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let's see your craftsman block grinders

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
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Location
SE Michigan
Whoo Hoo!! I finally got one!! :willy_nil
----
Can you date these by serial number. I seen no dated code on the bottom. But on the home made stand it say's 1979 in some concrete,,,lol.

Enough blabin. Just unloaded off the truck. Gotta clean it up.
Cals, it's hard to stop at 1. :rocker:

Good catch on the double entry for your model.

I agree, it is a split phase.

I don't know how to date these guys from the serial numbers, would be helpful if we could.

The black cylinder on the left is a start-up capacitor. (1-HP Go Blue!)
BBRewireda.jpg


For a label, see the link in my signature line. The thread has some Word files that can be edited.

Also, there are links to Adobe files posted a few pages back.

Good find and you got to deal with a great guy.
 
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CalsXS2

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So you guys didn't catch my action shot with the nickel on top. Or is that nothing special,,,lol. Hey. Ziggy done it. :D

The shields are a little yellowed. Can they be cleaned up. I wonder if that headlight restore stuff would work. I thought I might have seen something about using vinegar.

What have you guys tried.
 

McBrownie

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So you guys didn't catch my action shot with the nickel on top. Or is that nothing special,,,lol. Hey. Ziggy done it. :D

The shields are a little yellowed. Can they be cleaned up. I wonder if that headlight restore stuff would work. I thought I might have seen something about using vinegar.

What have you guys tried.

The nickel, I missed that! There have been some posts here that have shown some good results with plastic cleaners like Meguairs, etc.. or even toothpaste, which is a mild abrasive.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Pacific Northwest
Cal: are you happy with your $80 3/4 HP block that seems to run smooth enough to balance a nickel on it's top while running? yes you did great and if you got the stand and extras I think you might be soliciting a pat on the back or WELL DONE. I don't do YS, but i'm old and probably won't change.

anyway I can't recall which member just cleaned up his yellow shields with toothpaste, but he had some nice posts about it and how long he let the toothpaste sit on it so he could remove most or maybe all of the yellow.

McB: nice post about all the blocks over on the vintage grinders thread. :thumbup:
 
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CNGsaves

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KS and OK
So you guys didn't catch my action shot with the nickel on top. Or is that nothing special,,,lol. Hey. Ziggy done it. :D

The shields are a little yellowed. Can they be cleaned up. I wonder if that headlight restore stuff would work. I thought I might have seen something about using vinegar.

What have you guys tried.

To your credit . . . I DID see the nickel on top and knew . . . .
. . . . that you were showing it . . . . PASSED THE NICKEL TEST !! :thumbup:

Congrats on 3/4 HP C-Man grinder. For $80 that's a lifetime keeper & nice score.

I've got a cabinet Craftsman table saw, and it too passes the nickel test. ;)
 

honza.vosalik

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Feb 27, 2016
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Missouri
I recently purchased this grinder. No clue how old it actually is. Purchased for $10 in working condition.
 

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Reversepolarity

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So you guys didn't catch my action shot with the nickel on top. Or is that nothing special,,,lol. Hey. Ziggy done it. :D



The shields are a little yellowed. Can they be cleaned up. I wonder if that headlight restore stuff would work. I thought I might have seen something about using vinegar.



What have you guys tried.


Check post 7729
I showed what a long soak in hot water to loosen grit. And polishing with toothpaste will do for restoring eye shields.
 

torqueman2002

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SE Michigan
Good morning, Block fans. My comments are in in Blue.
So you guys didn't catch my action shot with the nickel on top. Or is that nothing special,,,lol. Hey. Ziggy done it. :D
Oh it's special. I meant to post, just lost track. :eek:

The shields are a little yellowed. Can they be cleaned up. I wonder if that headlight restore stuff would work. I thought I might have seen something about using vinegar.
Here's a thread "CM Block Grinder plastic eye shield clean-up" that might help.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311635
Headlight restore should be good, I use a cleaner/wax with good results. I'd be interested in the vinegar method.

What have you guys tried.

I recently purchased this grinder. No clue how old it actually is.
Some Blocks have a build date stamped in ink on the outside of the bottom cover.

Purchased for $10 in working condition.
It looks like it might be a 1/4-HP. The pic is a bit blurry, but it appears to be in good shape.
Very good find! Welcome to Block ownership.
:thumbup:

Check post 7729
I showed what a long soak in hot water to loosen grit. And polishing with toothpaste will do for restoring eye shields.
I remember that post. I'd like to link to it in my thread: "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss (with resource information)."
 
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CalsXS2

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Jun 2, 2013
Messages
507
So I really have no idea about the nickel thing. I just did it because I seen Ziggy do it. Is that really a good sign. Cause now I gotta figure out how to unstick that crazy glue,,,lol. :p

Seriously though. Won't they all do that. I assume if one doesn't, that means it has bad bearings or something?? :confused:
 

torqueman2002

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So I really have no idea about the nickel thing. I just did it because I seen Ziggy do it. Is that really a good sign. Cause now I gotta figure out how to unstick that crazy glue,,,lol. :p

Seriously though. Won't they all do that. I assume if one doesn't, that means it has bad bearings or something?? :confused:
:spit:
Just about had coffee come out of my nose, .... and I'm not even drinking coffee!

I was thinking I'd do the crazy glue thing with Go Blue!

I agree with Outlaw, or maybe rotor-shaft axial run-out.
 
