bagged89s10
Well-known member
Anyone heard of an athol 81 vise with a quick release handle?
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
02superduty
Well-known member
02superduty
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02superduty
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McBrownie
Well-known member
Here is really good source for them. I got one for my No. 19. Fits perfectly and won't rust because it is stainless.
http://www.benchvisejaws.com/prentiss-19-19-1-2-and-20-swivel-vise-pin/
Hemi49
Well-known member
I just finished tuning up a Prentiss 19 double swiveler.....They are a nice vise...I painted mine with Rustoleum Hammered Rosemary®.....
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
Sometimes we are good, sometimes we are lucky and SOMETIMES WE HIT A HOMERUN!!!! I was cleaning up one of the vise stands and I saw writing under the rust. A little wire brushing later??? Voila!! It reads PARKER MERIDEN CT .......PAT 1863. OH YEAH BABY the vise stands were made by PARKER. WOO-HOO!!!!
Here is some patent info
https://www.google.com/patents/US38...ved=0CBsQ6AEwAGoVChMIjtWv476EyAIVg9GACh0xgAY3
ShadowRuleZ
Well-known member
Who's Parker 273 is this?
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5189535590.html
The Parker collar looks like one made by a certain member here who makes a lot of vise parts...
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/tls/5189535590.html
The Parker collar looks like one made by a certain member here who makes a lot of vise parts...
Got my CNC machine fixed again, and had some time before my next run of jaws. I tackled a Athol #79 that has casted in jaws and was built to be mounted on a bench with a clamp under neath the bench. I carved out a new swivel base and copied a Parker brake caliper set up. It's the small one on the left.
The Jaws were casted in and I want to replace them with bolt in sets. Yes it's only a 3" vise but it's a Athol and deserving of a second chance. I took my time cutting the very hard jaws with a carbide end-mill and wanted to see if I could figure out how they casted these inserts in place.
These cast jaws were 5/16 thick and once I cut that much off I seen the knit line of hard steel to cast steel and still do not have a clue how they put these hard inserts in place. So this 3" vise was a practice cutting method for me and I learned what works and what did not. Check out the pattern of hard insert to cast, the hard steel is very shinny compared to the dull cast. The hard insert looks like it was pored and running down the face of my cut pocket.
I have a few vises almost done and will share pictures when finished, I like how the Parker bases finished up and how well they lock down with just one lock down.
Kevin your work kicks *** just like Manning and crew kicks ***!!
02superduty
Well-known member
Thanks McBrownie
topop101
Well-known member
Nice, nice.... It is impossible to achieve sharp edges by hand. To do it right you need a mill or shaper. We do our best. I'm working to correct this with a new tool I picked up. We"ll see if it works.
No it's not, just use a sanding block, stone or files. You can even do it under power just have to make sure the belt/wheel/buff is leaving the edge not entering it.
topop101
Well-known member
Shiftless
Well-known member
Very funny! ....
......
New subscribers to the vise pages need to go back quite a way to understand this.
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
You're right that It's not impossible, just takes practice and patients. You just have to do exactly what you said. Z, I'll get nice crisp corners for you on the next vise i'm working on. I learned a few things about sanding and filing on the Parker that I just finished.
On another note, I think everyone should have a swivel jaw vise in their shop.
The only bad thing is I bet these pins go missing a lot. Anyone have a trick way to chain the pin. I'm thinking some type of C clip like Parkers have for their swivel wrench.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
bagged: I'm trying to wrap up a Cman resto. Gonna try your method for making the hub and handle shiny. I don't think I'll have the patience to make it mirror-like.
jakemac
Well-known member
Here's how the military did it on that Reed ordinance vise Joe had a few months ago.
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Vantastic
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bagged89s10
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bagged89s10
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bagged89s10
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Nuts
Well-known member
I have a Wilton 835 with an ear missing on the swivel base. Are replacement bases available?
Also is there a proper gray paint for early Wiltons?
