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Hey guys and gals... Looking forward to actually working on my house (yeah, I'll believe it when I see it, too), and I note the painted brick is peeling in a lot of areas (especially down near the ground), and is in overall poor shape. I'm thinking it would be best to strip it? Is that...

Got a little more work done on the Jeep. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/the-continuing-saga-of-bills-89-grand-wagoneer.547668/#post-11241983

Pulled springs! Read the rest on my build: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/the-continuing-saga-of-bills-89-grand-wagoneer.547668/#post-11229279

The trouble is, frequently the spot which opens leads to a catastrophic tearing of the tank. Think of it like a potato chip bag: very strong as a whole, but once you get a spot to let loose, it will rip very easily (sometimes throwing your chips everywhere in the process!).

No, but it sits on the other side of a block wall with a large tool box in front of the wall on the garage side. And while the blocks don't stop the damage, they do remove a significant amount of energy.

Not unless I'm going in to drain any water from it. I know it can happen. It's more likely to go off (if it's going to go off) while running (gaining pressure while also being vibrated). It's around 15 years old, and I will be replacing it in the next year or two, but it's never had significant...

There is a reason other than mere noise my compressor is in a side room off my garage. Yes, I go in there on occasion (it's also a storage area), but most of the time it sits in there all by its lonesome. Also, I do not go in while it's running.

What screwdriver and wrench racks are those?

Oops... my belt sander isn't Vevor, it's Wen.

I have a Vevor cast-steel anvil (nice bounce, so far, so good), and a 6" belt sander. I haven't used the belt sander, but it seems to be decent quality.

Right, that's what I said... FFS.

Thank you. I got the size 18 to service so I might learn how to work on watches (the size makes it a lot easier). The 16s is running and accurate.

Thank you. That's a size 12s. I also have an 16s Elgin B.W. Raymond railroad grade, and a 16s Zenith Chronometer grade.

Here ya go... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CW33JB?tag=atomicindus08-20

Tuna cans. Purchased the lids off Amazon. We use a can opener which doesn't leave a sharp edge. Cans are lined, won't rust easily, and the lids fit nicely. Great for storing small parts, and as we give the cats a bit of tuna each night (two cats get meds in theirs), we get new cans regularly.

@manwithtools @billconner @Hooked @theoldwizard1 @CraigStu @Innovate1 @carlaisle @readhead @C-S-H @PCustoms After giving it some thought, I suppose there's nothing wrong with having the beam under the ceiling joists. I can even put a column or two in the middle for support. The totally open...

Well, I figured it was worth asking about. Thanks for the info, looks like the LVL beam is still the way to go!

As is ain't an option. Too much wasted space. Putting the beam on top of the ceiling joists will work fine. I don't like it, but... Thanks!

No, no place for a column. And I'll either have to flush the beam (as I described) or put the beam on top. The space marked out as 17'1 3/4" (in the middle) is where the beam would span. So, how did the original builder get away with the 4-1/2' to 5' span where they just overlapped the...

To see how it was supported originally? I would think that would tell on how it needs to be supported now. But hey, I'm a writer, a former mechanic, and a former tools truck owner, not a home builder or an engineer!