ILLuSioNz X
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2013
- Messages
- 35
Above 1200 Sq/FT T.h.e...e…x….p…..a……n…….s……..i………o……….n
- Thread starter MAYOR28
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Good News!
We found an insulation contractor, I started adding some more electrical, I ordered the flooring materials, and we found a asphalt contractor to handle the driveway repairs!
Things are moving out. We really need to find some better weather so we can do the floor coating and get everything out of the attached garage. My wife is being very patient, since we cannot set up our home garage gym until we get the floor done in the Shop.
Pics later.
...
We found an insulation contractor, I started adding some more electrical, I ordered the flooring materials, and we found a asphalt contractor to handle the driveway repairs!
Things are moving out. We really need to find some better weather so we can do the floor coating and get everything out of the attached garage. My wife is being very patient, since we cannot set up our home garage gym until we get the floor done in the Shop.
Pics later.
...
Lighting Question:
When installing lights below a metal ceiling, what is the best way to run the wire?
Should I be locating the lights & installing the wires prior to putting the ceiling up?
OR (less desirable),
Should I run conduit between each light, after the ceiling is installed?
...
When installing lights below a metal ceiling, what is the best way to run the wire?
Should I be locating the lights & installing the wires prior to putting the ceiling up?
OR (less desirable),
Should I run conduit between each light, after the ceiling is installed?
...
wasfast
Well-known member
Run the wire prior to installing the panels.
wasfast
Well-known member
It depends on how you do the rough electrical.
1) It's handy to set boxes on the framing and pull the wire through as usual. In that case you'd be doing a decent amount of measuring on the ground.
2) Punch a hole in the sheet metal on the ground, install a grommet in the hole and pull the wire through as you go.
3) Run the wire but don't penetrate the sheet locations until you're done with all the sheets. You can use a step drill to get the locations as you want. You still need to protect the wire from rubbing/touching the sheet metal.
1) It's handy to set boxes on the framing and pull the wire through as usual. In that case you'd be doing a decent amount of measuring on the ground.
2) Punch a hole in the sheet metal on the ground, install a grommet in the hole and pull the wire through as you go.
3) Run the wire but don't penetrate the sheet locations until you're done with all the sheets. You can use a step drill to get the locations as you want. You still need to protect the wire from rubbing/touching the sheet metal.
wasfast
Well-known member
In all cases, I'd have the wire laid out and stapled prior to sheeting.
wasfast
Well-known member
If you direct wire into the fixture, you have a decent amount of locational adjustment that will stay hidden.
Deezler
Well-known member
Or.... you could just run surface conduit. Lots of folks here do it that way, very easy, can make changes at any time in the future, and it really doesn't look too bad if you don't mind the semi-industrial aesthetic.
Well, finally got the contractor sorted, his work is complete, final payment made. All in all I am happy with his work, pissed about his schedule and lack of hustle, or lack of any priority that he gave my job. But the quality of the work seems adequate.
I have been building a list of things to complete, but have not had the chance to write it down. So here it is, in no particular order, this is the Punch List:
1. Insulation
2. Electrical (including 'chair-rail')
3. HVAC
4. Downstairs Flooring (Polyurea)
5. Compressor Room
6. Ceiling Metal
7. Lights (Upstairs and Downstairs)
8. Wainscoting
9. Plywood Wall Coverings
10. Curtain Divider
11. Ceiling Fans
12. 2nd Floor Flooring
13. 2nd floor storage room door
14. 2nd floor ceiling
15. Shutters
16. Lift Installation
17. New Driveway
18. Parking Pad beside shop
19. ?????
That probably isn't everything (pretty sure it isn't), but it is a good list to start.
The current state of the downstairs is depressing me a little. So much stuff to straighten up before the insulators come.....
Upstairs is looking a little better than the downstairs.
And I got a little cubby hole built for some easy access storage.
...
