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Looked for the first active relevant thread to post my new setup in. I vote commonly used tools out.

Hello, I was looking for a set of long torx and hex(mm) bits for impact driver use and all i can really find are chinese bits with a made up brand. I was hoping for wera bondhus etc. Also who make the toughest 1/2" drive torx bits? The cheap ones break far too easy. Thanks,

Wow, wonder how much of this is due to tariffs catching up to us and covid, vs greed. Since HF has no shareholders i have to imagine that most of this is due to passing costs along to the consumer. Either way i'd imagine sales will be down proportionally to the increase in cost. The stuff isnt...

I guess the tldr about Fowler is they are more of a brand than a manufacturer.

Saw quite a bit of praise for Fowler, but I am almost positive that the budget level from Fowler is identical to HF, at least with the dial calipers. My work ordered me a set, I think they were $30-50 bucks, and had at 3 defects and the rack motion was gritty, they looked identical to the harbor...

I do not disagree, I was just offering a reasoned counterpoint to the "anything less than r38 is ineffective comment" all insulation is effective. My dad's current shop is a 40x60x12 that is so over insulated, that he can cool it in the summer to 70 with a cheapie like 8k btu window unit...

I'd go with two single doors as well, usually ends up looking classier. If not 16' is the minimum two car garage door size, you shouldn't settle for that.

R38 is great for your house at 70 all winter or a full time heated shop. But for a homegamer, any insulation is a great and useful improvent over none. Just sheeting the ceiling will make the space habitable with a heater, insulation thickness is cost/benefit ratio that's how the code amount is...

Cut one rafter, double it's neighbors, add a large attic access, sheet top of rafters in areas you want storage, hang whatever thickness of insulation will file with vapor barrier towards conditioned space, sheet ceilings. I think plywood/OSB is a superior choice for a garage or shop. You can...

Caulk, 2 coats if you need to. Then have a beer and enjoy the day you saved trying to make it perfect. Seriously thought if you use a good tool to smooth it or even just a damp sponge, a good caulk job is more than good enough for paint grade. I'm serious about the 2 coats, it does shrink. All...

Can also be done with a spot infrared thermometer, might actually be preferable, because with the camera, it's hard to tell exactly where you are looking, I guess you could have a helper mark it for you, but I think a spot infrared thermometer to mark your estimated lines, then you have to...

I can recommend these, I also have gearwrench combination, flex in SAE. I would say that fit and finish is much better on the tekton, new gearwrench ratchet wrenches come from China now, or at least the ones in the store do. Neither set have let me down yet. The reason I got the double box end...

Damp rid, the stuff for closets works better than rice and is the easiest way to get a large amount of desicant.

You may also consider using a variable frequency drive to take your single phase and convert it to 3ph. Generally good new vfd's are very expensive, more so than a good new or used single phase motor. But used industrial grade vfd's can be cheap, just remember that if the vfd is not rated for...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P90NCY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

2ndgearrubber it's funny that you mention working on removing the O2 sensor connector from a hot cat, as that was the most recent job that I was thinking about when looking at this type of tool. I think the locking cable type would be the most useful, but $109 dollars is a bit steep, I will...

If you aren't changing it all the time ala racing. Or doing it professionally, I don't think you can beat the string mounted to jackstands, method. The first time I did it, it turned out perfect, took less than an hour, and my cars track width varies significantly front to rear so it took extra...

Thanks! Sounds like you prefer using hose grip pliers in this application?

In the new tool arrival thread, someone posted about getting some connector pliers it looks like the brand was "merry". Any other brands to look at? Also these are intended to depress the release tab and pull the connector out? Is that right, just curious, because the pliers don't look that...

Sounds like a 490 would meet your needs, but hard to beat the bang/buck on the 590. I have both, as well as a cs 370 and a Stihl 193t, the only one that seems cheap is the Stihl.