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Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

Grizz1963

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Jan 7, 2010
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Rochester, KENT. UK
Rian

This ain't me - it's another Lyndon..... !!!! :shocking: :scared:

And he's from Ireland, so he probably speaks with a really funny accent....

And that was his first post.

Lyndon
The real one . . . :lol: :lol_hitti :beer:

At risk of a thread hijack here.

I know you well Aussie Lyndon.

My response was to the Irish Lyndon saying he had been here a while and then recently discovered this thread.

Anyway, we all know that all roads on the interwebs should lead here to this thread.
 
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welder57

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Feb 26, 2011
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Went to the movies this weekend, my wife and I saw Sully, great movie with Tom Hanks.
Reminded me of our airplane pilot here. Its a must see movie. Great build here as well-love the details.
 

SiGmA_X

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Portland, OR
...and doors have been started. I'm using Watco Danish Oil (anyone from Denmark in attendance here?) on the the lower cabinetry. I love using Danish Oil, it's easy to work with and I've had excellent results with it on past work. The base has 4 coats on it right now and I expect another 4 more to go to build up the finish I want. I'm buffing between coats with 0000 steel wool. The tactile feel on the face surfaces already is quite pleasant, visually pleasing and inviting to the touch. The kind of surface where you really love running your hands alllllllllll over it. It's hard to resist with it leering at you seductively, daring you to walk by and not touch it's super smooth, velvety and creamy sides................but I digress........

<Snip>

The tops are being treated with Varathane Satin Floor Finish (the bottom of the tops shown here :headscrat) which it quite hard, protects the wood and is scratch resistant. This newest material is self-leveling and does a decent job of hiding brush marks. The bottoms got two coats and the tops are probably getting 3 - 4 depending on how it goes. Sanding after the first coat with 220 and thereafter with 380. The whole base and tops are being sealed on all reachable surfaces to get as uniform moisture absorption as possible. I keep the barn humidity at 25-30% so while I retain ownership I don't think that will ever be a problem.
Thomas, a few short pages ago (Ha!) you mentioned using Varathane for your tops finish. Reading up on this, it sounds like a good product to use for the inside of kitchen drawers. Would you have any other suggestions for a novice like myself? I am considering spraying vs brushing, but I am open to suggestion as this is new territory for me!

Thanks much :)

(PS, its been over a week, we realllly need a update!:thumbup:)
 
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BB767

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Thomas, a few short pages ago (Ha!) you mentioned using Varathane for your tops finish. Reading up on this, it sounds like a good product to use for the inside of kitchen drawers. Would you have any other suggestions for a novice like myself? I am considering spraying vs brushing, but I am open to suggestion as this is new territory for me!

Thanks much :)

(PS, its been over a week, we realllly need a update!:thumbup:)

Varathane would be an excellent choice for the inside of kitchen drawers. It's a great product that has been around for a long time with a proven track record.
The original formula will leave brush marks if you're not careful (I note you might spray it on - I have no experience with that type of application so let us know how it goes :)).

If you do brush it, use a high quality brush and good lighting which will enable you to look at the brushed surface from the side to see any brush marks.
When doing the final brush strokes use a light touch and don't over brush it. It takes a little experience but nothing terribly demanding, just some patience. For the inside of drawers, brush marks would be of little concern.

I've been using Varathane for over 35 years and for a hard, durable surface it's my first choice. :thumbup:

Yeah, about those house updates.....sorry about that. I've been working instead of posting. A bunch, a bunch, a bunch has been going on out here. Here's a sampling of our progress.



The fireplace stone was acid washed today. I hung visqueen over all the nearby walls and windows to keep any spatters off. I put visqueen on the bare floor, followed by several layers of flat cardboard & topped that off with many, many old bath towels (no worries, Chris gave them to me ;)) to soak up the rinse water. We used a garden hose with a sprayer nozzle to thoroughly rinse all the Sure Kean 600 off the stone, drizzling it from the top down. The towels were wrung out periodically and when done, after all that material was removed from the floor, it was dry underneath so it worked out well. Big sigh of relief.



All the exterior wall brick and stone...



...has been laid...



...and cleaned.



Very happy with the results.



Not a great picture, I just finished laying the last brick on top of the wall above the door this afternoon. This all needs to be cleaned to see how well it turned out but you get the idea I think.



