Old Weaver Jack (Weaver Utility, 5000lb jack)
- Thread starter Shelbylex
- Start date
...Continued
The big bolt is 1 11/16 I guess I will need to borrow a large wrench from somebody. Do not want to damage the bolt with large pipe wrench
I also succeeded in taking off the second rear wheel assembly. It appears that at some time in the past it was taken apart. The top of the thread on the mechanism is damaged (though it is still good enough to hold the top nut). I am also missing 2 bearing balls (there should be 16 on top and 16 on the bottom. There were 15 and 15. The size of the balls are approximately 0.249 inches (measured four random ones at 0.248, 0.249, 0.2495 and 0.25)
Does anybody know where I can get a replacement? I just need two of them.
I looked online and found the Everbilt steel plain ball bearing in Home Depot for 85c/piece, but I am not sure if this will be a good replacement (I have no idea what original ones were made of; the Home Depot States that they are made of 25 chrome steel)
The big bolt is 1 11/16 I guess I will need to borrow a large wrench from somebody. Do not want to damage the bolt with large pipe wrench
I also succeeded in taking off the second rear wheel assembly. It appears that at some time in the past it was taken apart. The top of the thread on the mechanism is damaged (though it is still good enough to hold the top nut). I am also missing 2 bearing balls (there should be 16 on top and 16 on the bottom. There were 15 and 15. The size of the balls are approximately 0.249 inches (measured four random ones at 0.248, 0.249, 0.2495 and 0.25)
Does anybody know where I can get a replacement? I just need two of them.
I looked online and found the Everbilt steel plain ball bearing in Home Depot for 85c/piece, but I am not sure if this will be a good replacement (I have no idea what original ones were made of; the Home Depot States that they are made of 25 chrome steel)
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paulsomlo
Well-known member
The coating of grease on the hydraulics can only be a good thing.
I’ve never seen anyone take a weaver frame apart... Obviously this case is different. Normal procedure is to Remove the Pin from the pump piston linkage, pin that controls the release, Pull the Two cotter pins on top, pull the 1 cotter pin that secures the end of the Ram to the lift assembly and once it’s freed you simply remove the unit from the topside.
The Big Nut on the Bottom is reservoir Oil filter, only thing in there is a screen and Magnet, big nut on top is valve plug. I would get the hydraulic unit out of the frame before attacking them.
The beauty of the weaver design, welded frame, Hydraulic unit Service without the need to dismantle.... So much for that... Ha!!
The Big Nut on the Bottom is reservoir Oil filter, only thing in there is a screen and Magnet, big nut on top is valve plug. I would get the hydraulic unit out of the frame before attacking them.
The beauty of the weaver design, welded frame, Hydraulic unit Service without the need to dismantle.... So much for that... Ha!!
Agree, PaulSuomo. My concern is the rod which goes from the hydraulic unit to the lifting arm (the one at the bottom below the unit in the image in post 42). It is rusty. I hope that rust is not too deep and can be cleaned up without the need of replacement.
Thank you for more information, Hiball. I think that taking out the unit would be a little more complicated than it looks. You are right - the frame is welded. The hydralulic unit has two U-shaped sides which are held by large "pins" located to the right and left of the bolt which is slightly above the wheel assembly (post 42, image 1). The unit needs to go down to be released from that. The cotter pin wheich secures the end of the ram to lift assembly is solidly stuck at this point. The "tails" were inside the assembly. I took off the part which is facing is in the picture and tried to push it through with the punch, but no luck. Started soaking...
The problem which I will be facing is once I push it through, I will need to turn the lift ("in the direction of lifting it) to try to release it. At this point the whole assembly is solidly stuck with rust.
P.S. Unless you already figured it out, I do not even know the proper names of the parts of hydraulic unit. This please disregard if I do not call things properly.
I measured the Valve plug at 1 11/16. I will measure the Oil Filter nut when I take things out.
Thank you for more information, Hiball. I think that taking out the unit would be a little more complicated than it looks. You are right - the frame is welded. The hydralulic unit has two U-shaped sides which are held by large "pins" located to the right and left of the bolt which is slightly above the wheel assembly (post 42, image 1). The unit needs to go down to be released from that. The cotter pin wheich secures the end of the ram to lift assembly is solidly stuck at this point. The "tails" were inside the assembly. I took off the part which is facing is in the picture and tried to push it through with the punch, but no luck. Started soaking...
The problem which I will be facing is once I push it through, I will need to turn the lift ("in the direction of lifting it) to try to release it. At this point the whole assembly is solidly stuck with rust.
P.S. Unless you already figured it out, I do not even know the proper names of the parts of hydraulic unit. This please disregard if I do not call things properly.
I measured the Valve plug at 1 11/16. I will measure the Oil Filter nut when I take things out.
