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Is the rule generally when there is water present (electrolyte)? I have seen water cooling setups where someone combined an aluminum radiator with a copper heat sink and it didn't end well.

The regulator is a filter/regulator combination. There is a ball valve on the tank but then nothing between it and the regulator.

I'm planning to install copper air line in my garage this weekend and considering the cost of some of these materials, I want to make sure I get it right the first time. This is my first mixed metal plumbing so I want to make sure I'm paying attention to which metals have direct contact with...

Correction: the tank output is 1/2”NPT. I have no idea how I got 3/4” in my head. I have 8awg wire running from a 40A breaker to a junction box. From there it’s going to be direct-wired to the compressor PS using flex conduit. I’ve hit a snag: The PS doesn’t leave a lot of room for wiring...

My compressor has a 3/4" output but I'm doubting I need that much flow. Would there be any reason not to adapt down to a 1/2" regulator and go 1/2" from there? I don't currently have any extremely high-flow tools (i.e. pressure blaster, DA)

I'm trying to figure out why Quincy would say not to use isolators. Not picking on you Lotek as I've seen this mentioned a couple times elsewhere. Why would you not want to dampen the vibration from a reciprocating pump? I imagine it cuts down on noise and gives the legs of the tank a little...

That's what I thought too but then I found this in the manual:

In my application, being 20ft from the main panel of the home, how necessary is the disconnect? I can't remember exactly but I believe it's 50ft to the box before something like that is needed?

Appreciate the pic. Is that a Rapidair air line setup? How was the install?

Great info as always guys. I'm leaning toward hard wiring due to the cost of rubber cord these days. In the future, could I run another wall box and have an outlet as well. Here's my extremely crude drawing:

I just purchased a Quincy QT-54 and am in the process of getting its new home prepped for installation. I have 8 THHN pulled through 1/2" EMT going to a 40A breaker. Total wiring length is about 25ft (to the main panel). This should be more than enough for the 21A Baldor as far as I can...

I am about to install a pair of 20A circuits in my garage. Each with terminate to a single device; one down line of the other. I will be using EMT and steel wall boxes. For the first 20ft of the run, the EMT will contain both sets of conductors as well as a single ECG. All wire is 12AWG. I...

Just for fun, I thought I'd check out the actual CFM output of the little Ingersoll last night. Advertised flow: 5.2CFM @ 90psi (I have seen some etailers list 5.5CFM but the manufacturer shows 5.2CFM) Observed flow: 6.80CFM Method: Cut In Pressure: 100psi Cut Out Pressure: 132psi Tank Size...

I'm with you there. My first compressor was a bargain bin pancake setup that was so obnoxious the wife even started commenting about it. As long as I never have to endure that again (the compressor) then I'm happy I guess.

Both of those look pretty good. I did chuckle a little at the CH's claim of "low noise 87dB". Definitely a lot of punch in a small package though.

I'll have to check out it's actual CFM later on to see how it stacks up against its claimed 5.2CFM. While the CFM rating is not going to knock anyone out of their chair, it was one of the few models in this class, locally available, which had a high duty cycle. I looked at the Central...

Lots of great information here. I either have an answer or a good place to start for all of my questions. Much appreciated! Right now I'm hoping to run a 3/8" ratchet, air hammer, and possibly a 3/8 impact. For 1/2" I have the Milwaukee cordless which does quite well for itself. I'm lucky in...

I've been in the process of getting my garage set up do projects in. I just bought an Ingersoll Rand compressor with the hopes of being able to run some air tools in the near future. I chose this particular model...