The chimney still has a few more courses to lay. It needs to be about 4'- 5' higher yet to draw well. The magic formula is the flue needs to be 3' higher that any surface within 10' horizontally.....plus a little more, just ensure it will draw well. BTW, that's more test material ya know? :dunno:



I am installing an all copper lighting rod system on the house. Here you can see the braided copper wire that is going inside the chimney as it's being built. The rod will be installed once the chimney is topped out.



The carport ....



...ceiling is done as is most of the exterior soffit, but no pictures of that yet.



Virtually all wiring is done as well as security along with...



...audio and video. The sound system for the video is all wired in and I'll post about it separately.

Last week...



...the septic was installed and finished.



This is basement wall being core drilled for the plumbing waste line to the septic.



Here's the basement wall core that was drilled out, all 12" of it.

The plumbing is all done now and was hydro tested today @ 140 psi to check for leaks and none were detected which is always a good thing. :)



The phase converter to create 3 phase has been installed and powered up.



I'll have more on this later.



Since I have 3 phase power, I'm getting ready to install the material hoist.



This is the mount I fabricated for the hoist eye-bolt...



...which is what the hoist will be suspended from. More on this later as well.

In the basement...



All the 1st and 2nd floor radiate floor tubing is now installed and successfully tested for leaks...




...most all the A/C ducts have been installed, the 2 water furnace/heat exchanges are being connected to the Geo-thermo wells shortly.

We're insulating starting this Wed for 3 days and then next week, installing drywall begins so check back won't you. There's always something going on here at the ranch.

Thanks everyone once more, for all the positive thoughts and comments on the project. It seems to be working, the house is coming along nicely. When Rian, aka Grizz1963 flies across the pond and stops in for his inspection there should be plenty to see. :D

Thomas
 

Grizz1963

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Rochester, KENT. UK
I was hoping to try out the fire place and your new favourite chair Thomas, when Dennis Jones and I get there.

Not sure about logistics, but it may be as early as Saturday 8th.

I land late evening on the 6th October and then the 7th should be a Dennis, rest day as I never rest on a plane, I am the big guy walking up and down chatting to anyone who is awake.......

So Saturday may just be the day as Sunday will be back in St Louis with Dennis and Monday early off to Jonesboro to see Bib Overalls and catch up with all he has planned.

It will be great to meet you guys.

We will confirm timing etc.
 

red

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Hudson Valley, NY
Tom not sure if the chimney cap has been poured yet, but when I do repairs I use some foam (plate sealer) to wrap the flue pipe.

After the pour I remove the foam and fill with high temperature silicone. Easier on the flue and the cap, if there's room for expansion on those cold winter nights.
 

SiGmA_X

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Location
Portland, OR
Varathane would be an excellent choice for the inside of kitchen drawers. It's a great product that has been around for a long time with a proven track record.
The original formula will leave brush marks if you're not careful (I note you might spray it on - I have no experience with that type of application so let us know how it goes :)).

If you do brush it, use a high quality brush and good lighting which will enable you to look at the brushed surface from the side to see any brush marks.
When doing the final brush strokes use a light touch and don't over brush it. It takes a little experience but nothing terribly demanding, just some patience. For the inside of drawers, brush marks would be of little concern.

I've been using Varathane for over 35 years and for a hard, durable surface it's my first choice. :thumbup:
Excellent, thank you for the input sir. I appreciate it. I'll report back once I do it, I'm not quite as efficient as you are with the projects :(
Yeah, about those house updates.....sorry about that. I've been working instead of posting. A bunch, a bunch, a bunch has been going on out here. Here's a sampling of our progress.

<SNIP>

Thomas
BUSY man! Nice work Thomas & Crew! Keep it up - and keep us updated, its great to see how its going!!

Roman
 
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BB767

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Tom not sure if the chimney cap has been poured yet, but when I do repairs I use some foam (plate sealer) to wrap the flue pipe.

After the pour I remove the foam and fill with high temperature silicone. Easier on the flue and the cap, if there's room for expansion on those cold winter nights.

Hi there red. You are proof positive great minds think alike!

Steve Halfar, my fireplace buddy, and I were going over the chimney crown/cap specifications and constructor details yesterday. He made a point of telling we'll provide room for expansion between the flue and the cap much as you described!

The rest of the chimney construction is slated for this Saturday with the cap being poured the following day, weather permitting. Waiting a day will allow the base to firm up to support the concrete crown before it's poured.

