BlueHeart
Well-known member
How's this Saturday for you?
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
How's this Saturday for you?
I thought about that as well, but being a tilting motor plate I'm not sure if you could actually shift the motor up and have the tilt work correctly. At the very least, it might require a spring to offset the higher center of gravity. Clearly I'm not a mechanical engineer...
motox4evr
Member
What would be crazy money for that contraption?
Can you double-check that number? I don't recognize that as a drill press model.
Regardless, most Craftsman 100 drill press manuals will be very close. Based only on the style of the motor mount, I believe that is an early 100 repainted closer to the late 100 power bronze color.
Early 100 model numbers (1946(?) to 1955):
- 103.23130 or 23131 are bench models
- 103.23140 or 23141 are floor standing models
I never could figure out what the change in the last digit signifies.
I use this manual often because it is a good quality scan: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4779.pdf
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Rushton
Well-known member
FrankLee, thank you very much! I pick up the drill press on Friday so I'll be able to re-check the model number then.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Basically what the DP is worth without the gizmo. Without knowing exactly what it does, it could be a "take this off" situation.
Ex - basically the swinging gate plate wile take the motor as high or low as it will go. Should be no issues.
motox4evr
Member
The second one looks to be somewhat neglected, but in better condition than the first. The pictures are not clear, but the original paint looks decent. It has the Multi-Speed Attachment and what looks like pieces of a Craftsman tool lamp.
The quill is fully extended, so a possible issue with the return spring. Perhaps it just needs to be adjusted.
What price are they asking for each?
motox4evr
Member
sorry for the delay. the one first one with the vari-slo was 150$. the second one the guy wants 175$. at the end of the day, i dont mind fixing up either, i just need a drill press. thoughts?
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I would get the second one with the factory 3 pulley set up and not bother with the cobbled together varislow assembly that is not factory. Try to get the floor model for $125 and you should be ok!
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honza.vosalik
Well-known member
Found this listed locally, seller asking $250. IMO a little pricy.
Why is that motor angled?
Why is that motor angled?
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lafester
Well-known member
Looks complete and not beat to hell. Should clean up nice. Not sure what is going on with the center pulley...
That is a bit high but the cheap ones are few and far between. If that is an original pulley then i would make an offer.
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IMO, I agree that the second machine is the better one. You could use the rust and return spring issues as negotiating points.
motox... please update your profile with your general location. Prices on these machines will vary by region.
Yeah, I also think it's priced high.
That center pulley is not original.
The motor/belts should be squared to the pulley spindles, but there is a custom pivot built onto the mount rods. The motor belt is too short for that pivot add-on.
If you pursue that dp, check for excessive wear on the motor pulley. The edge of the pulley can wear to a sharp edge when belts are not aligned correctly.
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406Rich
Well-known member
Offer him less, see if he will bite..!
motox4evr
Member
Hey guys. Who knew it would be this difficult? After this post I will try to update my location. Are my prices high or low? Found this one this morning. its 250$ guy says its been sitting for 5 years. What do you think?
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That is a beautiful machine! If I needed one, I'd have bought that one already.
Is the price high? Yes. IMO, the condition justifies the price. You'll definitely get dissenting opinions, but you'd likely never find a nicer one in that original condition. I've sold several reconditioned drill presses for more than that.
Regardless of which machine you choose, verify that runout is not excessive. Use missing, broken, rust, noise, etc as negotiating points.
Frank, I've never seen a lamp like that on a CM drill press. Is that a factory accessory, or a custom add-on?
sheltonfilms
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 157
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I agree with Frank. The paint on it looks fantastic. I see a little rust of the column, the table machine surface, and some imperfections on the handle surface, but all of that is pretty much expected on units this old.
As frank says check for runout, also check when the drill is running with no load for a clank,clank,clank sound. This indicates worn spindle pulley splines. You can also feel this by grabbing the spindle pulley and the chuck and start rotating the pulley back and forth to check for play.
To me the spindle pulley is one of the most critical parts to check (and also one of the most expensive parts on eBay if you need to replace it).
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I agree with Frank. The paint on it looks fantastic. I see a little rust of the column, the table machine surface, and some imperfections on the handle surface, but all of that is pretty much expected on units this old.
