Craftsman Drill Press

[Reversepolarity]

Frank. Is it ok to post mine here. Or should I start a new thread. I think you don't mind,,,lol



So I picked up the 1954 model 100. I almost feel bad. The kid said he wanted a bench model. I said I had a Harbor Freight piece of junk. He said he loved HF and wanted it. So now we're both happy,,,,lol.



It's got primer all over it. And an inch of crud. It will clean up though. What ***** is that the vari-slo is broken. But it can be welded.



So the reason for my post here.



1. Is the accu-link belts desirable on the vari-slo. Any guess how many from Harbor Freight I would need. I think 2. But I would have a lot left I think. Would I be better off getting them somewhere else.



2. I've got it all tore apart now so I can't look. But I wonder if I could use a table counter balance with the vari-slo. I think not. Opinions?



3. Frank. I've never seen how your counter balance attaches to the table. Any chance of a picture.



4. I thought I read in this thread to get shielded bearings. I talked tho accurate bearing today. I can get the 6205 zz. But the 6202-5/8 is a LL sealed. Are these acceptable. Thanks.



I know you guys like pictures,,,lol.

Helluva deal!

 

[RSwannabe]

Cals - Damn! A 100 with vari-slo, tilt table, and table lift for a POS HF DP? Nice score!

 

[CalsXS2]

Cals - Damn! A 100 with vari-slo, tilt table, and table lift for a POS HF DP? Nice score!

Thanks guys.

But no table lift. I was just inquiring if I could do one with the vari-slo attachment.

What's funny is I thought I low balled the guy over the phone with a $50 offer. But he said sold. And it was in my hometown.

Then I thought that was too easy. Kinda nervous on the way there. But I knew that vs was worth the $50. And my kid wanted the table for a nice pretty gold one he was going to get.

I got there and he turned it on. The belts were squealing, and the pulleys were dancing.

Admittedly, I wasn't sure how the vs attached. I thought it went inside the column and had just came loose. I didn't want to waste time looking too much. I just shook my head in disappointment, and said I don't know about this,,,lol.

Then I mentioned the swap. He said ok but I had to go get my dp. Man. I was so nervous thinking the other local guy was going to see it and beat me out of it. I was shaking all the way home and back. I was afraid to even stop and get gas.

Now It's a perfect match for my 1939 Delta. Meaning it's in a million pieces,,,lol.

 

[nine4gmc]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Great score, I'd go so far as to say YOU ****! [emoji481]

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

 

[FrankLee]

Frank. Is it ok to post mine here. Or should I start a new thread. I think you don't mind,,,lol

So I picked up the 1954 model 100. I almost feel bad. The kid said he wanted a bench model. I said I had a Harbor Freight piece of junk. He said he loved HF and wanted it. So now we're both happy,,,,lol.

It's got primer all over it. And an inch of crud. It will clean up though. What ***** is that the vari-slo is broken. But it can be welded.

So the reason for my post here.

1. Is the accu-link belts desirable on the vari-slo. Any guess how many from Harbor Freight I would need. I think 2. But I would have a lot left I think. Would I be better off getting them somewhere else.

2. I've got it all tore apart now so I can't look. But I wonder if I could use a table counter balance with the vari-slo. I think not. Opinions?

3. Frank. I've never seen how your counter balance attaches to the table. Any chance of a picture.

4. I thought I read in this thread to get shielded bearings. I talked tho accurate bearing today. I can get the 6205 zz. But the 6202-5/8 is a LL sealed. Are these acceptable. Thanks.

I know you guys like pictures,,,lol.

No problem at all posting here.

1. I flip-flopped my position on using linked belts. My opinion is that they are too course for these pulleys with the softer pot-metal/aluminum. Others will disagree and that's fine.

I believe the Accu-Link belt from HF is 60" long. The belts required for a V-S are 17", 20", and 21". One Acculink belt should be just enough. IIRC, each link is .875" when assembled.

2. I don't think there is enough space between the V-S and the head frame to add a counterweight inside the column. However, IF your plan is to keep your drill press stationary, ie, not on any movable platform, a counterweight does not need to be inside the column. You could rig a pulley system to your ceiling and put the counterweight against the wall or somewhere away from the DP.
You may need a longer belt to the motor pulley to make more room for a cable.

​

3. Pictures:

​

I like this counterweight system as much as, if not better than, the crank table lift installed on my DP#15.