Steve's been repairing chimneys for 40 years and has developed some pretty good ideas on why they failed and what to do to prevent that from happening during construction. Sounds like you have too red. Many thanks for the heads up. :thumbup: I'll be posting more in-depth on it soon.

Just wondering why the core plug has a ring in the middle Thomas?

I think that's where he stopped drilling for a short while and then resumed. We core drilled in 2 places and I have both plugs. I'll look to see if they both have that pattern.

BTW, I just sent you a PM about my delay in sending out the Tyvek. :eek:

Thomas


Among other things today...



...we got the front of the house all acid cleaned and rinsed off. The scaffolding was all removed as well.



These pictures are before it was completely done but it shows so much better with all the masonry film washed off. That black blob in the middle is the front door wrapped in plastic to protect it during the cleaning process.

When the concrete driveway is poured, it will be level with the door threshold. You won't see the concrete block or the brick under the stone. There will be no step up to the door. That will make it easier for my wheelchair to roll into the house. ;)

Thomas
 

jbmatth

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Jun 3, 2013
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Northern Ok.
I love reading all of y'all's updates and take lots of little nuggets of knowledge from them but usually stay pretty quiet because I don't have much or anything to add. Keep after it and enjoy the trip you will be sawing wood in the basement before you know it.
JB
 

C_F

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I love reading all of y'all's updates and take lots of little nuggets of knowledge from them but usually stay pretty quiet because I don't have much or anything to add. Keep after it and enjoy the trip you will be sawing wood in the basement before you know it.
JB

Me too. I always check in here for updates, and truly enjoy the thread. Thanks so much Thomas and Chris for bringing us all along.:beer:
 

Bob Heine

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When the concrete driveway is poured, it will be level with the door threshold. You won't see the concrete block or the brick under the stone. There will be no step up to the door. That will make it easier for my wheelchair to roll into the house. ;)

Thomas
Thomas, have you begun designing your wheelchair? I'm imagining a lot of powder-coated frame parts, wind-tunnel tested fairings and a modified power-plant capable of setting a land speed record for a wheelchair. I'm sure you and your west coast friends could pull it off.

Looks something like this...
Wheelchair_zpsaxu8ymqk.jpg

... and runs like this:
 
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BB767

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Not Your Father's Wheel Chair

My, we do seem to go off on tangents around here don't we? :D

Not too sure I'd like to go 140 mph in one I'll tell you that! Even if it had lots of powder coating!!

Thanks C_F and JB for your continued interest. I'm sure there must be many like you who don't feel the need to comment but check in to see what mischief I'm up to lately! That's why I keep posting away.

Today we started...



...insulating the house. I'm using open cell foam on the walls and box sills in the basement. The red arrow indicates where the top plate of the wall is. Above it, shown by the yellow arrow, is the area that seals the house from the outside soffits that would normally ventilate the attic.

I'm using closed cell foam on the underside of the roof deck. I'll have what is considered a conditioned attic space with no need to ventilate it. The closed cell foam not only acts as insulation, but it's a vapor barrier as well unlike open cell foam.



Foam does a fantastic job of sealing small cracks and crevices throughout the structure. This installation crew has great attention to detail.



After the foam has set, (it only takes a few minutes) they trim off any excess so the drywall will install flat on the studs. The saw they use to do this is of their own design which they also sell as a sideline to their insulation business. Note he can reach the top of a 9' (2.7 m) wall without using a ladder. He's just standing on the floor.



Everything that we didn't want foam splattered on was securely covered including all door and window openings.



The exterior walls were all completed today. Tomorrow they'll start on foaming the roof decking. Next week drywall installation begins. That will be a big job in this house. 310 sheets of drywall with 18.5' (5.6 m) tall ceilings in the great room.

We're starting to see the end of the construction phase of the project in sight. Keep checking back, more is in store. ;)

Thomas
 

bryceaugustine

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56
lookin good. we just had open cell foam sprayed in a basement crawl space and on the duct work, per request of the local energy company. its a neat process.
 

ZAPPER68

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Sand Pit
IMHO, this is, by far, one of the most interesting threads on the www. Thank you Thomas & Chris for bringing us along with you on your journey.:thumbup:
 
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MG David

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Warwick UK
Thomas it is looking good. Getting the dry wall/plaster board on will make you feel you are nearly there.

Why are you not using closed cell foam on the walls? Is there a big price difference between closed and open?
 