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Once you release the lift arm shaft from the Main Ram, you can orient the hydraulic unit to clear those dogs on the inside of the frame rails and pull it out. It’s common that it’s froze in that Bore, even on well cared units. I always clean them up with a small die grinder and heavy dose of bearing grease upon reinstallation.
Picture for clarification, Remove that cotter key and that rod (with some help) needs to come out, and then you can remove the hydraulic unit. I have some large chisels that I use to persuade it, work from side to side till it decides to cooperate.
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Thank you, Hiball! That really helps. I was overthinking the process. I will continue soaking the cotter key hole and hopefully within next several days would be able to push the cotter pins through. I broke of the loop as I could not unbend the tails from the other side (they also appear to be rust-glued to the surface on the other side.
Using a pair of side cutters and leveraging against that swivel joint should make quick work of that cotter key, if the rust has taken hold just clip both sides flush and punch the remnants out once you get in a vise.
That Rod is rough... that’s going to be a complete loss I’m sure.
The tails are on the other side and the piece broke off completely. I will soak it for couple of days and push it through with a punch.
About the complete loss: you think just the rod will need a replacement or the whole hydraulic unit?
If this is just the rod, I hope that the design of the hydraulic unit did not change too much. I looked up the available parts from the Weaver - S6633 rod is available at 92.64 (with the ram assembly AS-6633 available at 215.46)
About the complete loss: you think just the rod will need a replacement or the whole hydraulic unit?
If this is just the rod, I hope that the design of the hydraulic unit did not change too much. I looked up the available parts from the Weaver - S6633 rod is available at 92.64 (with the ram assembly AS-6633 available at 215.46)
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I hate to speculate, but that rod when the jack is n the down position is protected inside that cylinder, to see it at full extension and in that shape doesn’t inspire a lot of confidence. Honestly you won’t know till you put eyes on the inside.
The core design of the weaver hydraulic jacks hasn’t changed much, with exception of the 2 ton models. When you get to that point you will just need to take some measurements and go from there, if memory serves the differences are mainly on the pump piston bore/rod size.
Thank you, Hiball. Once I get to it, I will post the measurements. Conveniently enough I bought a Mitutoyo digital caliper on yard sale this year and got lucky since the only things wrong with it were old batteries and a lot of dirt.
My jack is more likely to be a 2 ton model
My jack is more likely to be a 2 ton model
Not sure if I will have time to work on the jack this week, but made some interesting process. I could not read much the emblem due to severe deterioration. I could make majority of the sign Weaver on top. There were some indentations from letters, but I was unable to make a picture using pencil (like when you make a drawing of the coin by putting it under the piece of paper and using fast pencil movements).
I got another idea today: if once uses light and certain angles in the dark room, you might see some shadows and outlines.
I was able to get the following (writing by lines, can not confirm that everything is correct as some was guessing the letters)
WEAVER
UTILITY
LO-HYDROULIC JACK (this is possibly LO-HI-DRAULIC JACK)
Capacity Five Thousand Pounds
Weaver MFG CO
___ series _____ (can not read majority of this line)
PAT
The bottom of the emblem is deteriorated... I will try again at some time, but this is the best I could have done
The code I found on hydraulic unit top is CN R (not sure if there is an L or underline or other symbol in between; almost can imagine and L there)
Thus may be it's a version of UTILITY Jack which is on the top of the first paper advertisements on the second post of this thread.
I got another idea today: if once uses light and certain angles in the dark room, you might see some shadows and outlines.
I was able to get the following (writing by lines, can not confirm that everything is correct as some was guessing the letters)
WEAVER
UTILITY
LO-HYDROULIC JACK (this is possibly LO-HI-DRAULIC JACK)
Capacity Five Thousand Pounds
Weaver MFG CO
___ series _____ (can not read majority of this line)
PAT
The bottom of the emblem is deteriorated... I will try again at some time, but this is the best I could have done
The code I found on hydraulic unit top is CN R (not sure if there is an L or underline or other symbol in between; almost can imagine and L there)
Thus may be it's a version of UTILITY Jack which is on the top of the first paper advertisements on the second post of this thread.
Thank you, Don. If anything is left, you can try what I did: dark garage and tiny flashlight to put limited light from different angles. Human eye can distinguish a surprising amount of shadows of grey. One day I might try to use a pencil to outline the letters I see.
pelletman
Well-known member
Shelby,
I love the jack! I have a Weaver WA-72 that is one of my favorites (have a bunch of old jacks) that I have rebuilt and while I don't have the experience of Hiball I can usually figure stuff out. Most of the issues are pretty simple. If your jack was mine, I would dump it in a mixture of water and molasses 10 to 1 ratio for a month or so -outside, covered, it smells. It will derust as well as Evaporust for much less money.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325480
I suspect your jack is mechanically very similar to mine, as long as the piston isn't destroyed (and that CAN be repaired - just a question of how much you want to spend) and won't be too difficult to rebuild. Oh, and I am in central Massachusetts. I'll send a PM..
