let's see your craftsman block grinders

bubinga · Nov 10, 2018

Rabid Badger said:
Thanks guys.

This is the paint I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YVWLA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019K1YD2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I was going to use the usual gray but the wife saw the red and insisted.

At Least she supports you instead of busting your stones, :thumbup:

"Don't you have one of those"?

WWShop · Nov 10, 2018

Rabid Badger;7524367 I was going to use the usual gray but the wife saw the red and insisted.[/QUOTE said:
Ohhhh?? So it was actually your wife who did the restoration and you're just taking credit for her amazing work!! Just kidding!

drivesitfar · Nov 10, 2018

WW: I rarely use the eye shields and this old craftsman pre block grinder has been sitting on a shelf waiting for me to find a spot for it. so I guess the answer is no i haven't tried to find any.

Rapid: your bride has good taste in men and colors cause you've got skills. :thumbup:

beltdrive · Nov 10, 2018

So I picked up a 1/2 horse 1959 craftsman block grinder last night...drove an hour in the rain to Narragansett RI....THING IS BEAUTIFUL CONDITION ON THE STAND....industrial rated with lamp and eye shields. Question....it has a 220 plug on it. Is there anything I have to do to make it run 110? I keep buying these and trading up...the late 50s are freaking awesome.

PS grinder shows both voltages on the label and says dual voltage.

beltdrive · Nov 10, 2018

This is a pic of the 1966 1/2 hp industrial rating. Cord is spliced in the middle and a 220 plug is on the end. Need to revert back to 110......???

drivesitfar · Nov 10, 2018

Belt: I wish you were closer cause i've been thinking of changing my industrial model 1/2's to 220. until some of the experts chime in I think if I recall correctly that the wiring diagram is under the bottom plate if you want to rewire it back to 110. if you can plug it in a 220 and tell me (us) how it runs i'd appreciate it. a year or two ago we had a long discussion on this thread about changing 110's to 220's if you want to look for it.

good luck and nice find!!

torqueman2002 · Nov 10, 2018

beltdrive said:
This is a pic of the 1959 1/2 hp industrial rating. Cord is spliced in the middle and a 220 plug is on the end. Need to revert back to 110......???

Belt - like Drives ^^ said, there is probably a dual voltage wiring diagram under the bottom cover.

I may also have a picture, if you can post the model number.

Nice find!
:beer:

Negen · Nov 10, 2018

beltdrive said:
This is a pic of the 1959 1/2 hp industrial rating. Cord is spliced in the middle and a 220 plug is on the end. Need to revert back to 110......???

Are you sure that is 1959? Mine is identical and stamped 1969 on the inside of the bottom plate. Or did they just look the same adjective that long. I know mine is aluminum where some are iron. Mine also has dual voltage diagram on the inside.

Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app

beltdrive · Nov 10, 2018

drivesitfar said:
Belt: I wish you were closer cause i've been thinking of changing my industrial model 1/2's to 220. until some of the experts chime in I think if I recall correctly that the wiring diagram is under the bottom plate if you want to rewire it back to 110. if you can plug it in a 220 and tell me (us) how it runs i'd appreciate it. a year or two ago we had a long discussion on this thread about changing 110's to 220's if you want to look for it.

good luck and nice find!!

I do not have a way to plug into a 220. I have not seen the unit run...bought it on faith. But i ALSO GOT in the package a Red wing huge jelly-bean shaped 1950'sish buffer that hummed really sweetly and a delta 1950s scroll saw - with belt drive motor in a cabinet - in minty condition. 200 for all, including a pile of clamps and some old scrap hardwood.

beltdrive · Nov 10, 2018

If yours is aluminum it is 69ish I would think. This one is the old cast iron. The switch should be different among other things. The date code on mine is 19590

Negen · Nov 10, 2018

Thanks for clearing that up

Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app

beltdrive · Nov 10, 2018

I was incorrect on the year...in looking at this (i just now unloaded it) it has a stamp of 1966 on the bottom. I do have a coupl 1/4 blocks that are 1959...really heavy and spin for over a minute after shut down.

So I dont have time to get to it today but I will take the tray off the bottom tomorrow and see if it says anything. Does your 69 look exactly like it??

Negen · Nov 10, 2018

Looks like this I am unsure if it is 100% original.

Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Negen · Nov 10, 2018

Negen said:
Looks like this I am unsure if it is 100% original.

Sent from my G8141 using The Garage Journal mobile app

Sorry for double post for some reason it said I had no permission to post picture. Low quality pictures.

torqueman2002 · Nov 10, 2018

Belt - I have these pictures of a model 397.19590, like yours.

I'm guessing the mfg date is 'SEP 17 1978'.

rporonga · Nov 12, 2018

MissileBear said:
That one is a 6" wheel.