As frank says check for runout, also check when the drill is running with no load for a clank,clank,clank sound. This indicates worn spindle pulley splines. You can also feel this by grabbing the spindle pulley and the chuck and start rotating the pulley back and forth to check for play.
To me the spindle pulley is one of the most critical parts to check (and also one of the most expensive parts on eBay if you need to replace it).
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Condition of the table is unknown (based on the wood block it could be pristine, or hacked to death...)
Based on the motor pulley position I don't think it has a middle pulley, so if you are needing this for large holes in steel you need to be able to slow it down. The 4 speed units are essentially wood working drills.
Cosmetic condition looks great, but I don't agree it justifies the price by itself.
Rushton
Well-known member
Frank, I picked up the Model 100 drill press today and the model number is off by a digit. The correct model number is 103.24811. The motor's model number is 115.19780, serial number S-7722.
It has the same conical lock handles as my Model 150 and similar 3-handle feed handle but with the small diameter threads, so I assume this is a later DP in the Model 100 series. Any idea as to the time period other than late-1950s to early-1960s?
Very nice condition after being completely stripped down, de-rusted and painted by the person from whom I purchased it; my sister is now it's third owner.
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Ok, that makes a little more sense.
Model 103.24811 is catalog number 2481. That catalog number was available in the 1956 and 1957 catalogs... maybe '58, but I don't believe that catalog exists.
Is there any evidence that it was originally gray? I'm thinking that with the threaded 3/8-16 hub, that would be an earlier '56 version.
Rushton
Well-known member
It was intentionally painted bronze; the person I bought it from was very clear that he'd chosen to use the power bronze paint to match those era machines which led me to believe he changed color from whatever the original paint was (presumably gray).
Thanks for referencing the time period for the threaded 3/8-16 hub. I thought that might be another indicator. My sister will be able to have fun with friends sharing that the drill press is older than she is!
Thanks for referencing the time period for the threaded 3/8-16 hub. I thought that might be another indicator. My sister will be able to have fun with friends sharing that the drill press is older than she is!
dp#42
I just got home with dp#42, a model 103.23141. It has very nice original paint and table top. It also came equipped with an unbranded cast iron vise, a custom switch cable, an accessory tray, and yes, that's a Delta retirement lamp.
This is the Korean War era version sans head frame panel and chrome plated parts. The date code K2 52 on the motor supports that estimate.
5/31/2018
I just finished reconditioning dp#42... another very nice one!
I just got home with dp#42, a model 103.23141. It has very nice original paint and table top. It also came equipped with an unbranded cast iron vise, a custom switch cable, an accessory tray, and yes, that's a Delta retirement lamp.
This is the Korean War era version sans head frame panel and chrome plated parts. The date code K2 52 on the motor supports that estimate.
5/31/2018
I just finished reconditioning dp#42... another very nice one!
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Cleaning and Polishing Bolt Heads and Screw Heads
I'm not exactly sure when the feed handles switched from 3/8-16 to 1/2-13 threads. Once, I did have a very late original power bronze 100 with several of the 150 features including the 1/2-13 feed handles.
It was intentionally painted bronze; the person I bought it from was very clear that he'd chosen to use the power bronze paint to match those era machines which led me to believe he changed color from whatever the original paint was (presumably gray).
Thanks for referencing the time period for the threaded 3/8-16 hub. I thought that might be another indicator. My sister will be able to have fun with friends sharing that the drill press is older than she is!
I'm not exactly sure when the feed handles switched from 3/8-16 to 1/2-13 threads. Once, I did have a very late original power bronze 100 with several of the 150 features including the 1/2-13 feed handles.
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motox4evr
Member
ok, so here is the story. i ended up buying this one, because it really is in pretty good shape, and that these people could communicate via email. here are the pics. good side, it really is pretty clean, i don't think that the motor is original, nor this on off switch. bad side, it does have some play, i am trying to figure out if it is the quill or the chuck. the motor is quiet, because it seems new. the light has to go, unless someone says its a craftsman piece. can someone please direct me to the proper thread for disassembly? can the spindle be taken apart and inspected/cleaned? are there bearings or bushings around it? the numbers are 103.24511, would that be 62-64? looking forward to hearing what everyone has to say. also ended up picking up a wilton 645 vise and a 1/3 hp old craftsman grinder.
