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Maybe fur out the stem wall at the base and use traditional baseboard?

Likely never going to be able to make it match. As others said, you’re likely stuck doing the whole thing.

In my opinion, In floor heat > gas/propane forced air unit heater > anything else

Use a 2x6 exterior wall and fur it out with 2x3s on edge. Puts you at 8”. Pour a 6” wall and 2” foam. Dense pack cellulose for insulation. Nice thermal break and comes out to like R28 walls at worst.

This is misleading as it is entirely dependent upon climate. I would do as suggested, but use a ripped piece of 7/16 osb. This is my assembly on my cathedral roof trusses, inside to out: Latex paint (vapor retarder) Drywall Intello smart vapor barrier (northern Minnesota, warm side vapor...

Flat bottomed gable trusses are designed to be used with flat ceiling “standard” trusses, where the ceiling drywall and roof sheathing brace the roof assembly. When you mix and match scissor trusses with flat bottomed gable ends, you end up with issues…

Regardless of what you do it seems like you’d end up with a hinge point. The correct way to do gable ends with scissor trusses is either get a scissor gable and balloon frame to the bottom of it, such that all bracing is in the plane of the ceiling or above, or balloon frame the entire wall. I...

Here’s an article from Mitek on this exact issue.. standard gable end trusses specify your exact bracing situation and this was a miss on whoever ordered/framed your building...

Can’t tell if that’s sarcasm, or “why are you doing this you idiot”. I’m just going to run my mains through the doorway and beef it up with some extra rebar in both directions.

No worries. I looked through uponor’s diagrams and details and although very helpful, did not have one for crossing load bearing footings. Minnesota exterior footings are relatively quite deep (42” zone 6, 60” zone 7). This is why most people in the north have basements (if you have to dig 60”...

For those of you with radiant floors in your basements and interior bearing walls, how do you get around the interior bearing wall footings? We’re building an L-shaped lake home, and the connection between the two legs of the “L” is bearing, thus will need a footing. I’m in the process of...

Not sure how it’s undesirable for storage when you can’t beat the associated cost/sqft when building a new building…

Expanding foam

I would still do an 1/8”/10’. Center sloped this would give you half an inch of fall in either direction. Half an inch over 40 feet isn’t going to be noticeable.

If any slope, 1/8 will look a bit better… 1/4’’/10’ over 80 feet is 2”.

We specify press fittings or soldered for all of our heating water, chilled water, and domestic water piping systems smaller than 3”. Contractors typically go for the press simply because of the labor savings. Whether or not press systems will have the longevity or meet the advertised life span...

You went on a long tangent here, but a 6” Home Depot round will easily do 100 cfm if you don’t put a bunch of garbage flex duct somewhere in the run. A decently manufactured 6” round that is “average” in smoothness can easily do 100 cfm at less than .08” h2o / 100’ of duct. For a 10’ straight...

I’m just really shocked that you’re getting that kind of runtime (heat loss) with only a 50 degree delta. My parents in the suburbs of Minneapolis have a 120k 80% furnace that’s pushing 20 years and they see maybe 50% runtime even on our coldest windy days.

I would personally put in two units at 60k. When you mess with the ACH, what heating output does it give when the ACH makes the cooling load equal to your existing unit size, if that makes sense

I really doubt the savings between a 2.5 ton and 3 ton AC are worth it on the off chance you get a hotter than design day and you’re stuck in an 85 degree house for the entire evening. We’ve rented for the past 5 months while our house is being built and the engineer who designed our building...