Thanks Nuts
Also is there a proper gray paint for early Wiltons?
Thanks Nuts
You're right that It's not impossible, just takes practice and patients. You just have to do exactly what you said. Z, I'll get nice crisp corners for you on the next vise i'm working on. I learned a few things about sanding and filing on the Parker that I just finished.
On another note, I think everyone should have a swivel jaw vise in their shop.
The only bad thing is I bet these pins go missing a lot. Anyone have a trick way to chain the pin. I'm thinking some type of C clip like Parkers have for their swivel wrench.
Nice Reed
BriSco
Member
Hi, new to this forum. I found it while researching my latest garage acquisition.
A Rock Island #574 vise.
I've since torn it down and started cleaning it.
I'll bleadblast and paint it.
The green is just overspray on all the grime.
I notice that is bright yellow inside. Could this be the original color???
A Rock Island #574 vise.
I've since torn it down and started cleaning it.
I'll bleadblast and paint it.
The green is just overspray on all the grime.
I notice that is bright yellow inside. Could this be the original color???
KMScott
Well-known member
Oh boy I am hungry for fried chicken after seeing your tablecloth CRS. In my world CRS means (Cold Rolled Steel)
Thanks Nick, I wish I had more time for the fun stuff, I am always behind. I am betting this is Manning's last year.
Sharp edges on casting are susceptible to chipping, I like breaking the edges some, doesn't take away to much of the looks. I just machined a anvil on a Parker #22 and it had plenty of hammer chips. I will break the edges some, do you really leave sharp edges Zkling? Maybe get away with it on Wilton's since they are not beat on to much but I will round these on this C1 and Parker just a bit. I have the luxury of either milling or grinding these anvils, kind of depends on what machine is open.Including how to round over edges.
Is TriJeff also a student of yours?
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Hi, new to this forum. I found it while researching my latest garage acquisition.
A Rock Island #574 vise.
I've since torn it down and started cleaning it.
I'll bleadblast and paint it.
The green is just overspray on all the grime.
I notice that is bright yellow inside. Could this be the original color???
I would highly doubt yellow is the original color. Nice Rock Island, if thats your first pull at acquiring a nice vintage vise you hit a home run!
va.grouseman
Well-known member
BriSco,---Very nice Rock Island.---Perfect garage size.---Need to find you the Birtman Electric Emblem that goes where those little holes are in the side of the body, for full restore, unless it's going to be your beater.---Nice score.
O no, as I am sure you are well aware there is a big difference between breaking a edge and rounding an edge unevenly to the point of convexing a surface. The latter is visually hightened by a finer surface finish. I've just seen so much of it on firearms it just bothers me on anything that should have had a machined surface. Worst is when people get carried away buffing and oblong holes, engravings, etc.
At times when something is so worn there is only so much one can do. I just find it a bit sad to see something that was crip, clean and flat be restored into a wavy object.
BTW, is that anvil horn pressed in? Looks like the top of the block is cracked.
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KMScott
Well-known member
Yes the horn is pressed in, it is not part of the casting, if it was it would not last long, and yes there is a short fracture, I still pondering what I am going to do about it. I might add a piece of heat treated S7 so to protect the anvil from further damage and make a stronger anvil like the old 2" Wilton's.
You mentioned guns, back when I was a mold welder and repairman in the 80's I welded up the action on a old Mauser and reground and fit the wore out piece where I thought it should be, the owner took my work and filed and wired wheeled the piece and told me it was too precision. That was the last time I worked on any guns.
bagged89s10
Well-known member
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
KMScott: My mother had a funny way of naming her kids. That's not actually a tablecloth. It's a tea towel. They work so well as shop cloths that I went to an estate sale on half-priced linens day and I .....uhhh, never mind.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
Update on the RED Parker 52.
It's out of the soup, 99% free of rust and paint.
Before.
Now.
The jaw-pin is driven out, only 1 on the fixed side. Add that to parts needed list.
