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I've got one, like others have noted, it's a fine machine. Post flow is less of an issue than others make of it, and it works great in my garage! I built my welder cart for my SW200 and 210MP. I'm not anywhere in the same field as Jody or Paul but it works for me!

I use some 1/8" closed cell foam from Rammaat that's normally used for sound dampening in cars. It's available either in pieces that are self adhesive or non stick. It's soft so the tools slightly dimple the surface but it's black in color, and I'm pretty sure it's made in the USA!

Pretty awesome!

I've got one of the Honda crank pulley tools and use my IR2135 with no issues. I think I got the specialty tool from Amazon for under $50.

I use some stuff called Ensolite, its a closed cell 1/8" foam that will deform slightly from the weight of the tool. I buy it from Raammat from there site. Easy to cut with scissors or a razor knife and you can get some with an adhesive back or plain.

I have a Marson and at one point bought a HF mainly to do some 1/4-20 and it was junk. It broke on the second one and left me dead in the water until I could get the arbor for my Marson to come in. If I didn't have a good tool then the HF piece may not be that bad but it's a far cry from a good one.

I paid $1400 for mine in pretty good condition, though it's PJK and orange wasn't my first choice. I use at my home garage and think it's a great box for the money.

I have one of the SO T handle ratcheting screwdrivers and although I don't use it all the time it is handy when I do use it.

I second (or third) a Marson. At one point I misplaced my 1/4-20 arbor and bought a HF one and broke it on the first try. Horrible design and cheap materials. Get a quality one that will last.

Sweet build! I'll keep this in mind once I can snag a 211.

I've got an original PP mine doesn't have a positive or negative trigger as well as a PPIII that both work as expected. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend one to anyone getting into 12V electronics. I don't have any experience with the hook, but I would guess it works as expected.

Cool idea. I'll have to steal that if you don't mind!

My LWS said it would be in the second week of November. I'm anxious to see one and potentially buy one. I don't need a huge machine but I would like the ability to MIG and TIG in one machine.

I've got an original power probe as well as a power probe 3. The original is cool because it's a simple two light (12v/ground) but the think I like most is the thin probe. It's somehwere around the size of a mechanical pencil lead (likely .5mm) and it has an extra long one for harder to reach...

I would look into some sort of rhino lining or line x type of product to seal it all in together. I haven't done it and don't know if this would something I would DIY or pay a pro but at least if it's done correctly it should seal the entire surface in one piece.

Like skruft I've used an RV charger with an old battery or two for my test bench for years. I've got an 80 amp model that I used on my car when I competed and I use a 40 or 50 amp model for the test bench without any issues. I've tested an Xtant 1000 watt amp all the way down to a simple H/U...

I have a KRA and don't really think that I would be happier with a KRL, especially that they are about the same size. My KRA has only the one wide drawer where I wished it had two wide drawers.

I've got a PC7424 that I use most of the time and an older DW849 that I use if things are really bad. The PC will keep you from making any costly mistakes and there is plenty of knowledge to be gained on autogeek. Good luck with your search!

I thought the KRL's are deeper front to back than the KRA's. I could be wrong though.

Pretty awesome! I'm interested in how this turns out.