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CalsXS2

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Has anyone tried buffing the shields. I do have a buffer. :pimpflash
 

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Outlawmws

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The Badlands
I think buffing will work, however buffing does remove some material, so a buffing bonnet to keep the process flat might be a better approach than a wheel on a grinder?
 

erty67

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Sep 30, 2012
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I thought I got a great deal when I bought my 6" for $20. Just grabbed a 7" commercial for $20! The guy said it was about 10 years old.

59c12cb16501d05cb30a31283edeaea4.jpg

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McBrownie

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I thought I got a great deal when I bought my 6" for $20. Just grabbed a 7" commercial for $20! The guy said it was about 10 years old.

$20? Wow, that's a deal. That grinder is from the mid to late 1970's. It is really clean and could probably use a fresh set of bearings. Congratulations and put it to good use!
 

erty67

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$20? Wow, that's a deal. That grinder is from the mid to late 1970's. It is really clean and could probably use a fresh set of bearings. Congratulations and put it to good use!
1974. Stamped right on bottom. Not sure where he got 10 years from. Lol

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CalsXS2

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I thought I got a great deal when I bought my 6" for $20. Just grabbed a 7" commercial for $20! The guy said it was about 10 years old.


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Very nice.

Ah, I think you got rooked. I'll give ya $25 for it. :lol:

Don't ya just love it when you get those kind of deals.

Very nice indeed.
 

torqueman2002

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FYI

Contrary to information I've posted elsewhere, the Block relays are current (or Magnetic/Amperage) type relays; NOT potential (or Voltage) type relays.

I created a PDF file that covers the operation, components, and testing of Block grinder start-up relays (current type), and explains the differences and applications of both types of relays.

Here is a link to the DropBox file -- "Current & Potential Relays r1.pdf".
http://tinyurl.com/Block-Grinder-Start-Relays

The following pics. are a 4-terminal Klixon 4CR-21-713 current type relay, used in a 3/4-HP Block m-397.19450 grinder.
Klixon_4CR21_713%20Lbl%20P1110209.jpg


Klixon_4CR21_713%20Lbl%20P1110204.jpg


Klixon_4CR21_713%20Lbl%20P1110212.jpg


Klixon_4CR21_713%20Lbl%20P1110215.jpg


Klixon_4CR21_713%20Lbl%20P1110217.jpg


I updated the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss ..." thread. It includes a DropBox link to the PDF file.

I plan to update the file to add an example of a Klixon 2CR relay, used in 1/3-HP and other Blocks.

Thanks for looking.
:)
 
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torqueman2002

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Anyone have recommendations for a 7" wire wheel?

x2^.

Here's a thread on ww.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275799&highlight=MSC-Wire-Wheels

I have used MSC for wire wheels.
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="103"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:3296;width:77pt" width="103"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt;width:77pt" align="right" height="19" width="103">75843607</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" align="right" height="19">75843359</td> </tr> <tr style="height:14.25pt" height="19"> <td style="height:14.25pt" align="right" height="19">3597036</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
852928df-861c-4573-b1d6-e424b0ae7280.jpg
 
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Rileysan

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Sep 11, 2015
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Location
Milwaukie, Oregon
Yesterday I made an offer of $40 on a 1/3HP Craftsman Industrial block (not sure what vintage) that was missing the light and the outer guard covers. It was in good, running condition and just missing those parts. The seller seemed incredulous at the offer and we couldn't arrive at a compromise.

Was my offer off-based?

Brian
 

torqueman2002

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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
6,138
Location
SE Michigan
Yesterday I made an offer of $40 on a 1/3HP Craftsman Industrial block (not sure what vintage) that was missing the light and the outer guard covers. It was in good, running condition and just missing those parts. The seller seemed incredulous at the offer and we couldn't arrive at a compromise.

Was my offer off-based?

Brian
The price of a Block is somewhat subjective, based on the following (not necessarily in order of importance/value/cost).

  • Condition
  • Horse Power
  • Commercial/Industrial
  • Location - this has a Lot to do with availability, and therefore price. (The price is variable too. Like in LA, I see a number of Blocks listed (1-HP in need of a restore, but missing HD base $120; 1/3-HP missing LH guard ... $100; 1/3-HP pre-Block for $130). In SE Michigan, these same Blocks would be 1/3 to 1/2 less expensive.)

So, if it looks good, has no free play in the arbor, no cracked cast pieces, starts and runs OK - it's a safe buy.

Keep in mind the cost of the following:

  • wheels/stones
  • bearings
  • power cord
  • power switch
  • relay
  • capacitor, if present
  • electrical terminal cleaning and repairs
  • paint, if you choose

The above updates will give you a grinder that should last for decades of home shop use, for most things around the garage.

I hope this is helpful.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to get back with me.

I guess there's another point I'd like to leave you with.

It's up to each guy to put a value on the purchase.

If you are flipping it/them, you need to keep costs as low as possible.

If you are keeping it to use, then it's your budget and valuation.

If you are after a 'You ****!' - you never know when you will stumble upon one.

Best of luck.

Mike
:thumbup:
 
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Rileysan

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Milwaukie, Oregon
Good information. I'm not looking for a "you ****" deal, but I don't want to pay retail either.

I'm realistic about what it takes to repair or replace parts so in spite of condition, this one didn't seem worth more than what I offered him. There was no play in the arbor and I couldn't see any cracks in the housing.

I can buy a 3/4HP block on a home-made stand for $100 right now but it needs some work.

Here are the pix I was given ...

Edit: I just noticed it was missing the tool rests as well.

Brian
 

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torqueman2002

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Your offer would not be out of line in the SE Michigan area. I can't say what they're going for in OR.

$100 for a complete 3/4-HP Block with CM stand is a good deal here. The stands can go for north of $75.

Best of luck.
 
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