I have been building a list of things to complete, but have not had the chance to write it down. So here it is, in no particular order, this is the Punch List:
1. Insulation
2. Electrical (including 'chair-rail')
3. HVAC
4. Downstairs Flooring (Polyurea)
5. Compressor Room
6. Ceiling Metal
7. Lights (Upstairs and Downstairs)
8. Wainscoting
9. Plywood Wall Coverings
10. Curtain Divider
11. Ceiling Fans
12. 2nd Floor Flooring
13. 2nd floor storage room door
14. 2nd floor ceiling
15. Shutters
16. Lift Installation
17. New Driveway
18. Parking Pad beside shop
19. ?????
That probably isn't everything (pretty sure it isn't), but it is a good list to start.
The current state of the downstairs is depressing me a little. So much stuff to straighten up before the insulators come.....
Upstairs is looking a little better than the downstairs.
And I got a little cubby hole built for some easy access storage.
...
Attachments
wasfast
Well-known member
It might seem a bit backwards but consider finishing off the upstairs and stairs to whatever level of completion you desire. The floor can be last, and should be as a regular home remodel is done.
One other choice on the main floor is to do 1/2 half at a time so things don't have to sit outside.
One other choice on the main floor is to do 1/2 half at a time so things don't have to sit outside.
jask
Well-known member
Depending on your building dept. there may be progressive inspections points that need to be inspected/signed off - ie: foundation, framing/envelope,electrical and plumbing..etc. you want to make sure each permit trade clears those and that you do not get too far in front of the process... don't let your drywall guys close in if you need the inspector to check electrical etc.
and when you are finished ... come build me one too!
Oops!! just went back and saw that you passed final inspection! congratulations! and more pictures would be good
and when you are finished ... come build me one too!
Oops!! just went back and saw that you passed final inspection! congratulations! and more pictures would be good
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and when you are finished ... come build me one too!
Oops!! just went back and saw that you passed final inspection! congratulations! and more pictures would be good
Thanks Jask!
Yeah, I need to take some more photos. I think I forgot to take any of the electrical stuff I added. But maybe I took a couple.
Standby for updates!
...
The insulation was done earlier this week. I was able to get a good deal from my neighbor's insulation 'guy.' Worked out pretty well. They sent 6 guys and they finished it up in about 5 hours!
They did, however, make an absolute mess with the foam gun.
Downstairs work:
And some upstairs:
They did, however, make an absolute mess with the foam gun.
Downstairs work:
And some upstairs:
Attachments
The plan was to complete the floor this weekend. But I am worried that we will not have enough time to get everything done before the weather gets a little colder on Sunday. Therefore, we will be prepping (acid etch) and staining the floor this weekend and putting down the polyurea next Friday.
I had a little trouble with the temperature this morning, so I thought it would be best to bring up the inside temp before I started the Nohr-S topcoat.
The Polyurea topcoat was waaaay thicker than the primer I put down last night. Still only used a 3 gallons and a little bit of the fourth gallon. And I laid it on fairly thick.
I think it looks really good!
The Polyurea topcoat was waaaay thicker than the primer I put down last night. Still only used a 3 gallons and a little bit of the fourth gallon. And I laid it on fairly thick.
I think it looks really good!
Attachments
Sorry, its been a while since I updated here. I have been progressing through some of the smaller details of the build-out. I have been busy with more electrical work inside, and installing the mini-split system.
I hope to have the mini-split up and running later this week, but we'll see how the evening go.
I hope to have the mini-split up and running later this week, but we'll see how the evening go.
I am getting ready to start the interior lining of the shop. The plan is to put up A/C Plywood, in a horizontal running-bond pattern (Brick-like).
My question to the masses is this:
Should I:
...
My question to the masses is this:
Should I:
A. white wash the plywood
B. Lightly stain the plywood
C. Just clear coat the plywood
...
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It really depends on the look you're going after. If it were me, white paint. I painted mine white to reflect the light. In my 750 square feet, I have 3 four tube eight foot T12 florescent's, and 10 four foot twin tube LED's. My wife says she needs sunglasses to work in there. I think it needs two more LED fixtures.