4. Yes. IMO shielded bearings for the spindle pulley and sealed bearings for the quill. In fact, I just replaced the sealed spindle pulley bearings on my DP#3 with shielded. I also use thread locker to secure the inner race to the pulley.
I had marked the inner race and shaft and could see that the race would move relative to the pulley, especially during the jolt of start-up.

​

 

[zeet]

Hey Cal....

Let me be the first to congratulate you on a great score and to say... "You ****"! :^)
That press is in the right hands now.

(Don't waste any time feeling bad for that kid, he got precisely what he deserved)

 

[CalsXS2]

No problem at all posting here.

1. I flip-flopped my position on using linked belts. My opinion is that they are too course for these pulleys with the softer pot-metal/aluminum. Others will disagree and that's fine.

I believe the Accu-Link belt from HF is 60" long. The belts required for a V-S are 17", 20", and 21". One Acculink belt should be just enough. IIRC, each link is .875" when assembled.

2. I don't think there is enough space between the V-S and the head frame to add a counterweight inside the column. However, IF your plan is to keep your drill press stationary, ie, not on any movable platform, a counterweight does not need to be inside the column. You could rig a pulley system to your ceiling and put the counterweight against the wall or somewhere away from the DP.
You may need a longer belt to the motor pulley to make more room for a cable.

​

3. Pictures:

​

I like this counterweight system as much as, if not better than, the crank table lift installed on my DP#15.

4. Yes. IMO shielded bearings for the spindle pulley and sealed bearings for the quill. In fact, I just replaced the sealed spindle pulley bearings on my DP#3 with shielded. I also used blue thread locker to secure the inner race to the pulley.
I had marked the inner race and shaft and could see that the race would move relative to the pulley, especially during the shock of start-up.

​

Frank. Thanks for all the info.

I want to build a table for the drill press. Do you think a counter balance would work with the added weight?

If not I might have to come up with another idea. Like a trailer jack. Or I'm wondering if I could even use a lift motor mechanism out of a treadmill?

 

[CalsXS2]

Hey Cal....

Let me be the first to congratulate you on a great score and to say... "You ****"! :^)
That press is in the right hands now.

(Don't waste any time feeling bad for that kid, he got precisely what he deserved)

I'm thinking maybe he knew that the vari-slo was broke and he got himself a sucker. Dam. He got me good,,,,lol.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank. Thanks for all the info.

I want to build a table for the drill press. Do you think a counter balance would work with the added weight?

If not I might have to come up with another idea. Like a trailer jack. Or I'm wondering if I could even use a lift motor mechanism out of a treadmill?

No problem.

Yes, I think a counterweight would work with a heavier table.

If the weight is inside the column, there's going to be a point of no return. I don't recall the specifics, but my counterweight is around 29 inches long. It is hex stock that is 1-7/8" across the flats. So if using larger round stock, say 2-1/4", there would be room for more weight using the same length.

In my case, the column is 62" tall. The weight is 29" long plus a few inches for clamps, plug, eye-bolt etc. So, total table travel is probably near 26".

If you use a weight outside the column, there's lots of possibilities.


Steel Weight Formula:
http://www.benjaminsteel.com/resources/steel-weight-formula


.

 

[CalsXS2]

No problem.

Yes, I think a counterweight would work with a heavier table.

If the weight is inside the column, there's going to be a point of no return. I don't recall the specifics, but my counterweight is around 29 inches long. It is hex stock that is 1-7/8" across the flats. So if using larger round stock, say 2-1/4", there would be room for more weight using the same length.

In my case, the column is 62" tall. The weight is 29" long plus a few inches for clamps, plug, eye-bolt etc. So, total table travel is probably near 26".

If you use a weight outside the column, there's lots of possibilities.

I don't have the shop set up yet. Me and my son are just gathering tools right now. Point is, it's going to be a small shop in my basement. So if we want to work on something big we will have to be able to drag out the drill press maybe.

I'm not really sure.

 

[CalsXS2]

What color is this 1954 100 supposed to be. I thought it was a dark gray cover with primer over spray. Now after giving this dirty girl a bath in the heated parts washer it looks like light gray. Is that prime or it's really gray.

I've seen all kinds of colors. I don't know what it's supposed to be. I kinda would like to paint it with VHT epoxy paint. That's what I use on my old motorcycles. Seems to work good.

If they were ever black. What would be the closest match. Gloss black or satin black. Gloss might make it too purdy.

Here's the paint I might use. You guys think epoxy is necessarily better. I like it because you don't have to use primer.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint/

 

[nine4gmc]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

The color behind the badge is the closest match, it's a light gray on that one but they came in gold, power bronze, blue and gray I believe. I've seen refurbs in all range of colors so don't feel you have to go back stock with it, you can be creative if you want.