I love the jack! I have a Weaver WA-72 that is one of my favorites (have a bunch of old jacks) that I have rebuilt and while I don't have the experience of Hiball I can usually figure stuff out. Most of the issues are pretty simple. If your jack was mine, I would dump it in a mixture of water and molasses 10 to 1 ratio for a month or so -outside, covered, it smells. It will derust as well as Evaporust for much less money.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325480
I suspect your jack is mechanically very similar to mine, as long as the piston isn't destroyed (and that CAN be repaired - just a question of how much you want to spend) and won't be too difficult to rebuild. Oh, and I am in central Massachusetts. I'll send a PM..
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Thank you, Pelletman. Please post the picture of your jack completed and the emblem (trying to decipher mine).
Thank you for encouragement - will hopefully get to removing hydraulic unit soon.
I got a little busy this week - hopefully can return to it next week.
Thank you for encouragement - will hopefully get to removing hydraulic unit soon.
I got a little busy this week - hopefully can return to it next week.
pelletman
Well-known member
Thank you, Pelletman! Looks great!
Old jacks are unique because they were built to last unlike many modern ones. I would love in the future to add Walkman 740and Blackhawk S4 to my garage.
I in general like a lot of old tools and toolboxes. Besides some of them being not as good as modern ones, the style often makes up for it. Plus it always makes me feel good to save an old tool and use it!
Old jacks are unique because they were built to last unlike many modern ones. I would love in the future to add Walkman 740and Blackhawk S4 to my garage.
I in general like a lot of old tools and toolboxes. Besides some of them being not as good as modern ones, the style often makes up for it. Plus it always makes me feel good to save an old tool and use it!
Love this jack.....I used to have a WA-72 but had to get rid of when I moved to a smaller place with a tiny 1 car garage. I have had great luck removing rust using electrolysis. Im sure other methods work well too but I just can't seem to try them as my results have been outstanding. Will be watching this thread closely.....keep up the good work.
What ever became of this project?
Still sitting in my garage. Not long ago I almost got another parts jack of the same model (I should have been smarter and just travelled 4h one way instead of waiting - got sold the moment I got a generous offer from one of GJ members to help bring it half way to me)
I am in the process of trying to get an relatively inexpensive Weaver WA-72 jack (earlier model, not in the greatest shape) from another state - I want to see if missing/rusty parts are ballpark the same size (in which case I can either order them from the company or use a newer jack for parts). There was a fire in the Weaver factory in the 50s and unfortunately a lot of documentation (including one for Utility jacks of the same vintage) got destroyed
However, I keep looking for another Weaver Utility j https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/weaver-wa-72-restoration.344867/ack (missed one - means there is likely another one somewhere in the country...)
THe biggest unknown here is the condition of the cylinder (ram would likely need to be replaced). However, if I get a WA72, I will entertain the idea of swapping the newer cylinder/assembly in if it fits and the original can not be restored
.... couple of threads for future references
www.garagejournal.com
www.garagejournal.com
www.garagejournal.com
I am in the process of trying to get an relatively inexpensive Weaver WA-72 jack (earlier model, not in the greatest shape) from another state - I want to see if missing/rusty parts are ballpark the same size (in which case I can either order them from the company or use a newer jack for parts). There was a fire in the Weaver factory in the 50s and unfortunately a lot of documentation (including one for Utility jacks of the same vintage) got destroyed
However, I keep looking for another Weaver Utility j https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/weaver-wa-72-restoration.344867/ack (missed one - means there is likely another one somewhere in the country...)
THe biggest unknown here is the condition of the cylinder (ram would likely need to be replaced). However, if I get a WA72, I will entertain the idea of swapping the newer cylinder/assembly in if it fits and the original can not be restored
.... couple of threads for future references
Weaver wa-72 restoration
so i picked up this a few months ago. Finally had a minute to take it apart and see what we have here. Its a mess, but should clean up ok. So far one broken piece, and the rear wheels look beat up, maybe will get new springs too?
www.garagejournal.com
Weaver WA-72 Jack Repair & Resto
I had my brother buy this for me in MN a couple weeks ago and finally got it home this weekend. Man, this thing is a beast! After a quick bath with the pressure washer, I started poking around to see what I had bought. Seems fairly complete except the ram cover. The ram is dry, which is...
www.garagejournal.com
She's a Squirter! Weaver WA-72 Jack Problem
Hello everyone, First post here. I have a Weaver WA-72A 2 ton jack that is giving me problems. When I got it it wouldn't jack up at all, I found the ball weight missing, Y in the diagram, the balls are good, and are 1/2" and 5/16" as specified. I called weaver and they said make one out...
www.garagejournal.com