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Air powered dental drill with 1/16 diameter carbide burrs.

Perhaps a device for setting a large artillery piece, like a range finder or something. Used in conjunction with a scaling table or something.

Large tank ultrasonic cleaner would be my bet. Going to cost you some if you don’t have one.

Biggest reason for the certs is if you are an ISO or IATF shop supplying an auto manufacturer or similar. All of your gaging equipment has to have periodic calibrations done. Actually, the cost of that cert is cheaper at the manufacturer than sending it out to an independent calibration shop.

Be careful circle milling on an unknown machine. Sometimes the circle isn’t as round as needed. The transition from +- x y moves isn’t smooth. If you have one, I would just setup a boring head and bore the diameter.

If animal invasion is a worry consider Hardiie board siding as an upgrade.

Sssshhhhh! Who knows what code writer is reading this thread!

Might try a snubber across the start-stop coil https://www.newark.com/red-lion-controls/snub0000/cap-rc-network-0-1uf-47r-250vdc/dp/05R0282

This!! Have been looking for a spring-retractable spool of 2’ high x 16’ long screen that could be pulled across the bottom of the door opening to catch the leaves. Anybody ever seen anything like this? Yeah, I would have to step across it but I’ll live with that.

Just ran across this https://hackaday.com/2024/09/21/freecad-is-near-1-0/ Might be worth a look

Here is a picture of the compressor with the aftercooler mounted

Here’s my temps with a fan forced aftercooler. I went with a fan forced unit as my compressor runs pretty slow and the built in fan doesn’t move much air. I’ve got a water separator right after the cooler that drains on the floor below the tank. It makes a puddle that evaporates. If I am doing...

Does your door have those metal reinforcement pieces that keep the door from sagging in the middle when it’s raised? The one on the bottom panel on mine was just tall enough to barely trip the eye. You could see the light barely flicker as it went past the eye. I had to space the eye out a...

Might want to start with a good aftercooler to knock down most of the water before the tank. Then just a good desiccant dryer at the point of use. Also a Motorguard M26 works well for plasma cutting or M60 for painting

For a time, robogrips were the ultimate Christmas Birthday Fathers Day gift. I’ve still got my unused set that I just can’t part with because of this.

These guys used to be go-to for surge suppression. Very industrial strength stuff. Not sure they do it much anymore. They know their chit about signal conditioning. Every wonder why TV and radio stations can stay on the air during electrical storms? Those towers get direct hits all the time...

The automatic separator on mine gave up after about 6 months or so due to vibration. I gutted it and just hooked up a needle valve with a drain tube and it just bleeds a bit of air with the water out every cycle. Much simpler.

Ditch the POR 15 if you want a final smooth finish. After cleaning, preferably by abrasive blasting quickly cover with epoxy primer (southern polyurethane is very good stuff) before flash rust starts. Then in severely pitted areas go over it with All Metal. Sand this down and re-coat with epoxy...

I’ll second the Eaton compressor. Good value for the money. I have a 5 HP single phase version and it keeps up with all single user requirements like blast cabinets and DA’s.

Your compressor appears to have a magnetic starter. If so, it is easy to wire in to the circuit that activated magnetic coil which is typically only 110V with an home automation type of remote switchable outlet. This is low amperage (<15 amp).