roof structure itself through conduction to the water. The water either runs off the roof carrying the heat with it or it evaporates, or both. Now...

when we did ours back in the spring my grading contractor told me essentially the depth determines the longevity. I hope to replace the existing concrete drive and gravel extension with new concrete in 5-6 years. Because of that we went with 3-4" average depth of "crusher run" or "crush'n run"...

Task Oriented or "Job" specific- I tend to work most efficiently when tools specific to a job or task are grouped together. Most if not all of my soldering and electronics stuff is in a large tackle box or small parts storage near by. Home renovation and small wood working tools are in process...

My building is about half the volume of yours, but I have what you're describing in option 1 set up so far. I do have basic insulation all around including the 10x16ft drive door. I do see about 5-7° above ambient on a hot, sunny day. If I vent the building at full power it will bring that back...

It's a pretty good question I think. We put a lot of thought into getting the dimensions just right. The door is 16' wide by 10' tall. The lean-to porch runs the length of the 40' building and the concrete pad is 8' wide (deep?) The posts are set back a foot from the edge. I may have been...

I have been pretty busy since my last post, both with the shop project and the rest of life. So here is a quick rundown of progress: -Both exhaust fans are now installed permanently (not fed by extension cords...). -Added a hose outside, mostly for watering the potted plants and feeding the...