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right just there is a lot of saw cuts in it from moved walls, old pipes and sewer. But i agree terrazzo with just staining it's better to restore.

To my knowledge terrazzo can't be stainles it's a mix of concrete terrazzo and many years of saw cuts in certain places filled with concrete for sewer repairs, remodeling,etc. So a coating seems the most reasonable way.

Thank you, i've actually been reading on that based on couple of other posts, and was intrigued by the no prep for this use. It sounded like it would be durable for this interior use for this purpose and had already moved it to the top of my idea list. I ran out of time the other night but...

I have a 2nd building on my property that has flooded a few times, looking to use this as a guest house (in fact a house is what it was originally). The existing floor is ancient stained terrazzo (refinishing not feasible it's a 50's home with tons of previous repairs saw cuts through slabs...

actually ignore that i forgot i only have 8 feet to the beam, too short of a run for that i gotta give this some more thought.

Given a bit of thought i'm leaning towards a retractable stairway that is 99% of time down. I've seen various ways of doing this,custom fabbed hinges, pipe through joists and stair stringers....those ideally need renforcement rings to deter splitting or maybe there's some pipe bushings i recall...

The high torque milwaukee is the version of the lineman 2865-20 i have that (linemen) , and it's a beast and your arm will feal it too. Drives 11/16, 7/8 3/4 augers or whatever thru 10" pilings all day like nothing, cranks off salt water nuts sitting 30 years in cca like nothing, drilling lag...

That's one i hadn't thought about, i had pondered using the lift as say a 1/2 way landing with some sorta fold down ladder on the lift and another at the loft, but parked 4 foot high it's pretty steep run still for the small lift , but i'm still pondering that. But yeah let me think about using...

yeah i've thought about the winch idea but it's sorta like the lift , it's the wait to lower raise that limits usability up there., it's a big area 8 foot head room up there entirely usable for certain things (if not in the summer or was insulated and mini split ac). Side wall is easiest thanks...

thanks for the input, yes that's the thing i use it for storage and want to move every day access stuff up there, i gotta share the lower with kids and wife stuff , deep freezers, and well i got some **** down there too. The lift i use now if i have the patience but its while neat is based on a...

thought about this more clearly today, i think i'm going to just go with a 4 foot landing L in a corner that way i can come in with the joist direction and only have to do a small bit of framing around the opening, vs needing to do a stair girder or come up the front. that seems the best way...

edit[ **** wrong room i wasn't looking , not a lighting question maybe a mod can move it or i'll figure it out to general] Ok i'm gonna throw my mess out there and see if can get some suggestions from folks who've been through this "where can i put some stairs that won't block important ****'...

that was the one, plug and play install, torqued to specs, lucked out with an easy fish thru drywall and insulation into the panel. Glad brewcheif reminded me of that here, i had looked at that a year or two ago and thought 'not sure how to tell compatibility i'll revisit it' and forgot....had...

try 2 node mesh or even 3 put one in house, one by window, you place your nodes in separate areas they piggy back off each other extenders and such don't switch seamless wifi sids when moving around. With mesh you can move freely listening music, watching,etc seemlessly....easier setup too plug...

yeah i'm pretty sure all they care about on a garage door is the install instructions installed according to garage door which confirms to break out your wallet wind code. But that most doors will require that....i dunno i don't think they even come out and inspect that stuff they may for home...

87 bucks home depot! https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-200-Amp-Main-Circuit-Breaker-Conversion-Kit-THQMV200EP/320305895 thanks for help gonna double check install docs when it gets here (free delivery) and easy return but looks like the one to me... I have a free 30 amp breaker in the panel...

sheesh i think i found it, tried to find install for the thqmv200e (formally 200d) conversion kit...

yeah that's the confusing thing ... if you have a different load center model number for main lug, main breaker, and convertible (tlm) is that just sales verbage for out it comes out of the box but they're all the same? as i have a main breaker model number obviously without a main breaker...

it sounds like they want to remove the ply and just 'add' a 2x6 over the 2x4 studs. thus your door depth would be a bit back so you'd have a 1.5 edge of the 2x6 newly in the door frame which your existing side trim/seal would get moved back and probably have to touch up whatever is under that...

i'd check the door docs, usually the installation requirements are there. not sure if that supersedes code or not if there is even anything specific about it. Florida normally must meet some SHTF wind or other standard for a billion bucks and the florida approved door will meet that. and i'm...