Craftsman Drill Press

bagged89s10 · Dec 31, 2015

What's the proper belt tensioning procedure for the vari-slo setup? I can't seem to get the correct tension to be able to go thru all the speeds once the dp is running. Is it just that my old belts are stretched and I need to get new ones?

FrankLee · Dec 31, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
What's the proper belt tensioning procedure for the vari-slo setup? I can't seem to get the correct tension to be able to go thru all the speeds once the dp is running. Is it just that my old belts are stretched and I need to get new ones?

I'm afraid I won't be much help with Vari-Slo issues. I'm not a big fan of them. IMHO, they're too finicky, too fragile, and too noisy. I much prefer the Multi-Speed Attachment. I had a V-S for a short time, put new belts on it and flipped it.

I can only suggest re-reading the installation instructions and verifying that the belts are correct and in their proper location. You never know what a previous owner did with it or to it.

Vari-Slow belts:
- A19 - motor pulley to Vari-Slo rear pulley, 21" (top)
- A15 - Vari-Slo rear pulley to Vari-Slo front pulley, 17" (middle)
- A18 - Vari-Slo front pulley to spindle pulley, 20" (bottom)

EDIT:
IMO, AX19, AX15 and AX18 COGGED belts would be better choices.

bagged89s10 · Dec 31, 2015

FrankLee said:
I'm afraid I won't be much help with Vari-Slo issues. I'm not a big fan of them. IMHO, they're too finicky, too fragile, and too noisy. I much prefer the Multi-Speed Attachment. I had a V-S for a short time, put new belts on it and flipped it.

I can only suggest re-reading the installation instructions and verifying that the belts are correct and in their proper location. You never know what a previous owner did with it or to it.

Vari-Slow belts:
- A19 - motor pulley to Vari-Slo rear pulley, 21" (top)
- A15 - Vari-Slo rear pulley to Vari-Slo front pulley, 17" (middle)
- A18 - Vari-Slo front pulley to spindle pulley, 20" (bottom)

Yeah it does seem a bit finicky. I couldn't pass it up for $80 though. This is the best I got it to work with the current belts.once I take it all apart and restore it, I think it will suit my needs. If not, I'll sell it.

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FrankLee · Dec 31, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
Yeah it does seem a bit finicky. I couldn't pass it up for $80 though. This is the best I got it to work with the current belts.once I take it all apart and restore it, I think it will suit my needs. If not, I'll sell it.

No, for $80, I wouldn't have passed on it either.

In your video, if that's as far to the right as the control arm moves, there is something wrong. I'm thinking incorrect belt(s), but it's just speculation on my part. The clamping pad replacement gizmo suggests that the previous owner was messing with it.

bagged89s10 · Dec 31, 2015

FrankLee said:
No, for $80, I wouldn't have passed on it either.

In your video, if that's as far to the right as the control arm moves, there is something wrong. I'm thinking incorrect belt(s), but it's just speculation on my part. The clamping pad replacement gizmo suggests that the previous owner was messing with it.

yeah that's as far as it will go. If i loosen the belt tension on the motor, then I can move the speed all the way to the right. But then the belt just slips when i move the speed to the low setting. The previous owner was a machinist and I'm sure he messed with it. But who knows what the son did with it after the guy passed.

Just check out this table top the previous owner built for it with an overkill light mount.

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And for whatever reason all the badges are missing including the one on the motor.

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FrankLee · Dec 31, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
yeah that's as far as it will go. If i loosen the belt tension on the motor, then I can move the speed all the way to the right. But then the belt just slips when i move the speed to the low setting. The previous owner was a machinist and I'm sure he messed with it. But who knows what the son did with it after the guy passed.

The more I study your pictures and compare them to mine, I'm quite certain you have an incorrect belt(s).

In both pictures, the control arm is set to the slowest speed, which positions the front V-S pulley as far back as it will go.

The front belt on yours is positioned in the middle of the front V-S pulley, whereas mine is at the smallest point of the front V-S pulley.

The middle belt on your V-S is in the middle of both V-S pulleys, whereas mine is at the largest point on the front V-S pulley and the smallest point of the rear V-S pulley.

At minimum, your front belt is too long. New belts will solve that issue.

FrankLee · Dec 31, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
Just check out this table top the previous owner built for it with an overkill light mount.

And for whatever reason all the badges are missing including the one on the motor.

