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Been away for a while, sorry. The house septic was really too far away to tie into and was not built to code when the house was constructed 20 years ago. We had a new septic field for the house and the septic system for the garage done at the same time.

a 3 inch recessed light should fit in there, I used one like this in a cherry soffit built above our kitchen sink: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=520454-43921-MQTL3001-LED6KAOW&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=50121571&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=rel&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 I like...

Nice looking garage and good job on ensuring you get a quality build. Your GC should be the one keeping the quality standard high during the build but in the end, its your garage and you will be the one living with it. I acted as the GC on my build and only had problems with the roofing subs...

Great thread! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Here is the center set of doors, no shelf so that I could place my roll cart there when not in use:

Next step was to measure up and fabricate some doors for the front of the workbench. I used 3/4 inch flooring underlayment (particle board) for the doors. This material is dead flat and will not move or warp. Once it is coated on all sides and edges, it will not absorb moisture. It is also...

Thanks. The workbench will match the cabinets. Stay tuned, I have to upload more pictures...

Thanks, everyone, for the nice comments. I have the dividers for the drawers but haven't installed them yet. I'll have to set up a drawer with the dividers and post a picture so that everyone can see just how customize-able these cabinets / drawers are. I have a 5 foot tall Stanley-Vidmar...

You have a great shop space. I enjoyed the tour!

Time for another long-overdue thread update. Here is insulation going up on the low-ceiling side. I knew I would be doing most of the drywall hanging solo so I bought a drywall screw gun. I also picked up a drywall-hoist at HF so that I could install the drywall by myself at my own...

Thanks. Thanks.

No extra holes to deal with and the cabinets themselves were dent-free. Several of the drawer faces were dented but were easy to flatten with a hammer and dolly. The hammerite paint on the drawer faces is thick enough to mask any slight ripple on the surface.

Here are the restored cabinets. The drawers now roll-out smoothly and are anchored to the wall. I am presently building a 14 foot workbench to the left of the cabinets

Here are the drawer fronts being sanded and painted with Hammerite silver-gray. The drawers now installed back in the cabinet after cleaning and lubricating the drawer slides:

Here are the two cabinets stacked in the corner.

After sanding and priming, both cabinets received two coats of rattle-can gray enamel.

About two years ago, I purchased a couple of tooling cabinets off of craigslist. They were in rough shape, a little surface rust, some dents and the drawers did not roll out smoothly. They were well built, similar in quality to Lista or Stanley Vidmar. The price was right, $100 for the pair...

I used a short-nap / mohair type roller with the hammerite paint on my tooling cabinet drawer fronts and garage cabinet doors. The roller helps maintain the hammered texture. Two coats works best. Try to keep whatever you are painting flat so that it doesn't run.

I had this done at my house about 5 years ago. A void underneath the front porch developed as the foundation backfill settled. We had a 6 to 8 inch gap underneath the slab which was stamped and colored. To break it out and replace would have cost about 3 to 4 times the cost of the...

wnstwolf, you must be referring to the 4' x 10' Hardie panels. I used 12 foot long by 8.25 inch wide hardie plank siding on my 30' x 44' 2 story garage with the gecko gauges. There is no way that carrying a 12' x 8.25" length of fiber-cement siding is a 2 to 3 man job. It is flimsy and...