Blackwolfe

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Sunset MI
Thomas, great work, and great thread. Just joined this sight and have started reading this thread and a couple others. Only got to about page 15 so far reading about the restored shop, but decided to jump to the end to post a compliment on your fine work and talent. I see that you're working on the retirement house that you mentioned would happen years ago in the first 10 pages or so. Keep up the good work and the posting, I really enjoy the reading, and have a lot of catching up to do.
 

DoorBreaker

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One benefit/detriment of the foam is that it acts like glue and bonds EVERYTHING together. Benefit is that it makes a very solid structure and seals very well. (some folks find out how well when they get rain indoors from having no air exchange, oops!)

On the flip side, if you ever try to tear down a place built using it and want to re-use the lumber, good luck....
 
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BB767

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......

Why are you not using closed cell foam on the walls? Is there a big price difference between closed and open?

A very good question David. The cost of using closed cell foam is much higher than that of open cell. With my house having a 100% masonry exterior, plus being wrapped in Tyvek and utilizing 6" (15 cm) thick walls, I felt that filling the wall cavity between the studs with open cell would be more than adequate.

I selected closed cell foam...




... (shown here being applied) for the roof decking to provide insulation plus a moisture barrier there. I'm having it sprayed to a R 30 value.



When Pat was spraying the peak of the roof deck, he had to climb way above the truss horizontal sections. I couldn't see him tucked up into the maze of trusses. Not for the faint of heart!

As to Charlie's question about the basement wall core band...




When I looked at the 2nd core it didn't have that band. I'm very sure that's where the drilling was stopped and restarted.

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Thomas, great work, and great thread. Just joined this sight and have started reading this thread and a couple others. Only got to about page 15 so far reading about the restored shop, but decided to jump to the end to post a compliment on your fine work and talent. I see that you're working on the retirement house that you mentioned would happen years ago in the first 10 pages or so. Keep up the good work and the posting, I really enjoy the reading, and have a lot of catching up to do.


Thank you Blackwolfe and welcome to Grange Journal and our merry band here. :D

It's fun looking back on some past posts I did years ago, where I mention future projects yet to come about and then later read and see them happen. I had this retirement house in mind from day 1 after I purchased the property. It's been very satisfying to finally construct it. All the more so since it's turning out even better than I had first envisioned it.

.....

Benefit is that it makes a very solid structure and seals very well. (some folks find out how well when they get rain indoors from having no air exchange, oops!)

....

Right you are DoorBreaker! A key component of my HVAC system is the air quality system I'm incorporating into it. I haven't talked very much about it yet. Here's a link for more information on it: http://www.buildequinox.com/

The CERV unit was designed and is built less than 8 miles from my house. As homes get built tighter, there's less exchange of inside to outside air. The CERV takes care of that by monitoring interior air quality throughout the home and when necessary, exchanging old interior air for fresh exterior air in an energy efficient way. There will be more on this later but that link provides all the information you might need for now.

Thomas
 

merr6267

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Ravenna, MI
Re: Not Your Father's Wheel Chair

. . . Thanks C_F and JB for your continued interest. I'm sure there must be many like you who don't feel the need to comment but check in to see what mischief I'm up to lately! That's why I keep posting away . . .

. . . We're starting to see the end of the construction phase of the project in sight. Keep checking back, more is in store. ;)

Thomas

You suspicions are true! We (mostly) silent ones are still here and reading regularly.

Thanks for affording us a window into your wonderful place.

Phill
 

C_F

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I wish this thread was around when I built my house 17 years ago, there's quite a few things I would have done differently in my build. Like the foam insulation, for example & in-floor radiant heating.
 

bluestripe67

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Thomas, is the special blade on the reciprocating saw very thick to prevent walking/wipping and cutting too deep? Interesting tool. Thomas, I just have to ask. Since you are working so many hours on the new house, who is excercising that fine collection of cars? :beer: Dennis
 

gasgas17

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Nova Scotia, Canada
After years of following this thread, it's still as interesting as when it started. I'm getting worried that the amount of test material to study is amassing though.

I guess you guys don't use strapping on your ceilings in the mid-west. We have to strap all our ceilings here in eastern Canada. As pictured below.

how-to-strap-a-ceiling.jpg
 

red

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After years of following this thread, it's still as interesting as when it started. I'm getting worried that the amount of test material to study is amassing though.

