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Made a slip roller a long time ago, then needed a bead roller. Since I didn't have a lot of space, I decided to stack them. I could have made a transmission or something so that they both don't spin together, but was too lazy. The bottom is kicked out like that to clear the concrete garage wall...

Very crazy, I'm only used to 12V on cars!

One thing that confused me was that there was 120V on A1 and on A2, even with the switch off or physically removed from the wiring. And if IIRC, even when I had no wires coming from the pressure switch. But, A1 to A2 did not equal 240V, it equaled 0V. If I knew how to read the included...

Well, got it all wired up and it wouldn't work! So I reversed J Burgess' last drawing so that L2 was jumpered to A2 and L1 had a tap going to the P switch and light switch, and it worked. Not really sure why, but who cares!

Gotcha, thanks again.

That's pretty much what the screws look like, picture of the unit can be seen in the PDF linked earlier. I didn't know if I needed an enclosure or not, so I will just mount it and the switch to the wall. My cold is finally going away so hope to get it done this week, still have a new computer...

Thanks Aceman, Would it help if the wall switch was 30A rated? And does it matter if the switch is ahead or behind the pressure switch?

On page 6 of the pdf, what are top only, bottom only, and top/bottom?

It's on a 30A circuit, with #8 conductor and #10 ground from the plug to the compressor. Don't know what's in the conduit, electrician did that. Just looked back at the pdf link earlier in this thread, pg 5, looks like it gives max sizes for the main and control circuits. Two #10 max for the...

I believe that is what J Burgess' red lines in my picture shows. The pressure switch is just tapped off the L1/L2 source. Do I need to splice the wires or can I just cinch down the tap wire in the L1/L2 terminals (screw in, clamp down type)?

I went through an old bookmarked thread and found the following, which (seems to me) matches JBurgess drawing on the right. "Any way, in a compressor application the contactor coil is wired in series with the pressure switch. One side to the pressure switch line terminal ( from an allways hot...

I think so, it would probably make more sense if I was in front of it instead of at the computer. Again, thanks for your patience in helping me out!

Thanks for the quick reply! This is what I'm not getting. Are A1/A2 on the pressure switch side connected? I guess I can confirm with a DMM. It sounds like I should be bringing one phase to each side of the pressure switch outputs (Motor). And I am NOT bringing L1/L2 to the formerly used...

Thanks everyone, for your help!

So I would not use A1 at all? Interesting...why does A1 need to be connected to L1 then? Or do you mean that is the pressure switching aspect of it? Also, does this mean I will have 240V on A1? And when I close the switch, it completes the circuit and allows the contactor to switch?

This is another part I'm confused on, the coil is 220V and I thought the single 120V line to trigger it wouldn't work. I realized this when I opened the box and wondered whether I should have gotten the 120V contactor?

Basically, I don't use it every day. So I don't mind the couple of minutes to fill it up when I do need it. Also, I hate when it runs in the middle of the nite.

Hi all, I finally got around to getting a contactor for my air compressor. The primary reason was to be able to use a wall switch to turn it on and off as the compressor is mounted in a closet. Compressor is a Husky 60gal 230V. Previous thread...

Thanks everyone, I'm gonna get a contactor. Probably from autmationdirect since it's 1/3 the price of mcmaster. Probably being **** retentive here, but since my compressor is 3.2hp, do I get a contactor that's 3hp or the next size up which was 5hp?

Thanks everyone, Is it easier and/or cheaper to use a contactor rather than a mag starter? I don't fully grasp the relationship between the pressure switch and the contactor/relay. If I wire a switch or contactor ahead of the pressure switch, doesn't current still flow through it when...