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I grew up in Kansas City - Clark Tool is a legit company. Just a small local tool shop.

I’d manually open your door before you disassemble it and get on a ladder to see where the door is at its highest point during opening. Measure that distance to the top of the track and add an inch or two for safety then set it at that measurement when you move it. One other thing to check is...

That first quote in the op I haven’t seen an answer for, how are you attaching the electrical boxes to the posts? I feel weird drilling into them but not sure if that’s standard.

I’m in Pittsburg and I have the Derek weaver 2 post baseplate lift if you want to check it out. Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Why not 12'? I'd go 12' and not look back. I have a lift in my garage (garage was already built when I bought the house) and the ceiling is 9'3", I can't imagine building new and staying with 10'

I'll have to look for that post, I've thought about doing that. I don't have the ceiling height for an overhead at all so I was absolutely limited to floorplate. If you can fit an overhead, even with some extra work, you'll be glad you did every time you don't have to roll something over the hump.

I have a non certified Derek Weaver baseplate lift and I have no issues with it nor do I feel weird working under it. My grandpa has a certified Challenger overhead lift and I feel my derek weaver is much more stout. However, I would prefer the overhead lift in general just because it's...

The nest has an option to recognize this problem and correct for it. I bet the ecobee has something similar.

I'm in!

My crawlspace is currently vented, with regular dirt floors and cmu foundation. I'd love to seal it all off and essentially turn it into a conditioned space. My question is how critical is the vapor barrier on the ground? I only ask this because my crawl is about 18" tall and it would be a...

Just stumbled back on this thread and wanted to answer the questions and give an update. As far as the baseplate being in the way, I mean it's no big deal. Obviously if you have the height get an overhead but I really don't mind having it. The lift I bought is 'super-symetric' meaning that the...

Look like you have pretty standard trusses. The end truss is shorter so you can build an overhang.

The max lift height of the MaxJax is 48" so the car under would have to be shorter than that by quite a lot because the tires on the car above will be hanging below that 48" height. I have a full height lift and I still don't think I could stack 2 cars in a 10' ceiling. I'd guess you'd...

This is the switch that would be wired to power and to the light: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/?tag=atomicindus08-20 This is the remote: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXOE8/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and this is the bracket to mount the remote on the wall if you'd like...

I use a lutron caseta switch. They make dimmable and non dimmable kind, and either one can be used with what they call the 'pico' remote. The remote can be handheld or can be mounted on the wall with a cover plate like a real switch but it's completely wireless. It can also be controlled by an...

I'd cut 2 foot off the right side, put an 18' door in there and then you can put the lift mostly to the right and still get another car in the left side. If the door being off center will bother you, you could put a window or a man door on the left of the door.

I have the same Porter Cable compressor you mentioned. It works fine, never used the other one though. Also, get battery tools. I still use a compressor often enough to justify having it but I've replaced almost all my air tools with battery and will not go back.

I use an app on my phone called AutoCare, it works fantastic for me tracking our personal vehicles. I even made a 'vehicle' called my house to track filter changes in the AC, different repairs, etc. I see no reason why you can't track each piece of equipment through that app. Edit: I have the...

I have a nest and I like it, as far as I can tell the Nest won't let the AC come on for just a minute or two then shut off. So if you change it to a lower temperature then change it back it's going to run for awhile just so it's not short cycling. As far as the estimated time thing, I'm not sure...

Thank you for clarifying that, this stuff at Locke is in fact USE-2/RHH/RHW-2. So if I understand correctly when it has all three ratings I can run it indoors so long as it's in conduit to the panel?