That table is actually pretty nice. Plenty big enough for a vise and very good edges for clamps.

bagged89s10 · Dec 31, 2015

FrankLee said:
The more I study your pictures and compare them to mine, I'm quite certain you have an incorrect belt(s).

In both pictures, the control arm is set to the slowest speed, which positions the front V-S pulley as far back as it will go.
The front belt on yours is positioned in the middle of the front V-S pulley, whereas mine is at the smallest point of the front V-S pulley.
The middle belt on your V-S is in the middle of both V-S pulleys, whereas mine is at the largest point on the front V-S pulley and the smallest point of the rear V-S pulley. At minimum, your front belt is too long. New belts will solve that issue.

FrankLee said:
That table is actually pretty nice. Plenty big enough for a vise and very good edges for clamps.

Maybe the previous owner setup it up this way to keep it a slower speed drill press. He was a machinist and used it for metalwork. Either way, I will be ordering new belts. I will measure the currents belts and heck the sizes as well.

Yes I like the table as well. I've always had to rig something up when wanting to clamp a large piece in place.

Edit: I measured the outside diameter of the belts with a flexible measure tape.

Rear belt. From the motor pulley to the v-s pulley 21.25". This is 0.25" too long

Middle belt. Between the 2 v-s pulleys 18.25". This is 1.25" too long.

Front belt. From the v-s pulley to the front spindle pulley 22.25". This is 2.25" too long.

If I measured correctly the belts, the middle and front belts are significantly stretched.

FrankLee · Dec 31, 2015

bagged89s10 said:
Edit: I measured the outside diameter of the belts with a flexible measure tape.

Rear belt. From the motor pulley to the v-s pulley 21.25". This is 0.25" too long

Middle belt. Between the 2 v-s pulleys 18.25". This is 1.25" too long.

Front belt. From the v-s pulley to the front spindle pulley 22.25". This is 2.25" too long.

If I measured correctly the belts, the middle and front belts are significantly stretched.

I could see a 0.25 stretch, but 1.25 and 2.25 seems unlikely. Are there any manufacturer part number markings on those belts?

bagged89s10 · Jan 1, 2016

FrankLee said:
I could see a 0.25 stretch, but 1.25 and 2.25 seems unlikely. Are there any manufacturer part number markings on those belts?

Happy new year!

The old belts are too worn to see any numbers or markings.

FrankLee · Jan 3, 2016

This thread passed the 30000-views milestone today. Thanks for stopping in!

A E Numan · Jan 3, 2016

Part of the set up instructions for the Vari-Slo concern where on the head, the head casting assy. is mounted. After I replaced all of the belts I ran the machine wile moving the control knob all the way to the left then turn the head casting assy. to line up the pointer with the "300" on the scale. That's supposed to give you the full range of speed's

bagged89s10 · Jan 4, 2016

A E Numan said:
Part of the set up instructions for the Vari-Slo concern where on the head, the head casting assy. is mounted. After I replaced all of the belts I ran the machine wile moving the control knob all the way to the left then turn the head casting assy. to line up the pointer with the "300" on the scale. That's supposed to give you the full range of speed's

I'll try that. I was thinking the vari-slo pulley was supposed to be perfectly in the center but obviously it wasn't working. My mistake for loosening he head for transport and not noting the position of the pulley setup.

A E Numan · Jan 4, 2016

If you do a search you can find the complete installation instructions for the Vari-Slo. I don't remember where I found them, It might have been at http://vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx

RSwannabe · Jan 10, 2016

I wanted to thank Frank and all others that have posted great information here. You inspired me to go out and find my own Craftsman 100/150 and restore it. I ended up picking up an early 100 bench top unit for myself which I completely refurbished in red. My search then turned up a great deal on a very good condition newer 150 floor standing unit that only needed light work. I cleaned that one up and gave it to my sister in law for a birthday present.

nine4gmc · Jan 11, 2016

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Pretty sure that red bench model is a 100 but the floor model is a 150. Does the bench model have a tilt table? Excel

Excellent job on the resto, thanks for posting and I doubt I could have given the floor model away, can't beat a good pair! [emoji38]

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FrankLee · Jan 11, 2016

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

nine4gmc said:
Pretty sure that red bench model is a 100 but the floor model is a 150. Does the bench model have a tilt table? Excel

Excellent job on the resto, thanks for posting and I doubt I could have given the floor model away, can't beat a good pair! [emoji38]

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

Ditto ^^^.

