Search results

- at SP(b) no EGC in the MHF, just 2 hots & neutral .that neutral bonded to GEC & rod, along with all branch neutrals & ends - based on the trench of the new gas line to the new tankless water heater, its likely they comprised the MHF feeder to SP(b). 95% of the time its just LED shop lights...

Again i guess I was really hoping on the theory and principle of this . I know its not right, unsafe.

I converted my v7 to dewalt with an adapter from amazon

I know its a problem, im interested more so on "how the heck its working this way" and why any electrician would've even considered leaving it working this way.

I cant get them. But like I said, at the detached garage subpanel(b) the mhf- 1 leg is hot and landed, 1 is taped and isolated. The neutral is landed on the common ground buss with #6 EGC. Ive got full current flow on the #6, matching the hot leg. *no current flow on the neutral because its open

I'v had great luck with sonoff paired switches. Switch in the house is 3way with one in the detached garage. I married flood lights on the back of the house with side of the garage.

Forgot to mention, I put a locator on the open conductor and neutral conductor from subpanel(b) it crosses paths with a new gas line for a new hot water heater. I didnt dig in those locations, but I did find a single #2 coming from the dirt into the attached garage coming from the source...

So im trying to help my GrandMother & Mom with a subpanel(b) issue in a detached garage. They mentioned the golf cart stopped charging after sometime recently but cant pinpoint exactly when. Everything is 110 in this garage. And all the lights work. Im thinking it is a result of recently...

good thinkin. I didnt even consider the 45min drain on a 7day manual timer. thanx

Has anyone found an auto tank drain that only purges once a week?. every 45min is crazy

Yes this is exactly what im asking . My ask regarding single or double rails is my bad, My build is a steel tube building

No, i need a real measurement of the wall width + door at the jamp. Ideally both a double rail + roll up & single rail + panel door

Can I get some help on the site , I need some pics of the measured opening (depth) for a garage panel door on a single base rail vs depth of a rollup on a double base rail I'm trying to get total finished depth of these two

@larry4406 Beautiful

mm08822 you've been most helpful. im not the pro, but I thought I did know - rigid, EMT, ENT and MC are all conduits. I was just trying to get back on topic instead of semantics

i hear yall, but "conduit" is any tube or passage that protects the wires. all of them are conduit. but respecting the tradesman, conduit = EMT . roger that/

I think my reason for the trough is the circuits on that wall i can EMT down that wall. My panel will be flush mount, so I won't be able to , i suppose i could "flush" it out another 1-1.5" to allow it. But wont all the factory KO's give me problems if i try to knockout for the PVC hubs?

Yeah PVC (sch40 grey) is the plan for in slab, roughed @ 20" above concrete and finished to 16" into 4x4 / tough @ panel. My bad if "conduit" is EMT, I thought it was PVC. But yes, I'll transition to EMT & MC from my 4x4(some extended to increase allowable fill. No I only have generic...

So my shop electrical plan is a 100A sub fed with 1.5" thru my slab. I'll also have atleast 4 - 1" sch40 back into slab going to determined locations on each of the 4walls. These will be the main feeds for those walls into a JB that I'll go to EMT or MC for which ever circuit. I'm thinking...