Thanks for the info. Indeed, it had 6"x3/4" wheels. I ended up buying it. Now I have a couple of questions regarding restoration (397.19430, 5.1 AMP, 1/2 HP)

The sheet metal center part has some rust in the top and back. I was thinking of repainting this part. The label is in good shape with no rust or bubbles around it. Should I just mask it and paint around, or remove it for painting? In the latter case, what is the best approach for removing the adhesive label so that it does not show crease marks from peeling it off?

One of the eye shields has both plastic tabs broken. I have the pieces and could try gluing it back, but it may not be safe. Are there any replacements for these plastic eye shields?

Thanks!

beltdrive · Nov 16, 2018

wow! thrilled to see that diagram. I finally had a chance to open the bottom...and nothing diagram wise.

beltdrive · Nov 16, 2018

No way that is 78....more like 68....the 70s are much different. Thanks for the diagram!!

torqueman2002 · Nov 16, 2018

beltdrive said:
No way that is 78....more like 68....the 70s are much different. Thanks for the diagram!!

That's my thought, too. The stamp is very difficult to make out, and the cover may not be original.

Hmm. I noticed some differences between my 397.19590 and yours.

My Block's badge/label is a 'Crown Top'.

From what I can make out from your picture, the start-up relay appears to be a different design. See my diagram above.

Close up of my Block.

These may be minor revisions, but caution should be used when using the above diagrams for your application.

If I find a diagram closer to your style relay (or the style I think yours uses) I will post it.

May be you can post a pic of your relay with more detail?

beltdrive · Nov 16, 2018

Here's pics of the 66. I believe the crown top to be earlier.

beltdrive · Nov 16, 2018

In the same buy, I picked up the homecraft scroll saw with cabinet and motor, red wing buffer, craftsman grinder stand, and the 66 grinder. 200. So many deals....and so little space left in my garage and basement...

torqueman2002 · Nov 16, 2018

Belt - ".... so little space left in my garage and basement..." That sure sounds familiar! LOL

Nice bit of shopping ^^.

Your Block's relay is one I haven't seen before. I am not sure how it might or might not be like the one I posted. So I'd proceed with caution.

These are potential relays and function differently than the relays used in cars/trucks.

BTW - I looked through several dozen pics I have of various HP & model Blocks and I didn't see a relay like yours or a diagram.

I will search for the info. I have on how these potential relays work and see if I still have examples of how the internals are laid out.

OK - Here's what I have. Hope it helps.

It is my experience, the dual voltage Blocks are of the "Two Circuit" design.

4-terminal /2-circuit relay, similar to the m-397-19590 Block I show above.

3-terminal /1-circuit relay

Another 3-terminal /1-circuit style relay.
démarrage = start-up |sont = are

torqueman2002 · Nov 16, 2018

I found a YouTube video of a down and dirty grinder restoration, complete with a re-winding of the stator!

Warning - non-Block content.

racin72charger · Nov 17, 2018

My recently acquired model 397.21147 1/2hp grinder.

LesserSon · Nov 17, 2018

torqueman2002 said:
I found a YouTube video of a down and dirty grinder restoration, complete with a re-winding of the stator!

Wow, holy cow, etc! The poultry clucks at the very end say it all: I am way too chicken to EVER try that.
Three comments:
That guy has been building motors all his life.
Unless you were incarcerated or marooned AND had free access to all the tools and materials, it would NEVER be cost-effective.
That particular green is a terrible color choice.

But, it DOES demonstrate that NOTHING is ever “beyond repair.”

exmaxima1 · Nov 17, 2018

LesserSon said:
Wow, holy cow, etc! The poultry clucks at the very end say it all: I am way too chicken to EVER try that.
Three comments:
That guy has been building motors all his life.
Unless you were incarcerated or marooned AND had free access to all the tools and materials, it would NEVER be cost-effective.
That particular green is a terrible color choice.

I agree that the color scheme is less than appealing. Running a pair of grinding wheels with no guards just makes my sphincter pucker....

jonshonda · Nov 17, 2018

I was able to utilize my dad to buy this pristine 1/2hp setup. Bought it from the original owner who stated it had maybe been used 4-5 times.

I really want to get some eye shields that have the metal frame around them, and I'm sure torqueman2002 has some nice examples that would really finish this setup off!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/45924012501/in/dateposted-public/" title="Grind1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4910/45924012501_76631ae02c.jpg" width="314" height="500" alt="Grind1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/32052932788/in/dateposted-public/" title="Grind2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4867/32052932788_c999efda6f.jpg" width="314" height="500" alt="Grind2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/45924012281/in/dateposted-public/" title="Grind3"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4817/45924012281_f52cb7f209.jpg" width="413" height="500" alt="Grind3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

bubinga · Nov 17, 2018

rporonga said:
Thanks for the info. Indeed, it had 6"x3/4" wheels. I ended up buying it. Now I have a couple of questions regarding restoration (397.19430, 5.1 AMP, 1/2 HP)

The sheet metal center part has some rust in the top and back. I was thinking of repainting this part. The label is in good shape with no rust or bubbles around it. Should I just mask it and paint around, or remove it for painting? In the latter case, what is the best approach for removing the adhesive label so that it does not show crease marks from peeling it off?

