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That is an awesome wood shed!

These folks make very good clamps. https://boostproductsusa.com/

When I started as an apprentice mechanic in the mid ‘70’s, several of the older mechanics recommended I buy SK. Less expensive the Snap-On or Mac. A lot of the guys in the shop had SK tools back then. SK was well respected and a a solid value back then.

Search “machinery rollers”. I’ve used these to move large building electrical gear and transformers, industrial machinery, and the like. Might be a bit spendy for a home shop though. I have a couple of cheap furniture dollies that work for a lot of garage items.

I’m not buying SK tools now, because the ones I bought in the mid ‘70’s are still working just fine. Seriously!

Good suggestions from others. Whatever you wind up doing, make sure you have a vapor barrier between the concrete and the drywall, or the drywall will get soggy.

If it’s ‘83, probably not asbestos. You could always scrape a small piece off and have it tested ant a lab. Another option is overlay it with 1/4” drywall. Yes, you’ll have to tape the new drywall.

Get a piece of 3/4" plywood, sized so you can nail it to the forms. Draw an X in center of bolts, then markout each bolt. Use a nut and washer top and bottom to secure anchor bolts to the plywood. On long heavy bolt, we'd use two pieces of plywood or 2x material to make sure the bolts won't get...

Build anchor bolt templates from plywood, 2x4’s etc; pour around the bolts. Use tin foil to cover the threads on the bolts so they don’t get gummed up with concrete.

Drainage behind the wall is the biggest thing here. Most retaining wall failures are due to poor drainage.

I’ve had very good luck with Lehigh Valley Abrasives.

Do you use that knife to clean fish? Seems like it would be pretty easy to pierce the guts with that tanto blade.

Cedar is very seldomly used as structural lumber. Fence posts yes, deck post or beams probably not. Ask contractor to show the span tables in the building code that allows this.

I beleive the OP spoke with the building inspector, not the building official. There's a difference in most cases.

I’d really urge the OP to go speak with the local building official.

I really like the partially serrated blade; super useful to saw through all kinds of tuff stuff, especially old poly rope and similar things. Having the serrated edge allows you saw stuff without dulling your finer cutting edge.

Benchmade Mini Griptillion. It just works really well.

When you’re changing out a set of shocks, you’ll sure miss having a set deeps.

What’s the U rating of the old window? If it’s like .47 or something; go talk to the building official. You’re upgrading the energy efficiency, what’s another .3 U-factor really going to gain. Certainly worth a try.

Are you repalcing an existing bay window? If so, you may be able to use a weighted average for that particular wall (R503.1.1.1) Possible if you have the wall torn apart, you could upgrade wall insulation to bring average R factor up. If you're replacing a flat window with a bay unit, probably...