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Usually I just shove them back in with some silicone on them, I may look into the rolled stuff. I live on a REALLY windy mountain, and if those aren't in it blows water up the roof, and into the ridge. (It's a 6/12 pitch roof)

That works for inner panels, outer panels think ridge caps, roof to porch transitions etc are more of a problem. Even with a screw the cap, foam and into the rib and board underneath, they walk out.

Are there any alternatives to these? After a few years, it seems like several "walk out" and then expose whatever is underneath to weather. Has

I think this is what I am going to have to do for the amplifier and just disconnect it when testing the rest of the system. Just ***** having to lug a battery around.

Nope, read it and went and checked them out. That's one brand, and extremely pricey. I guess you just like to look for an argument.

Did anyone find anything? I used this, and after a few times, it blew something in the board (I can't find the culprit). I never had the stereo wide open, continuous power draw is only 55amps. But apparently the inrush on the capacitors is more than this could handle. (I didn't have the...

I'm accepting that liability, it's risk mitigation. I feel like the risk with a lug bolted to a busbar, in place of an existing lug is the least risky thing that can be done. They know the risk, I know the risk, but I also know that elderly folks dealing with kerosene isn't a good fix either...

And all you had to do was keep scrolling....

So wtf if there is??? It doesn't change a damn thing. Like I said choice A, burn kerosene with fumes and fire hazard that is, or B patch up this box to keep the heater running. And quite frankly its none of your damn business. I asked about a lug, one question and rather answer no it is not...

Man, I was really tempted to wire it directly to the 60s....through the sub panel lugs. But I thought no, No. 6 is only good for 55 amps, better not take the chance....and yet Im getting flamed for a lug...

One of the factory sub panel lugs is frozen up. So my plan is to remove and replace it. Then feed from the panel to a subpanel with breaker. Breaker will keep the heater and main panel components "safe", and everything still have the main 60 amp breaker for protection. Not ideal but best I...

Please resend that link!

A licensed electrician wouldn't touch this mess and for good reason. A licensed electrician would have to rewire the entire house. A house that has a flooded basement, rats, fleas, other critters etc living with the owner.

Ive seen two houses lost this uear due to wood fires. Like I said earlier, pick your poison.

3rd world country no, 3rd world situation in rural WV, Yes. If you or anyone in this thread would like to donate 2-3k to help them, please feel free, and we will install a new service. Also what are you proposing they do in the meantime waiting on the power company, with no electricity? Get...

And furthermore there is no need to post a picture. I have a workable solution, that is as safe as the entire situation will permit and I am moving forward with that. Thanks. I also showed a picture of a similar fuse box, and pointed out the lug...

After Mike suggested and gave me a link to a lug, which will work. And no you cannot get a lug "for" that box. Yea it is a modification....but i don't care lol. You guys would be screwed in a 3rd world country without your new stuff, codes, and UL listings.

I'm replacing a lug, with a lug....an actual UL Lug...

It's not for the same person.

I put in a request on 11/3 for disconnect to install a generator, and it is supposed to happen this Thursday on 12/4.