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motox4evr
Member
Excellent trifecta!
The first post in this thread has links to topics that will guide you through dismantling. Begin with the "Spotter's Guide" post and the "Evolution" post to determine the vintage of your machine. Then, follow the posts relevant to your machine; 100 vs 150, early vs late.
You can find a scan of the owners manual on that vintage machines website.
What do you mean by "some play"? Please describe.
I believe the motor is original; the switch and lamp are not.
All 15-1/2" King-Seeley 103 (and Emerson 113) machines have ball bearings which can be replaced. The quill/spindle assembly is easily removed for cleaning. You will likely need a press and/or puller to dismantle the assembly, but it may not be necessary.
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motox4evr
Member
thanks guys for the write ups. love getting up and reading your thoughts. so you think the motor is original? was 250$ too much? i bought it from 2 sisters who are really cool. they watched me try to figure out how to turn it on, funny. wow, it looks and sounds brand new. so everyone is cool with me ditching the on/off switch and lamp? is no swivel table a bad thing?trying to find a picture of what a correct on/off switch looks like. so much to do, but it looks like fun.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Correct on-off switches were often up to the owner to install; many had it on the motor from the factory, but few were in a "good" place... That one, if turned 90 degrees, seems as well placed as most I've seen...
The newer Craftsman cradle/resilient mount motors did not come equipped with a switch. There were optional accessory switches available.
This switch replaced the terminal cover on the motor.
This was also an optional accessory which was essentially a single outlet power strip.
Whatever switch or lamp you use is really personal preference. I use a foot switch and a magnetic base lamp.
I've never had the need to use the tilt feature on my table. An angle vise could satisfy most angle drilling requirements on a non-tilting table.
454ragtop
Well-known member
Tried to post this earlier, but the site was wonky and shut down as I posted. I had that same drill press with the same motor https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328696
it's original near as I can tell. I swear I've seen that switch before, almost think it was in a Sears catalog. Not something I would have bought, a lot of this safety **** drives me crazy, but still thought it was pretty ingenious.
Used this light on the last drill press I restored https://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial...302316?hash=item3ae9b8c02c:g:7GYAAOSwpONZXNbf just stuck the magnet to the bottom side of the head, worked out good.
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lafester
Well-known member
You guys are doing great with all the new presses. Nothing around here although my lathe collection just grew by one as I found a king seeley for $25 tonight. Missing the damn tool rest though so that price will probably triple when I find one. There is a dulap for sale cheap, maybe the tool rest will fit mine.
I have seen a couple beat up dps but nothing worth going after.
I have seen a couple beat up dps but nothing worth going after.
honza.vosalik
Well-known member
sheltonfilms
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 157
So my Dunlap arrived today
Is the pulley supposed to do this?
Not too familiar with the bushing bearing presses but looks like the quill is coming up and touching the spindle.
Bushing could be worn and allowing too much axial movement.
Take the model number and look up the manual on vintage machinery. Make sure all the snap rings are in place that the exploded view shows.
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So my Dunlap arrived today
Is the pulley supposed to do this?
Yeah, that does not sound good.
When you lower the quill, grab the chuck and try to move it side-to-side, do you feel any movement or looseness?
I would be dismantling and checking the sleeve bearings. The pulley should not be lifting like that. Perhaps it is not seated onto the spline sleeve or the previous owner replaced with an incorrect parts.
Check the post in the link below and compare with your machine during disassembly.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5658352&post5658352
Installation of sleeve bearings are a little more involved. Usually they need to be reamed to the final size after being pressed in.
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honza.vosalik
Well-known member
Thanks for the advice! The next step will be dismantling it and see what is going on. The closest manual I was able to find is the 103.23620, so I should be able to go from there. Now I just need to find some time to get on it...
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=1787
honza.vosalik
Well-known member
So here's an observation - compared with picture #10 from your link, looks like someone changed the bearing (?) and put two spacers to keep the pulley up, however the spacers are not keeping the pulley high enough. I assume now I need to figure out where to get more spacers.