RSwannabe said:
I wanted to thank Frank and all others that have posted great information here. You inspired me to go out and find my own Craftsman 150 and restore it. I ended up picking up an early 150 bench top unit for myself which I completely refurbished in red. My search then turned up a great deal on a very good condition newer 150 floor standing unit that only needed light work. I cleaned that one up and gave it to my sister in law for a birthday present.

Very nice overhaul on the 100! The 150 looks great too!

I believe the 100 is pre-1952.

Is that engine-turned adhesive film on the 150 motor? It looks good!

bagged89s10 · Jan 11, 2016

RSwannabe said:
I wanted to thank Frank and all others that have posted great information here. You inspired me to go out and find my own Craftsman 150 and restore it. I ended up picking up an early 150 bench top unit for myself which I completely refurbished in red. My search then turned up a great deal on a very good condition newer 150 floor standing unit that only needed light work. I cleaned that one up and gave it to my sister in law for a birthday present.

Awesome restorations. That bench top is a 100 and looks awesome in red!

RSwannabe · Jan 11, 2016

Thanks for the compliments. It was fun working on these two drills. Unfortunately I just don't have enough room in my shop to keep that 150. Not enough free floor space.

Frank, yes that is engine turned adhesive I used on the center section of the motor on the 150. It is a Craftsman 1/2 HP motor, but it was a gold brown and looked out of place with the gray drill. So I pulled it apart, clean everything, repainted the motor, and used the adhesive on the center of the motor for a little extra pizzazz.

RSwannabe · Jan 11, 2016

Nine4gmc - yes the 100 does have a tilt table on it.

RSwannabe · Jan 11, 2016

I took some tips from other people's projects when I redid the 100. I made an aluminum (6061) end cap on a lathe that inserts into the end of the 100's column. That allowed me to chuck the column into the lathe and polish it up.

RSwannabe · Jan 11, 2016

I am now turning that aluminum end cap I made into a slow speed option using new high speed double shielded bearings, 5/8" stainless steel D shaft, and a new four step pulley. I've offset bored the end cap for the shaft and made 1 3/8" seats for the bearings so it will be eccentric like the original factory option and you can twist it in the end of the column to adjust belt tension. I'll follow up with some pics documenting this project when I am done.

RSwannabe · Jan 13, 2016

Here you can see the end cap with the offset bore for the shaft and the bearings. I then bolted the end cap to the tilting table on my 100, turned it 90 degrees, and used milling bits to make the holes for grub screws to secure the bearings in place. I then tilted the table a bit off 90 degrees and drilled the hole for the grub screw to lock the rotation of the end cap in the column once belt tension is set. Finally there are three pics with the shaft and bearings installed and the collars on the shaft preventing axial play.

A E Numan · Jan 13, 2016

That's a wonderful job! that should last forever with those bearings. Nice use of the tilt table, I have them on two of my drills but have never used that feature. Well Done!

Reversepolarity · Jan 13, 2016

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

How far offset is the shaft?

RSwannabe · Jan 13, 2016

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Reversepolarity said:
How far offset is the shaft?

I didn't measure the shaft center line when I set the offset bore location. I simply did as much offset as I could while leaving enough "meat" around the bearing at the closest point of approach to the edge. Here is a picture of the bottom of the end cap showing how close the bearing bore is to the edge. I'll measure it for you later, but I'd guess the center line of the shaft is about 3/4" offset, allowing about 1.5" of total adjustment.

I must admit I didn't really need to do the offset, as I'll be using link belts. I just did the offset for the hell of it, for the additional challenge on the project, and because that was how the original ones were done. It would have been easier to bore the hole for the shaft and the bearing seats on the lathe on the center line (as opposed to having to set it up on the milling machine for the offset bore) and just rely on the adjustment of the link belt to get proper belt tension. I think this is cooler though.

FrankLee · Jan 13, 2016

RSwannabe said:
Here you can see the end cap with the offset bore for the shaft and the bearings. I then bolted the end cap to the tilting table on my 100, turned it 90 degrees, and used milling bits to make the holes for grub screws to secure the bearings in place. I then tilted the table a bit off 90 degrees and drilled the hole for the grub screw to lock the rotation of the end cap in the column once belt tension is set. Finally there are three pics with the shaft and bearings installed and the collars on the shaft preventing axial play.

Very nice execution!

What I really like about that design is that you can use two single pulleys, say 2" and up to 8" or more to get that chuck really slow for tapping.

Are those collars temporary or permanent? Do they interfere with belt alignment?