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[CalsXS2]

You guys think I would benefit from the epoxy paint. Or not necessary.

Do you guys use primer. You think I would need primer if I go with something like a spray enamel.

 

[Warped5]

Powder coated mine. Looks great.

 

[nine4gmc]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I usually use rustoleum on most things and only use etching primer when painting over bare metal. Ymmv

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[RSwannabe]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I usually use rustoleum on most things and only use etching primer when painting over bare metal. Ymmv

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+1. I used Rustoleum Sunrise Red rattle can on the 100 I posted pics of above. When I take something down to bare metal, I use the metal etching primer as well.

 

[FrankLee]

Paint/Drill Press Colors

What color is this 1954 100 supposed to be. I thought it was a dark gray cover with primer over spray. Now after giving this dirty girl a bath in the heated parts washer it looks like light gray. Is that prime or it's really gray.

I've seen all kinds of colors. I don't know what it's supposed to be. I kinda would like to paint it with VHT epoxy paint. That's what I use on my old motorcycles. Seems to work good.

If they were ever black. What would be the closest match. Gloss black or satin black. Gloss might make it too purdy.

Here's the paint I might use. You guys think epoxy is necessarily better. I like it because you don't have to use primer.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint/

I assume you're going to keep and use the drill press after you repaint. I wouldn't get too hung up on trying to match original colors. You should use the brand and color YOU like. Epoxy paint is probably a very good choice, but franklee, any quality name brand paint will serve you well. The final result is very dependent upon the preparation.

The only time the original color matters to me is when I can preserve the original paint.

Here are some interesting color options others have used:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5166180#post5166180

.

 

[Lintltj5]

So Im a newbie and I picked up and old Craftsman 103.23620 benchtop drill press. I have it almost totally stripped, but Im stuck at getting the quill assembly out. Im racking my brain trying to get the pinion out so I can drop the quill assembly. Can anyone tell/show me step by step? A video or picture walkthrough?

 

[CalsXS2]

I went through the same thing. I missed a bolt. I can't tell by your pic. Did you take that bolt out. You may have to help it out with a wooden dowel or something. Look at step 9.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5363344&post5363344

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8611/16657150336_f2d353ce8c_b.jpg

 

[bczygan]

Has the GJ member, that makes a replacement for the slow speed attachment, posted what he does on this thread?

Bill

 

[CalsXS2]

I don't know what the deal is with these vari-slo attachments. They seem to be a really poor casting. Mine was all crooked and twisted. It appeared to be cast that way. And then there was the guys that his holes were egg shaped. I wonder if it could be from a crooked casting.

I wonder if this is why there are some many that break.

I could fit the breaks together real nice. But then it would be twisted. So I opted to lay everything flat on a table then weld it.

I don't know. Maybe I'm messing up.

I tried to break the weld. Not with all my might mind you. But I gave it more force than I thought it would receive under normal operation.

 

[FrankLee]

So Im a newbie and I picked up and old Craftsman 103.23620 benchtop drill press. I have it almost totally stripped, but Im stuck at getting the quill assembly out. Im racking my brain trying to get the pinion out so I can drop the quill assembly. Can anyone tell/show me step by step? A video or picture walkthrough?

I went through the same thing. I missed a bolt. I can't tell by your pic. Did you take that bolt out. You may have to help it out with a wooden dowel or something. Look at step 9.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5363344&post5363344

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8611/16657150336_f2d353ce8c_b.jpg

Welcome L!

The owner's manual for your machine is available online.

The bolt CalsXS2 mentioned is part number 26614 in the exploded diagram.

Below are pictures of my Dunlap with a similar pinion assembly and a patent drawing of a slightly different model showing the cross section of the pinion.

​

If/when you have that bolt removed and the pinion is still not sliding out, follow Cals suggestion and use some gentle persuasion with a dowel and hammer.

If that bolt IS out, verify that the tip of the bolt is not broken off. The bolt has a dog-point that rides in the groove in the pinion. The dog-point is often worn on the side and could have broke off and lodged somewhere.

Please post your results.

 

[FrankLee]

I don't know what the deal is with these vari-slo attachments. They seem to be a really poor casting. Mine was all crooked and twisted. It appeared to be cast that way. And then there was the guys that his holes were egg shaped. I wonder if it could be from a crooked casting.

I wonder if this is why there are some many that break.