The threaded 'pin' that fixes the movable-jaw on the dynamic side, turned out to be a broken bolt. The hours spent in the 'e-soup' helped rid the rust and crud that held it fast.
As it turned out, it worked loose and popped out; it was not threaded into the jaw - as I feared.
The jaw inserts took an additional trip to the CM Block wire wheeler.
The clean up revealed a couple of issues. Also, what's the purpose of the boss with small hole? It appears to align with jaw swivel-pin on the jaw's bottom. (Pictured 4 pictures above)
Maybe the missing tapered pin, allowed the jaw to move under force and broke the movable jaw's rather thin outer edges, pictured above and below.
I like the Kroil finish look, maybe I'll keep it 'naked'!
Above - The main nut needs to be secured with a nut pin (which was missing, and probably had something to due with the negotiated price, along with the remoteness - Mexico, NY). Another part added to parts needed list.
For now, the movable jaw-pin is another bolt; until I can get a tapered pin made up. Maybe with a chain to keep it with the vise, so it doesn't wander off. I wonder if the boss with small hole, once served to tether a pin.
The remaining parts to be found/made/adapted are the base, through bolt, and large wing nut to secure it to a bench.
Thanks for looking.
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
It's out of the soup, 99% free of rust and paint.
Before.
Now.
The jaw-pin is driven out, only 1 on the fixed side. Add that to parts needed list.
The threaded 'pin' that fixes the movable-jaw on the dynamic side, turned out to be a broken bolt. The hours spent in the 'e-soup' helped rid the rust and crud that held it fast.
As it turned out, it worked loose and popped out; it was not threaded into the jaw - as I feared.
The jaw inserts took an additional trip to the CM Block wire wheeler.
The clean up revealed a couple of issues. Also, what's the purpose of the boss with small hole? It appears to align with jaw swivel-pin on the jaw's bottom. (Pictured 4 pictures above)
Maybe the missing tapered pin, allowed the jaw to move under force and broke the movable jaw's rather thin outer edges, pictured above and below.
I like the Kroil finish look, maybe I'll keep it 'naked'!
Above - The main nut needs to be secured with a nut pin (which was missing, and probably had something to due with the negotiated price, along with the remoteness - Mexico, NY). Another part added to parts needed list.
For now, the movable jaw-pin is another bolt; until I can get a tapered pin made up. Maybe with a chain to keep it with the vise, so it doesn't wander off. I wonder if the boss with small hole, once served to tether a pin.
The remaining parts to be found/made/adapted are the base, through bolt, and large wing nut to secure it to a bench.
Thanks for looking.
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
Figured that I would toss up a pic of the Simples 61S mounted and ready for work.
That's awesome. Does power run thru the floor into the stand?
Would it serve the purpose of reducing chipping to put a 45 degree chamfer on the edges? I think it might look better; more "supposed to be that way" than a roundover. Just a thought.
KMScott
Well-known member
Would it serve the purpose of reducing chipping to put a 45 degree chamfer on the edges? I think it might look better; more "supposed to be that way" than a roundover. Just a thought.
I agree. a 45 degree bevel is a good choice, also gives you a line in case you want to paint it.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
While the e-tank is unoccupied, I thought what's next for the treatment?
After a lot of de-greasing, this Reed 32 was readied for the tank.
Before.
Now.
Lots and lots of old grease removed, but the big parts are in the 'soup' to help with paint removal, more than e-de-rusting. There didn't seem to be a lot of that.
Thanks for looking.
Comments ans suggestions are welcome.
After a lot of de-greasing, this Reed 32 was readied for the tank.
Before.
Now.
Lots and lots of old grease removed, but the big parts are in the 'soup' to help with paint removal, more than e-de-rusting. There didn't seem to be a lot of that.
Thanks for looking.
Comments ans suggestions are welcome.
va.grouseman
Well-known member
Well I missed out on Balane's little baby #20 EBay Parker.---I was just sure at $199.00 it was going to come to Papa.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262042474427?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262042474427?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
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