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I got a smoking deal on a loaded toolbox awhile back that had its origins in aviation. All the tools had been magnetized for detection purposes. Not coming from aviation I knew nothing of such things until they were furry. Piece by piece they took a trip across my demagnetizer, Some still need...

Something in that form factor would be the ticket. No clue if it would actually work but the price is not terrible if its a failure.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I assumed it was from using a magnetic bit, the impacting itself, or a combination. Its interesting that its still holding residual magnetism good enough to attract dust after being countersunk and compounded over from an one second incident 10 years...

Which is interesting in my case. Insulated 2x6 with staggered studs, 1" foil Polyiso on that. Interior on the polyiso. There is very limited bridging.

I guess I am not following you. the screws have been compounded over, sanded, primed and painted. There is no visible surface deviation

I can pull some of the dust off with a strong magnet

I built my shop about 10 years ago, I didn't really notice anything for the first couple years. I made the mistake of trying to wipe the dust off, don't do that.

You can get platforms like the Vestil above at lowes or depot for like $60. I have a topside creeper, its great for it purpose, but its kind of a pain in the *** to store when you are not using it.

My shop has finished walls, and I do a significant amount of metal work. Apparently my drywall screws have become magnetic and are attracting any airborne metal not captured by filtration. The weird thing is it's not everywhere? Any inexpensive/portable way to demagnetize the screw heads...

I find 50% pretty decent as bare steel does not readily rust. The shop is very rarely above 70F even with no AC running. I keep it around 65 in the summer when working and 60 in the winter.

If I turn the dryer on it works well. I typically bypass the dryer due to costs and never having this issue before. I'm going to have to **** it up until this is remedied.

I consider my compressed air setup pretty decent but suddenly am having issues. Any large consumer is releasing water vapor at rate that is unacceptable. This setup has been in service for 10+ years so I am typically fluent in its abilities and fully understand that hot air holds water vapor...

It would depend on intended use. Hauling something with a lot of surface area it would probably work, but something with a more concentrated load point it would bend or deflect the deck to the crossmember possibly staying there.

Have you welded through this product? I am curious if its like weld through primer which technically you can weld through but leaves contaminated welds unless the areas to be welded are cleaned fist.

Thats very interesting, I will have to look into that more. $40 a can is expensive but I would probably lean towards the quarts.

I am rebuilding a steel flatbed with rust jacking between the floor and crossmembers. Both are being replaced. I am sure from new they were just bare steel with powdercoat on what could be seen which lead to failure. My fist thought was to prime and paint everything and wirewheel where the...

I will have to find the .030 liner and compare, but I would assume so. The seated end is non adjustable.

Any idea if the HTP gun works with miller consumables? I did the right thing when I bought the hated gun and bought a big pack of tips and nozzles.

I removed the liner and the cable is still just as stiff and resistant to even minor rotation (90 degrees) without wanting to spring back. My 200a gun can rotate well over 180 degrees before it wants to spring back and it's much less tension even with that amount of rotation.

Miller copied a Bernard style liner not a Tweco. The liner screws in and cannot be clocked in a different orientation.