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Most garage door openings do not have a footing or foundation wall under the garage door openings.

Those cracks are “checks”. Lumber grades have a maximum specified size of checks. As long as you have the correct lumber grade, or the checks don’t exceed grading standards, you’re good. The notching however is suspect.

Retired carpenter here, I’ve used a number of laser miter saws over the years, didn’t like any of them. Much quicker and more accurate to line a stationary saw blade up on the workpiece.

If the plans call for 12” spacing, have the framer fix it; unless there was some agreement in writing to the contrary between bro and framer.

Cut a small kerf on the underside of the deck board.

There should be a piece of flashing going from under the siding, down over the ledger.

I’ve re-tipped pry bars, screwdrivers, chisels, etc… A hand file won’t hurt the temper, takes a little longer though.

Yes, strongbacks are 2x4 in a tee. Other thing you could do is remove one of the existing headers, and then install new header at an angle with some temp posts, then slide it in knocking out the other single header.

Gable end trusses are not self supporting, like a standard truss; so yes it’s load bearing on the wall. However, probably not too much. As Bert said, if the gable is sheathed, probably not too much of an issue. If it were me, I would temporarily support it somehow. A couple of strong back braces...

Everything in construction is measured width first, then height; except hinges. Hinges are measured vertical first, the width. Width is measured from the inside edge of the dap, to the center of the hinge pin. Looks like you have 5" x 1 1/2" hinge; pretty common.

My speed handles are next to my old hand saws and hand drills.

If you’re using a vacuum bleeder, use the least vacuum pressure you can; this will greatly reduce sucking in small air bubbles. When you are actually sucking air out of the system, the bubbles will be reasonably large. Many very small bubbles will be from leakage, not out of the brake system...

I use it on my 2012, but theyhave different models for different years. Go to home page on the website and you should find what you need. Email them with any questions, they’re pretty responsive.

This is what I use on my Harley: infotechmercenary.com/product/itm-hd1-abs-flush-utility/ Works well, great value.

I’ve had a Husky box for several years, no complaints.

I just retired from commercial construction, no welding inspector would pass structural welds if paint was not removed.

A. Looks like stand-offs for glass, like a shower door. B. Some sort of torture device. C. Pipe clamp D. No idea whatsoever.

I’d say waffle slab. But only difference between a waffle slab and pan slab is the waffle slab rib layout is square, where as a pan slab has ribs in a rectangle. Both are formed with metal pan forms; thus the name. Technically they’re “integrated rib and beam“ slabs. Concrete poured on...

I’ve had a good selection of these over the years, but I always go back to the Stanley 99E. Easiest one to use, just lacks a clip which I really don’t miss most of the time.

Yes, all depends on slab depth, mix strength, cure rate, reinforcing, etc…