One of the eye shields has both plastic tabs broken. I have the pieces and could try gluing it back, but it may not be safe. Are there any replacements for these plastic eye shields?
Thanks!

Someone in the Know (more about R&R-ing the label) Will Jump in.
If It were me, these days, I'd just mask it and paint it, and be done with it. :thumbup:

SwampCat · Nov 17, 2018

jonshonda said:
I was able to utilize my dad to buy this pristine 1/2hp setup. Bought it from the original owner who stated it had maybe been used 4-5 times.

I really want to get some eye shields that have the metal frame around them, and I'm sure torqueman2002 has some nice examples that would really finish this setup off!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/45924012501/in/dateposted-public/" title="Grind1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4910/45924012501_76631ae02c.jpg" width="314" height="500" alt="Grind1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/32052932788/in/dateposted-public/" title="Grind2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4867/32052932788_c999efda6f.jpg" width="314" height="500" alt="Grind2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/45924012281/in/dateposted-public/" title="Grind3"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4817/45924012281_f52cb7f209.jpg" width="413" height="500" alt="Grind3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Thats an official " YOU **** "

PacificaVette · Nov 17, 2018

bubinga said:
Someone in the Know (more about R&R-ing the label) Will Jump in.
If It were me, these days, I'd just mask it and paint it, and be done with it.

Look up mattblast on the Garage Journal. He makes amazing reproduction labels for Craftsman block grinders.

Here is the thread:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356439

jonshonda · Nov 17, 2018

SwampCat said:
Thats an official " YOU **** "

I'm sure its been covered dozens of times before, but can I trust the original grinding wheels that come with it? What do I look for if I intend to use them?

torqueman2002 · Nov 17, 2018

jonshonda said:
... I'm sure torqueman2002 has some nice examples that would really finish this setup off!/QUOTE]
Funny you should mention that.

How do these look. They are the larger metal framed eye shields, I think.

Good price too - $25 for both AND you get the 1/4-HP m-115.19500 pre-Block free!

Oh, almost forgot. Here's the link (listed 24 hrs ago). --> https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/craftsman-bench-top-grinder/6750845139.html

torqueman2002 · Nov 17, 2018

LesserSon said:
Wow, holy cow, etc! The poultry clucks at the very end say it all: I am way too chicken to EVER try that.
Three comments:
That guy has been building motors all his life.
Unless you were incarcerated or marooned AND had free access to all the tools and materials, it would NEVER be cost-effective.
That particular green is a terrible color choice.

But, it DOES demonstrate that NOTHING is ever “beyond repair.”

There are a lot of so called 'tool restoration' YouTube videos that are little more than a clean-up and repaint.

What impressed me was/is this guy knows his stuff and he has that funky whirligig coil winding tool.

Other than the stator rewinding tool, he does a lot with very little.

I agree, it looks like he's been doing this for a while.

Not my choice of colors, either.

Maineiacmoose · Nov 17, 2018

I'm just going to leave this right here for now.... More to follow.

torqueman2002 · Nov 17, 2018

Maineiacmoose said:
I'm just going to leave this right here for now.... More to follow.

1/2-HP round top Crown Top Block - NIB!
:beer:

jonshonda · Nov 17, 2018

torqueman2002 said:
Funny you should mention that.

How do these look. They are the larger metal framed eye shields, I think.

Good price too - $25 for both AND you get the 1/4-HP m-115.19500 pre-Block free!

It looks like they would clean up well. Let me know if you have some laying around! I owe you at least one purchase for all the work you put into previous email exchanges! :thumbup:

Maineiacmoose · Nov 17, 2018

torqueman2002 said:
1/2-HP round top Crown Top Block - NIB!

Man that didn't take long. NIB indeed the fella opened it to take a picture. I am excited to get it home and have a look-see! I also snagged a NIB table saw he had as well. Weird stuff.

cajunfirehawk · Nov 18, 2018

PacificaVette said:
Look up mattblast on the Garage Journal. He makes amazing reproduction labels for Craftsman block grinders.

Here is the thread:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356439

Matt is also selling his labels on ebay now too, fwiw. :beer:

(under seller id mattssign)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Cr...h=item1cb86929c0:g:ToYAAOSwYwhbW5S7:rk:1:pf:0

LesserSon · Nov 18, 2018

torqueman2002 said:
$25 for both AND you get the 1/4-HP m-115.19500 pre-Block free!

What feature distinguishes a “pre-block” from a “block?” The manufacturer? I don’t see the difference on the outside.

SwampCat · Nov 18, 2018

jonshonda said:
I'm sure its been covered dozens of times before, but can I trust the original grinding wheels that come with it? What do I look for if I intend to use them?

One test is to put loose stone wheel on a screwdriver, like a shishkabob, hold the handle, use another screwdriver handle and strike the stone. If it rings true, its probably good. If it rings dull or flat, toss it.

let's see your craftsman block grinders

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