RSwannabe · Jan 13, 2016

FrankLee said:
Very nice execution!

What I really like about that design is that you can use two single pulleys, say 2" and up to 8" or more to get that chuck really slow for tapping.

Are those collars temporary or permanent? Do they interfere with pulley alignment?

Thanks Frank. I hadn't thought of using two separate pulley's, but that would definitely be possible for an even greater range of speeds if needed. I picked up a standard four step pulley from Granger that matches the stock pulleys' four steps (2", 3", 4", 5"). So I should have the same range as the original slo-speed option to start. If I need more range than that, I'll look into custom pulley options.

The collars are held in place by grub screws and thus can be moved and removed very easily, so I can move the axel up and down as needed. I haven't done the final mount with the pulley, but that will be tonight most likely. I do not believe the collar will interfere with the pulley as I believe it has ample room "inside" it when it is mounted with the large diameter at the bottom. If there is interference with the collar that does not let the pulley sit low enough to be aligned with the pulley on the spindle, I'll just figure out the needed axel height and then cut a groove in the axel for a C clip to replace the collar. I don't think that will be needed though.

kevrobster · Jan 13, 2016

RSwannabe said:
Thanks Frank. I hadn't thought of using two separate pulley's, but that would definitely be possible for an even greater range of speeds if needed. I picked up a standard four step pulley from Granger that matches the stock pulleys' four steps. So I should have the same range as the original slo-speed option to start. If I need more range than that, I'll look into custom pulley options.

The collars are held in place by grub screws and thus can be moved and removed very easily. Thus I can move the axel up and down as needed. I haven't done the final mount with the pulley, but that will be tonight most likely. I do not believe the collar will interfere with the pulley as I believe it has ample room "inside" it when it is mounted with the large diameter at the bottom. If there is interference with the collar that does not let the pulley site low enough to be aligned with the pulley on the spindle, I'll just figure out the needed axel height and then cut a groove in the axel for a C clip to replace the collar. I don't think that will be needed though.

Could you share the link to the pulley you purchased? I am interested in doing this myself, though I have nowhere near the skill you have showed!

RSwannabe · Jan 13, 2016

kevrobster said:
Could you share the link to the pulley you purchased? I am interested in doing this myself, though I have nowhere near the skill you have showed!

I purchased the pulley from Grainger. $42.15 each - http://www.grainger.com/product/CON...3e6f9b1afec9c16eb72b17dc2ff2aea66&origin=prod

The rest of the parts I bought from McMaster Carr:

6" long 5/8" diameter D-shaft $10.96 each - http://www.mcmaster.com/#8632t147/=10o2n9h

Bearings $8.33 each - http://www.mcmaster.com/#60355k602/=10o2nh2

Collars $1.45 each - http://www.mcmaster.com/#6432k18/=10o2nmy

Total cost in parts was $72.67, plus the cost of the 6061 aluminum stock (about $5). So less than $80 total, plus my time.

One additional thought: a friend pointed out that if you are handy with and have access to a 3D printer, your could print out an end cap to meet your needs rather than making it out of aluminum like I did. Just print it out and assemble it with the parts I list out above. It probably wouldn't be strong enough to use to chuck the column in a lathe for polishing like I did, but it should be fine for use as a Slo-speed option.

nine4gmc · Jan 13, 2016

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Awesome job RS!!

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RHJO51 · Jan 16, 2016

I had posted about the 150 I purchased with the Vari-Slo. So I fixed the egged hole in the vari-slo control arm and attempted to re-intall it in the DP. Fairly straight forward, followed the directions. Problem is, the control arm doesn't line up well with the adjustment arm from the front casting - it's about a 1/4 " too high. I can put it together, but it's not straight. Or I can get it level, but I have to raise the front casting. Something is not quite right. Figured I'd ask here first. Been over it a few times, everything looks correct. Thoughts?

Outlawmws · Jan 16, 2016

Is the hole in the big end of the connecting rod straight? is it in upside-down (maybe reverse the pressed pin?

FrankLee · Jan 16, 2016

RHJO51 said:
I had posted about the 150 I purchased with the Vari-Slo. So I fixed the egged hole in the vari-slo control arm and attempted to re-intall it in the DP. Fairly straight forward, followed the directions. Problem is, the control arm doesn't line up well with the adjustment arm from the front casting - it's about a 1/4 " too high. I can put it together, but it's not straight. Or I can get it level, but I have to raise the front casting. Something is not quite right. Figured I'd ask here first. Been over it a few times, everything looks correct. Thoughts?