I could fit the breaks together real nice. But then it would be twisted. So I opted to lay everything flat on a table then weld it.

I don't know. Maybe I'm messing up.

I tried to break the weld. Not with all my might mind you. But I gave it more force than I thought it would receive under normal operation.

I'm not sure that the castings are at fault. I think they are very prone to problems when previous owners don't understand, maintain, or use them properly. I've only had one V-S and flipped it immediately.

I'm afraid I won't be much help with Vari-Slo issues. I'm not a big fan of them. IMHO, they're too finicky, too fragile, and too noisy. I much prefer the Multi-Speed Attachment. I had a V-S for a short time, put new belts on it and flipped it.

1/21/2016

I finally sold dp#7.

​

1/29/2016

Today, I sold the belt/disk sander, the most recent 8" table saw, and a spare power tool bench.

 

[CalsXS2]

Here's the bolt in question. Do you have it out.

Like frank said it has a nub on the end.

 

[RSwannabe]

Has the GJ member, that makes a replacement for the slow speed attachment, posted what he does on this thread?

Bill

I'm not sure if you mean me since I recently posted about the slo-speed I made or if you are referring to someone else.

 

[Warped5]

jziggy made mine, as well as a few others. Very nice workmanship!

 

[RSwannabe]

I hadn't seen his thread before I made mine. Here's the thread - http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300630&showall=1

 

[geologist]

I have a bunch of Vari-Slo pieces. I suppose I should ebay them soon. I'm not going to use them -- converted my drill press to run with a controller.

 

[jakemac]

I have a bunch of Vari-Slo pieces. I suppose I should ebay them soon. I'm not going to use them -- converted my drill press to run with a controller.

Oh, the horror !

 

[Outlawmws]

I have a bunch of Vari-Slo pieces. I suppose I should ebay them soon. I'm not going to use them -- converted my drill press to run with a controller.

Oh, the horror !

Hey, Watch that!

Treadmill/Variable speed/VFD > Varislow > idler (3rd) pulley > 2 pulley w/ 8 "slots" > 2 pulleys

 

[CalsXS2]

I have a bunch of Vari-Slo pieces. I suppose I should ebay them soon. I'm not going to use them -- converted my drill press to run with a controller.

What kind of controller did you use. VFD and a 3 phase motor?

 

[Lintltj5]

Thanks for the help. I was babying it too much. Just needed a little persuasion.

 

[FrankLee]

I picked up my next project... a 9" x 30" Craftsman ball bearing wood lathe, model 103.23870. It needs a new motor and a new tailstock clamp. I also need to look for some chisels and a face plate or two.

 

[bubinga]

That should lok sweet when you're done.

 

[JZiggy]

jziggy made mine, as well as a few others. Very nice workmanship!

Hey, you guys talkin' about me over here??

There's a link to details about the pulleys I make in my sig.

 

[CalsXS2]

My motor definitely needs a new cord. The whole thing is just cracked to pieces. And there's a broken wire inside. Can I add a ground where the bottom cover plate screw goes.

Also. My motor really needs rebuilt. But I'm not up for that right now. I need to get this thing running.

I found a motor that the guy says he don't think it's ever been used. It was his dads. He thinks his dad sent in a bad motor and got this one as a replacement but never used it. There's no cord or switch. He says it looks like it's never had one.

Or it could be a junk motor that his dad robbed the cord off of,,,,lol.

Anyway. Would this little Craftsman work on my model 100 drill press. Is it the right style. I don't know if it will bolt up. Or I might try to use it on my Delta, God forbid having a Craftsman motor on my Delta,,,lol.

Hard to make out the model number. But I think it is 113.18351. I can't find anything on it.

You guys got any ideas. Thanks.

 

[Outlawmws]

Cals that 1/2 horse should be fine if the shaft is the right size for the pulley.

Grounding: yes, give it a ground; no don't go under the cover screw; its not to code done that way. Give it its own ground lug.

 

[CalsXS2]

Cals that 1/2 horse should be fine if the shaft is the right size for the pulley.

Grounding: yes, give it a ground; no don't go under the cover screw; its not to code done that way. Give it its own ground lug.

Code?? I figured it was a major upgrade putting it under the screw with a crimp on eyelet.

How can I put a lug on there and where?

 

[Outlawmws]

Can you show a good pic under the cover?

 

[CalsXS2]

Can you show a good pic under the cover?

The first pic is the motor in question. See the holes for the cover screws at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions.

You want a better pic than that. I can clean the crud off maybe,,,lol.