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K13 and MP&C thank you again- yes the car is going to bare metal to show any and all issues. As it stands now- most is looking good. I am pulling out the rear quarter window and regulator to gain access to the quarter panel that has shrunk to do the hammer and dolly work. The welds on the front...

so.... I don't have access behind the quarter panel it is around the inner fender well area. the only way to gain access would be to cut out a section in the inner fender well. I welded without planishing the area. I guess I did not wait long enough because the weld pulled in decent area on...

ok...gotta ask, because I havent found a good video or pics of how to planish a weld with hammer and dolly. Do you basically weld, and then directly after welding, hit the weld with dolly behind it?

If you have a large patch panel that was cut a bit to short, how can you fix the gap? trim a small piece and use it as a backing plate?

MP&C...I know you have heard it lots on this forum and others...but holy **** that fabrication work is just outstanding! I spent the evening reading your various project threads and just in awe of that skill. well back to the task at hand... opened up the driver quarter...needs lots more than...

Thought I would update the thread with the addition of new cabinets. Found a guy listing free material from a mid-40's style home. had some pics of some metal kitchen cabinets so I called him up and told him I was on my way. Great score. Sanded off the paint, mixed my own blend of rustoleum...

I think a shrink/stretcher is a key tool for the fab work I need to do. I have some hammers and dolleys. Looking at MP&C project thread I have some ideas on how to make some as well. I didn't see any pics in his thread on the 55 wagon on fabing a panel for the back corner of the window? maybe I...

I don't have equipment to make them.

the shops current view...

or cars that are listed as daily drivers and found out to be project cars... ugh...not looking forward to this repair.

How do you fix this in the corners. currently it is full of caulking, but I removed some and there is about a 1/4" gap. shock towers are okay The floor pans- driver side *****- passenger side footwell ***** the trunk pan-its fine but the bottom of the trunk lid ***** I have a rat rod that...

I do not know if it will be kept or turned yet. I am being very cautious about where I am spending the money on the car (which is all focused at body work right now) my original intent was to keep it and sell my 08 Mustang GT and drive this as a daily driver. Knowing I would be adding AC and...

Kevin54- yeah, I will probably start a new build thread, instead of the major paint problem thread growing into one. As for your suggestion on unloading it with bondo and macco job- unfortunately I am nothing like the previous owner and can not rip off someone. The car has problems for sure on...

well all that junk is gone as of this weekend. I had never seen the riveted panels over rusty holes with 1/4" bondo on top...of course I have not been doing this very long either.

e-tek...just so I am clear...I have already sanded the entire car with 220. the areas that do not need bodywork, block it in with 400. once bodywork is finished and blocked in with 400, shoot entire car with epoxy sealer.

I agree...prep makes it perfect. yes I will need a couple coats of highbuild primer I'm assuming to block it in smooth.

Yes it is a hole for the marker light. I have not cut it yet. I'm still trying to read up on planishing...never done that before. I'll take your advice on cutting the flange and **** weld.

is it okay to put the sealer over the 220 scuffed body and the new bare metal panels?

went from a joyful moment of getting that car to Holy sh*t...

MP&C- here is a pic of the panel I was discussing. So you are suggesting cutting that recessed overlap off? you can see the recess where the taillight still has to be cut out.