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Look up die grinder and look up foredom then decide.

That indicator light is triggered by the alternator, unplug the harness at the alternator and the light should go out, if it does, check the fuses as there should be one for this circuit.

I've used the TYC brand several times and they are as good as it gets for aftermarket. Sometimes the only choice.

5/8 lug nuts?

I see a lot of older used ones for sale.

I have never replaced any, looks like you have copper left on there, machine it and use it.

Two rows in one of my enclosed trailers, very handy.

To test a circuit under load.

Do you really need to run a line from a sink into the septic?

I just use whatever pieces of scrap that would go into the scrap metal bin.

A drain snake.

The problem is most likely the potentiometer on that little board. You can use an electrical cleaner to spray inside of it or if you can solder, find a replacement to solder to the board.

Can you post a picture of this?

I made a frame for 2 older Craftsman boxes end to end out of 2x2 angle iron and put casters on the corners, has been good for 40 years or so...

I have been using the Power Probe version for years, been through several cheap units first.

You might try a Torx bit in the center of those, this sometimes works for boogered up allen screws.

Acetone from a pressurized cannister and cycle them.

Well, being that you can't determine the difference between a check valve leaking in the pump vs a pressure regulator that is in the fuel tank and would have to replace both or pull it apart twice, I would just change the whole thing. If you don't mind doing the job more than once, go ahead.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it, if the pressure bleeds down quickly, replace the whole fuel pump module with a quality one and be done with it.

I like the speed and ease of camlock tiedowns unless you need to hold something like a car on a trailer, then the ratchet strap.