I guess you guys don't use strapping on your ceilings in the mid-west. We have to strap all our ceilings here in eastern Canada. As pictured below.

how-to-strap-a-ceiling.jpg

Always thought bottom strapping as shown in your picture was for sheetrocking
(for leveling off the ceiling which 5/8" sheetrock also helps with).
While for structural support the strapping is inside the trusses and usually at a diagonal.
 

stillp

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Interesting to see the different building techniques used across the pond. We don't see spray foam much in the UK; it gained a bad reputation when it was sold as a "quick fix" for leaky roofs, for which it wasn't much good, and also some of the early foams gave off unpleasant fumes (formaldehyde?) for a long time. I'm sure it's much improved now though, or Thomas wouldn't be using it.

Pete
 
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BB767

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A sincere thank you, directed primarily at Thomas and Chris, but also to all the others who have posted and contributed to this thread.
I have dipped in and out of the Garage journal for some time but a few weeks ago I "discovered" this thread/addiction.
I was probably halfway through the thread before I decided that I had better register with the forum to get the full enjoyment of the thread! I caught up with postings just the other day and felt that I was ready to transmute from lurker to poster. .......

....... I realised that I could contribute (yet another) acronym to this thread. TARDIS.

....... In reading the contributions made by other members of this forum on this thread, it really reinforces the idea that your thread brings people together across time and space: just consider Chris’ list of countries where the thread is followed and pictures of the signatures and countries in Beltsville Shell #1. This thread, the Auto Shop and more importantly, the people, have created friendships and even prompted pilgrimages.......

Thanks also to the moderators etc. for allowing the thread to stand in its entirety. You folk, alongside Thomas and Chris, have made this thread a TARDIS.
A non-antipodean Lyndon

As usual I'm a little behind acknowledging some new folks joining us here here. Teemore welcome to you sir and what interesting, thoughtful comments you contributed. That's just what is needed....more acronyms! You have brought up some very valid points and I appreciate you taking the time to compose and post them here. This thread is truly the sum of all who read, post and or lurk in the shadows.

Went to the movies this weekend, my wife and I saw Sully, great movie with Tom Hanks.
Reminded me of our airplane pilot here. Its a must see movie. Great build here as well-love the details.

I've heard it's a well done movie as well and very realistic. Sully represents all of us who give our best to transport folks on schedule with safety day in and day out. I've not seen it yet but I plan to. :thumbup:

You suspicions are true! We (mostly) silent ones are still here and reading regularly.

Thanks for affording us a window into your wonderful place.

Phill

Thanks Phill, I just knew there were others out there! :D

First time poster here. I, like a lot of the others, am a watcher and a reader of the fine threads on GJ. People like you, and many others have a vision that is out of this world. Thanks for letting us into your journey. I for one have learned a lot from everyone on GJ.

Welcome to our corner of the world 53PontiacSD. I've learned a lot myself from the many talented folks who post here on the Journal. The power of the internet in action.

**************************

And to others who I might have overlooked these last few weeks and months, I'm certain you understand how limited my time is right now so please forgive me. I mean well but there are times I just can't respond, much as I'd like to.

Now today was something of a milestone.



In my left hand is the last brick to be laid on the chimney.



This is the brick we've been looking for...



...for the last 11 weeks.



All the stone and brick on the house is now done, inside and out! We still have to pour the chimney crown to cap it off, but the bricks are all done, over 17,000 of them and...



...over 22 tons of granite building stone. All done by hand, not a machine. We capped off the carport posts a couple of days ago and washed them down yesterday.



You can finally see the beautiful colored stone...



...that was waiting patiently in the mountain...



... for Andre´ to quarry it and ship it to me last spring.



We also got the copper flashing done over the short roof last weekend too. The chimney will be flashed and counter flashed in copper in the next week or so. I'm rather traditional, stone and brick, copper roof valleys and copper flashing. These materials have stood the test of time and with luck, 100 years or more from now this home will be providing someone with safe, comfortable shelter.

But wait......there's more to come so check back. :)

Thomas
 

Grizz1963

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Rochester, KENT. UK
What an awesome entry above Thomas.

I love the way you have managed this so far. Then add in the numbers. History of where the stone came from etc.

Just that words and description fails me.

And I cannot keep myself from posting up gushing replies.
 

Lotusnut

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Thomas

How hard was it to get the last brick in? It looks like you had someone holding the chimney up from behind. Or were they just shy and didn't want to be in the picture?
 
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