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I've been using regular 5% vinegar for years. Works fine.

Go behind the glass store and look beside the dumpster. I've picked up lots of old single pane glass in aluminum frames. It's not hard to remove the frame, usually a single #6 Robertson on each end.

Mine was delivered today. Same bait and switch.

I like tapes the size of the komelon. Fat Max is too fat. This is for getting the tape in and out of my tool belt.

I'm confused. Are you talking about Canada West Boots? If not, then who? Maybe put in a link...

I ran ready rod from front to back on the inside of my box. I hang one hook to the rod and the other to the chain. The excess goes into a box underneath. Same with the ratchet straps.

I also ordered a black one. I noticed the 2 one star reviews said wrong item shipped. I guess we'll see...

Thanks.

I did similar using 2 shorter jumper cables. Anderson's on both ends of the winch end cable, and heavy duty clamps and Anderson's on the other. That way I'm not tied to one tow vehicle.

It just was what was available to me at the time. Plus I'm self taught so there is a lot of stuff I don't know. At the time I didn't know that 15G existed.

All my nailers are connected to air lines. I don't have a 15G nailer. But I do have framing nailers, coil siding nailers, roofing nailers, 16G nailers, 18G nailers, and a high end 23G nailer. I would be using the 23G nailer for trim as a first choice. Then the 18G. The reason is I don't have to...

In the last pic you posted before I answered, there is a bulge easily seen on the insulation. I would belt sand that bulge but no more than .75". Straighten as best as you can without compromising the r-value too much. And as far as the flashing, thinking back on it that was a wall that had the...

I think I would belt sand the high spots down .5" to .75" and go with it. Only you and a pro will ever see any bow. Also I've custom bent aluminum flashings to hide exactly what you're seeing.

Is it missing a center piece that might intersect that hole in the side?

You want to vent the inside working area? I would look at some type of heat exchanger similar to what they use in residential. The outgoing air warms up ( or cools it ) the incoming air. Then use a dehumidifier for removing moisture.

Be aware that some of them have orings not compatible with brakleen. This is mine with "viton" orings.

Yes, I believe " Pump and Spray " is the name of the one I use.

I have a tote for water. Up until this year I had it up on top of a trailer, about 16' up. That worked great for gravity feed. This year it's on the ground and I'm using a sprinkler pump to create pressure. I will have to add a filter like Olli suggests because I plan on using it for my pressure...

I use the short 3" tube and a rag in the air paint shaker for the spray cans. But making one strictly for spray cans is a good idea. Next time I have 20 minutes I'm making one. And my shaker is screwed into a 4x8x3/4" ply on sawhorses. Doesn't walk...

I have the Canadian version of harborfreights air operated paint shaker. It works.