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That's exactly what the Amish crew did. Used my 14' 2x6's. Rafter tails are straight as an arrow.

So, had a 3 person Amish crew out this after who got the roof up/sheathed in about 4 hours. Knew I was in over my head after sheathing 11' walls. They lifted up trussed by hand (one person pushed up to two working top plate, and sheathed gables after flying them. Best $2k I've spent.

Yes, that's what I plan to do. Putting up 3 sheets and another diagonal brace. Walls are already plumb and braced all corners.

I do have diagonal bracing on right wall (look at truck roof) but not really long enough to hand my hat on, and would add another to right side of that wall. I agree more is needed and maybe put up 3 more sheets and get more of front wall completed. Thanks for the advice.

Hi, I have some help coming tomorrow with intent to fly trusses. Today I only got two sides of a 26' x 26' 11' walls garage sheathed. Is it OK to go ahead and get trusses up with right side not sheathed, and sheath it after they're up, or maybe get 2-3 sheet up to help stabilize the wall before...

Was really just looking for a "you can try this or that or just frame it and don't worry about it) kind of feedback. Not to label me a troll etc. I am an engineer by trade (40 years) so a little **** about things. Was hoping to have my starter strip against the foundation for a variety of...

Thanks, nice comment and I appreciate it. I'm good to go on from here however.

You seriously believe I have calibrated tape measures? :rolleyes: The original picture I posted was drawn hastily and had wrong perspective om the stud. Troll is gone..no harm no foul.

Trying to understand why I even posted on this site. Nothing but sarcasm for the most part. Was going to document this build but not now. Too many experts who like to puff their chest.

It was corrected after I reviewed initial forms were set. As I mentioned, the concrete weight pushed the kickers out a bit. Was 35 yard total for this pour. Could build a min skyscraper on it.

Yes, I was on a framing crew for some time. Nice to keep things tight. The picture you're referring to is the sheathing not the stud. Thanks for your interest and expert commentary.

Ohio

LOL...my tape measures are all calibrated. Lucky I was inspecting this pour, they were 1.5" off side to side and 3" off on diagonal. That would have screwed my roof sheathing.

I hear you. I always overanalyze things. :(

Framing needs to be built per framing plan...26' x 26' side to side and back to front, and diagonal measurements need to be same to ensure square. Pad dimensions aren't always perfectly 26' and square which is why you need to layout your pressure treated sill plates per framing plan, not the slab.

Not worried about that. The grade slopes to the right and I have over 2' above current grade right now.

Yeah, the more I think about it it's only 1/4" and can get a can or two Great Stuff pest foam for $20.

Is this what you are proposing? Just making sure I understand. Push top of siding out and lever bottom in towards slab?

Hi, I just had a 26' x 26' garage slab poured and the width turned out to be 3/8" wider due to forms expanding from concrete weight. If I divide that by 1/2, that leaves me with 3/16" sill plate from edge of slab on both sides. If I have 7/16" sheathing added, that will result in the sheathing...

I hear what you're saying. When I finished my basement (1000 sq.ft.) I did everything BUT the sheetrock. No interest in tackling that. That said, I've worked on framing, concrete, siding, roofing etc. crews as summer jobs while in college and not afraid to tackle this. I'm subbing the...