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Made a big hasp for each end with a padlock, access through man door.

I could find so many ways to break that without even trying....

Go for it. Just fill the old holes so you don't get moisture in them

About the only boots I can wear are Canadian army surplus, size 14W. Got one pair made by Boulet, other ones are anonymous. The most expensive were $30 and never worn.

What's under the bench now?

Find something used from somebody that's going bigger.

Just nail them on the same as the outside ones.

Is there a particular reason you're studding it rather than just running 2x4s horizontally and putting your wall on? Either way you'll want insulation in there.

I have some of almost everything. Must have at least one power tool from every brand and the same for handtools. Just added some extra 1" to 1 1/8" wrenches I picked up for $1 each at a flea market, too rusted to identify but good and solid as backups for my others. Farmer/logger, use tools...

23' is not enough. What are you going to have on the second floor? Might be able to work in an I-beam or two that you could run a trolley on for a hoist, depending what loads you need to carry above and where.

I've always had better luck crimping a couple of nuts onto the cable in a vise or press than using actual cable ferrules. The cable's likely to break again before the end lets go anyway.

Haven't seen a cordless in 3/4 so far but I'd consider it.

Any favourites or avoid at all costs? Looking at Milwaukee, Dewalt or Makita so far but open. 95% farm equipment use, looking for portability over air.

Yeah I found about 10 years ago most of the pipe started getting slightly thinner walls and they didn't work right anymore.

Sure with the right size headers you can do it. The other option is to run your trusses the other way, 40' is a nice common width, then you could do whatever you want for doors, even go with scissor trusses if you want more clearance.

Picked this up cheap tonight. About 24x32, top swivels 360 degrees although it's stiff. Good and sturdy, looks like WWII-50s vintage and the shelves/drawers have been cobbled on later. My first and probably best thought is to put a rubber mat on the top, build a lip on 3 sides, build some...

General International. Western Rugged are pretty rough too.

If you're mostly going to be using it for holding and not hammering, I'd be tempted to make the height adjustable, maybe get a heavy duty implement jack or drop leg ******** a highway trailer and put the vise on top of it.

I just might when my daughters are old enough to date ;-)

I only ever take them off once. Put appropriate worm-drive clamp back on.