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I have a raised heel on my trusses. It is about 14" approx..in height. I am doing an r-38 cellulose blown in.

Ya im not sure about that. How big of a heater did you upgrade to? I have a 80000 btu mr.heater. I put it in this past fall. So far so gòod. 30x40x10 shop.

Posts..not poss

There hsve been many poss with the same issue. In some cases the boards are bad straight out of the box. Some people have contacted Mr. Heater and received new boards free of charge.

How old is the unit?

Some building codes call for a treated sill plate or also accept a foam sill gasket as well.

Im assuming they had some difficulty raising the walls and getting them to fit down on top of the j bolts. I know people install sleeve anchors after standing the walls to avoid fighting with lining the holes up. It can be difficult. Still very sloppy work. What is the wall height were the j...

LORDDiESEL.....where did you buy the table saw? How much if you dont mind me asking?

I agree with 38chevy454's method. I did my shed very similar to that layout. Make sure to have a support under the doorway. A row or 2 of blocking in between your floor joist helps to solidify and may cut back on your number of supports as well.

I have lugged many sheets of 1/2" plywood and many sheets of 5/8" osb and the osb is much heavier.

Only downfall imo is that osb is much heavier to handle than plywood.

I used 5/8" osb t&g on my roof. It was about 10$ cheaper than 1/2" plywood per sheet. 24" o.c trusses. T&g makes a much stronger roof and no messing with roof clips.

Thanx Dave*99. Ill check my manual. My heat exchanger has 10 yr warranty they claim but i want to avoid that if i can.

Dave*99. I have a LP Big Maxx 80000 btu. Im assuming mine falls under the same caution as your's?? I will check the manual this evening. I was wanting to keep it just above freezing.

Drywalling the ceiling on 24"o.c. is fine. Its commom here to do so. I am using a 1/2" non sag drywall from Lowes. It may sag but will be very minimal. Some will use 5/8" drywall instead if desired.

Just to clarify. You say you are insulating your ceiling joists while you wait for your baffles to come in. In between your rafters you are putting your baffles in first before insulating...correct?

If you have it figured out, then good. Like the old saying goes " there's more than one way to skin a cat".

Maybe i missed something...you want to use both rigid and fibreglass? You need an air space between your styro or fibreglass and your roof sheathing.

Use a strip of drywall measured to fit and glue in place. Light coat of mud and sand as normal prep.

If you notice the first pic of the thread it shows that the rafters do not go to a point, the ceiling goes flat at the collar ties. Between the flat zone and the roof sheathing will allow adequate air flow for roof vents or "whirly" vents just fine. It is NOT time consuming imo. Cut a hole, slip...