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Convenience for the storage lift is the nearest outlet. Convenience for mechanical work is near the most common mechanical work. For me that is the engine bay. I may need to go down to reach something from above, then up to reach from below, and so on. It is not a long walk to the back of...

I have Noco, JNC and Gooloo. I prefer Gooloo for the lithium packs, the GT4000 series. Noco buttons fail — on the jumpers and trickle chargers. I won’t buy another. JNC is great for the big lead acid packs.

I have a Leviton switch for my compressor and it works great. Maybe Leviton makes them in red since redundancy or “can’t miss it” seems to be a concern.

Fast seems like a priority for you and the Technivorm is fast and the coffee is good. Seems like the right machine for you. Again, having used one for a few years and having used many other machines over the last 40 years, I think it is overhyped, expensive and that the coffee really isn’t...

I have had one for a few years and think it is good, sturdy and simple, but unexceptional and not worth the $200. I have tried many coffee makers over the years. May go back to an expresso machine, but a higher end one like a Jura, Breville, De Longhi.

I was in the same position and ran the power and air to where I wanted the lift motor. Most of my hand tools are in my chests right in front of the lift and I have a wall to on the front left so I ran power and air high up on that wall.

Front left post. Any post could have worked but my ram is on the left side and my right runner can be moved to widen it narrow the runner spacing a little. Probably could swap runners and drill some new holes, but I actually like front left the most. 99.9% of the time I drive in forward and...

Or just plug it into a receptacle on the lift. The plug is a disconnect.

Post #10 looks good to me. The OP is making this simple project complicated. I agree the lower junction box on the wall might be better. Mine is below — no disconnect box but I could add one if zi wanted to. The coil at the top is to give a little play in case I need to move the lift a foot...

Use a template and use smaller diameter bit to pilot the holes. Even then, getting 6 perfect could be difficult.

The rapid air stuff is better than old school rubber hose in my opinion. I have had rubber air hoses rot in less than 5 years.

You and I read the same thing.

You have an easy disconnect now — yank the cord. I agree it is ugly and you could improve on the connection. The simple light switch style works fine. I have one of those for my compressor (with the correct rating for my compressor). If you need an outlet on your lift post, certainly add one...

Yes, please do and post some tips. Some disassembly required to get cell blocks out.

I have a 9AH that I would like to DIY rebuild. I bought 3 new batteries for the bad cell. Have other batteries so it is not a priority and if I screw it up, I am comfortable tossing it.

Bendpak HD-7W. I changed my order from that to the HD-9-XW but sort of wish I had stayed with the shorter one. It is about 2 feet shorter and it is totally OK to have a little overhang front and rear. 98% of my DIY is on cars that would fit the HD-7W, but I have had Chevy Suburban (134”...

No

I really like my M12 1/4 drive non fuel ratchet. I also have right angle 3/8 and stubby 3/8 impacts and 3/8 fuel M12 ratchet and m18 mid and high torque impacts. Each tool has its place and I use them all but the 1/4 non fuel gets a lot of use.

I have two bridge jacks on m HD-9 XW and it has never been bolted down.

Yes, it is too weak unless maybe it is a newer car and the bolts recently torqued or it has never seen rain or snow. Break them loose by hand and use the battery tool to spin them off or use extensions to get a more powerful wrench in there. The new 3/8 stubby with 5AH battery is pretty compact.