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The hole in the pedal and bolt shaft are a snug fit plus the back of the pedal surface is flat. basically push the bolt in until it bottoms and it's the correct angle. The master cylinder rod has movement as well. Hopefully the bushing makes it I'm sure that would be fun reproducing.

So I removed the factory shaft which was basically a press fit stamped on the back side. A 1/2" grade 8 bolt shank fit with minimum clearancing and fits the eyelet with a few thou. of clearance. I cut it to length and drilled a hole for the pin. I also found a thick grade 8 washer for the inside...

I did a little measuring today and the hole the pin goes into is right under 1/2". .493ish so I grabbed a 1/2' bolt with a shaft and it slides in nicely with a small amount of play which is needed it don't bind. I will probably cut the bolt down and leave the head on the other side and weld...

I'm going to take some measurements of the opposite end the stud going into. and see if that idea is doable. I would prefer to have it made one piece though.

What it loos like on the pedal.

Here is similar to what I need however the thread side will be smooth and straight so it can be welded in. I will get exact diameter but it's around 1/2" on both sides. The hex part can be round as well.

Anyone here got a lathe and might be willing to make a small steel post for a clutch pedal? It should not be very complicated for someone that knows machinery. I can supply phot's and dimensions.

Anyone here save with reading load rating on truss plans trying to figure out what real weights my trusses will take and the company that made them is out of business. They originally told Standard load rating but whats that mean? Here is a copy of the plans if anyone can spell them out for me...

Yes both 20 and 30 amp breakers have the built in white pig tail going to the bus with the neutral from the main panel. Both breaker have a third lug for neutrals but it only shows one of them getting the neutral from the spa. I believe the 30amp runs the heater and the 20amp runs the pumps and...

Ok so once I got to the tub today it did require a neutral so I ran 6/3 from the main panel to the 20/30 spa box. This 20/30 is a bit different than I have dealt with before big wire in and 10/12ga. to the spa. One thing I'm unsure of the is the specs show the two Gfci breaker but only one gets...

I believe the 2030 box has a Gfci breaker that came with the tub and it will be 5' away from the tub on a close wall. I looked at the spec sheet and don"t recall it stating a 3 wire but I will be at it tomorrow to verify. Worst case I run 6/3 Romex then a extra #6 wire for the neutral in the...

So I have a Hot tub to wire up it's a 50amp unit. it has to run up and down the walls and across a small attic into a 2030 box on the wall near the tub. I planned on running 6/2 Romex thru the attic and walls for an easier install Vs conduit but once outside I will run conduit into the tub from...

I'm getting ready to connect my 7.5hp single phase compressor with Mag starter up but not sure on the whip wire sizing. My compressor has a start up of 64amp running amp of 35 and recommended breaker size of 50amp. I ran #6 Romex to the disconnect will a whip with #8 THHN work or will I need to...

My main goal is to put something under the tire equipment to prevent it from scratching the floor. It's in a large detached garage. Recommendations? I need about 4-5'x10'.

Well I was thinking a rubber gym type tile. I plan to use it under my heavy equipment and maybe in front of my work bench just to protect the epoxy floor. It might see some exposure to basic garage chemicals. Will the rubber not hold up?

I would prefer the look of tiles better than a stall mat.

What’s a good floor rubber tile that not overly pricey? I have a epoxy floor and what to do some tiles under my tire machines for looks and to protect the floor. I need ones that have end caps also.

So I think I'm going to run 2-18k heads off one 3 ton unit and get a second single zone unit to run the 12K upstairs. It's cheaper that way instead of getting a 4 ton unit and run them all. Also it doesn't get real cold down the shore area maybe once a year might see single digits but mostly in...

I had a 18K head in my last garage which was 25x30' with a flat 9' ceiling on one side and a 12' valued on the other side. That unit did amazing in there you could raise the temp 30 degrees in 30 min. That was a Daikin unit like 20 seer and 12 on the heat side.

I forgot to add it will be drywalled as well. I'm doing a 12K unit in the attic space which is 600sqft with 7' ceilings. If You go by Mitsubishi's guidelines I need 4.25 tons on the lower level and 1.5 upstairs. 6 tons seems like a whole lot!