I would make sure the V-S and the head frame are adjusted on the column correctly. It seems the V-S is riding high or the head frame is low.

After studying your pictures more, something seems strange. Is the spindle pulley assembly fully seated into the head frame? It seems to be riding high. You should be able to see the top of the spindle at the top of the spindle pulley. Unless perhaps you have the quill assembly removed or lowered.
Place a straight edge across the head frame over the center of the pulley. The pulley should be 3/4" below the rim of the head frame.

You also have a couple washers on the front V-S pulley.

1/17/2016

This morning, I finally swapped in my reconditioned Craftsman motor on DP#3.

RSwannabe · Jan 17, 2016

Here are a few pictures of my completed slo-speed option. I did have to make a few changes to get the pulley to sit low enough to be in alignment with the pulley on the spindle. I trimmed the lip on the top of the end plug to let it sit lower in the column and did away with the upper retaining color on the axle. Now the pulley rides on a washer that bears directly on the upper bearing. With these changes the pulleys and belts line up nicely and works perfectly.

Reversepolarity · Jan 17, 2016

RSwannabe said:
Here are a few pictures of my completed slo-speed option. I did have to make a few changes to get the pulley to sit low enough to be in alignment with the pulley on the spindle. I trimmed the lip on the top of the end plug to let it sit lower in the column and did away with the upper retaining color on the axle. Now the pulley rides on a washer that bears directly on the upper bearing. With these changes the pulleys and belts line up nicely and works perfectly.

How do you like those belt?
I have no experience with them.

RSwannabe · Jan 17, 2016

Reversepolarity said:
How do you like those belt?
I have no experience with them.

This is my first experience with link belts. So far, so good. They run smoother than regular belts. I think I will start carrying these as my spare fan belts in my 911's.

RHJO51 · Jan 17, 2016

When you are scratching your head, before you do anything stupid, ask the Guys who know. Frank, you were right on. I checked the space from the top of the head to the top of the pulley and sure enough it was 1/2" - my missing 1/4". When I looked from under neath I could see that the bearing was not against the retaining clip. I removed the quill and then the pulley spindle locking screws. A couple light taps to the top of the pulley with a block of wood seated the pulley spindle where it should be. The Vari-Slo lines up where it should now. With out Frank's observation it's likely I would not found the problem easily. Frank - you rock! Thank you!

It makes me wonder, with that egged out hole on the Vari-Slo control arm, I think the original owner had the same problem where the Vari-Slow was not aligned properly and over time the hole got egged. Perhaps the pulley spindle wasn't seated properly back then - Jim

FrankLee · Jan 17, 2016

RHJO51 said:
I had posted about the 150 I purchased with the Vari-Slo. So I fixed the egged hole in the vari-slo control arm and attempted to re-intall it in the DP. Fairly straight forward, followed the directions. Problem is, the control arm doesn't line up well with the adjustment arm from the front casting - it's about a 1/4 " too high. I can put it together, but it's not straight. Or I can get it level, but I have to raise the front casting. Something is not quite right. Figured I'd ask here first. Been over it a few times, everything looks correct. Thoughts?

I would make sure the V-S and the head frame are adjusted on the column correctly. It seems the V-S is riding high or the head frame is low.

CalsXS2 · Jan 18, 2016

Frank. Is it ok to post mine here. Or should I start a new thread. I think you don't mind,,,lol

So I picked up the 1954 model 100. I almost feel bad. The kid said he wanted a bench model. I said I had a Harbor Freight piece of junk. He said he loved HF and wanted it. So now we're both happy,,,,lol.

It's got primer all over it. And an inch of crud. It will clean up though. What ***** is that the vari-slo is broken. But it can be welded.

So the reason for my post here.

1. Is the accu-link belts desirable on the vari-slo. Any guess how many from Harbor Freight I would need. I think 2. But I would have a lot left I think. Would I be better off getting them somewhere else.

2. I've got it all tore apart now so I can't look. But I wonder if I could use a table counter balance with the vari-slo. I think not. Opinions?

3. Frank. I've never seen how your counter balance attaches to the table. Any chance of a picture.

4. I thought I read in this thread to get shielded bearings. I talked tho accurate bearing today. I can get the 6205 zz. But the 6202-5/8 is a LL sealed. Are these acceptable. Thanks.

I know you guys like pictures,,,lol.

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