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Heater has a C connection, thermostat does not. It's a Honeywell rth2300 which is battery only. I'll be upgrading to a true WiFi enabled thermostat now that know the heater can power it.

Boy do i feel dumb. I've never even heard of anything like 24v AC! You guys were 100pcr correct. Thank you!

It's 24v AC and not DC? And yes, that 24v should be available across the R and C terminals and i see no voltage there. For some reason i only get 6-8 weeks on a set of batteries. And I am trying to use the WiFi smart thermostat as the monitor to alert me if there's a problem of freezing 😉

Have a 50k btu Big Maxx and it works as designed. However, my thermostat is a battery powered unit that drains the AAAs really fast and I have had the garage freeze while not keeping a vigilant eye on it. I decided to upgrade to a WiFi thermostat and after looking at the Big Maxx I saw +24v on...

Would have jumped on this but OOS everywhere around me. Here's the brickseek link if others want to try: https://brickseek.com/home-depot-inventory-checker/?sku=306079008

Thanks, guys. I looked for some kind of overload protected outlet at the hardware store yesterday to try and cobble together something "safe" to bypass the factory switch. Came up pretty empty save for a power strip with a 15a breaker. That should do, right?

You're the man. Pics seem to be displaying now. Thanks.

S36-300. Sorry about that. https://ctpowertools.com/product/s36-300-delta-shopmaster-10-portable-table-saw-28-rip/ And very weird -- I had photos uploaded and displaying last night but they are gone today. Would think a mod would have a made a note if there was an issue. Lets try again.

It's not popping the breaker on the circuit -- it's popping the overload breaker. And not at start-up, either. No HP indicated-- just 15 amps.

Model 36-300. Motor doesn't have any markings or model numbers. Not sure about the AFCI breaker.... Looks like a regular thermal overload button. Also seems like someone removed the photos I posted in #3. Did I do something wrong there?

Pulled the motor out of the housing and I don't see any obvious issues:

I bought at Delta Shopmaster Table Saw 2 years ago at Menards. It's about as basic as it gets and I've only used it half-a-dozen times on simple home remodeling projects. It did what I needed it to do.... until recently. Now if I try to cut through anything thicker than cardboard the circuit...

Ahhh you are correct. I can't find the stab fittings for sale anywhere on-line. Got a link by chance?

I'm getting ready to tackle this same project in Western WI. My plan is to run 3/4" PE tubing from after my meter to my garage. Local plumber quoted me $1800 and I still had to dig the trench..... seems CRAZY to me!! I found these stab fittings that don't require fusion or a tool. I'll...

Thanks, everyone! I actually really like the idea of that digital timer switch that has sunrise/sunset adjustments. I also love the idea of the smart home/hub route but it's just overkill for this particular project.

Was really just thinking a switch inside would be nice -- I don't see any reason to program these or require any kind of logic to them. I turn off the house lights when I go to bed and want to be able to turn off the garage lights at the same time. I do have motion-activated security lights...

Unfortunately it's a lot of accent lighting (including some of those cheesy tuscan string lights) that this won't work with.

I'm looking for a solution to control my outdoor lights from inside of my house. Not practical or possible to run a wire for a switch. I currently have all of the lights on a single switch inside of the garage. Is there a remote control type of product that would be easy to install? A quick...

You are correct. Thank you.

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I'm building a workbench and using 2.5" spax screws with an impact driver. They drive easily and don't require predrilling but they are not "sucking together" 2x4s. They seem to just countersink themselves more and more without creating a tight...