Your mileage may vary.
iced98lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just caught up with your thread Mayor, really fun read with you GC'ing.
As for your poll, I vote A.
As for your poll, I vote A.
Well, its been a while. Sorry about that; I have been too busy trying to get things done in the shop to sit down and document. But I think this is where I left things off, I got a large pile 'o wood delivered (for free ) to cover the walls. Plus some other materials for the ceiling and the compressor room.
Since I bought the nicer plywood (1/2" A/C), I decided it would be a waste to just paint over it, so I tested some white wash mixtures:
I really like the look. We are going to go with 1:2 mix (paint:water), rolled on once the panels are on the wall.
As discussed previously, I knew I would not be able to get the plywood edges to be perfectly uniform, so instead I decided to accentuate the edges. A quick chamfer with the router before hanging them did the trick nicely (more details on this later).
These are screwed all the way in yet, so the edge gaps are a little too prominent. We'll fix that in a little bit.
Starting to look like something:
...
) to cover the walls. Plus some other materials for the ceiling and the compressor room. Since I bought the nicer plywood (1/2" A/C), I decided it would be a waste to just paint over it, so I tested some white wash mixtures:
I really like the look. We are going to go with 1:2 mix (paint:water), rolled on once the panels are on the wall.
As discussed previously, I knew I would not be able to get the plywood edges to be perfectly uniform, so instead I decided to accentuate the edges. A quick chamfer with the router before hanging them did the trick nicely (more details on this later).
These are screwed all the way in yet, so the edge gaps are a little too prominent. We'll fix that in a little bit.
Starting to look like something:
...
Attachments
I then wanted to start the East wall, but since there was going to be a compressor room there, I did that first. (but also I did the wall at the same time, so forgive the mixture of pictures)
Checking for fitment before adding the rest of the walls:
Header up:
Got this door out of the trash, it is a solid core outdoor door; it is an absolute UNIT. I trimmed the bottom threshold off of the door so that the sweep would be flush with the floor. This means if I ever need to roll the compressor out (with the pallet jack), I don't have to pull it over the threshold.
My father and father-in-law helped me hang the door. Turns out I framed the opening a little too big, but that is better than too small.
And then, to help with getting stuff into the second floor, the top of this room will have a floor to stand on. I framed it out with 2x6s. You'll notice the studs in my wall align with the studs in the building wall (did that on purpose)
I still need to get a simple bulb socket or two for inside the room, and then sheath the inside of the exterior walls with OSB, and add some sort of insulation to the room walls (for sound deadening).
...
Checking for fitment before adding the rest of the walls:
Header up:
Got this door out of the trash, it is a solid core outdoor door; it is an absolute UNIT. I trimmed the bottom threshold off of the door so that the sweep would be flush with the floor. This means if I ever need to roll the compressor out (with the pallet jack), I don't have to pull it over the threshold.
My father and father-in-law helped me hang the door. Turns out I framed the opening a little too big, but that is better than too small.
And then, to help with getting stuff into the second floor, the top of this room will have a floor to stand on. I framed it out with 2x6s. You'll notice the studs in my wall align with the studs in the building wall (did that on purpose
)I still need to get a simple bulb socket or two for inside the room, and then sheath the inside of the exterior walls with OSB, and add some sort of insulation to the room walls (for sound deadening).
...
Attachments
jask
Well-known member
looking good! a double layer of 5/8" ( fireguard ) drywall will do double duty in your compressor room, it provides sound deadening mass to the walls and provide a fire resistant surface. What are you doing for ventilation/makeup air?
I haven't really decided yet. Probably just a return vent with a small filter or 2. Or I thought of building a sort of sounds baffle inside behind the vent.
I also plan to install an old furnace blower motor in a cavity above the compressor room, but below the joists. I will turn this into an air scrubber for sawdust.
...
Thank you! I really do like the spiral staircase. I was worried it would be terrible to carry stuff up, but really unless it is a huge rubbermaid bin, then it is fine. Sheets of plywood, no go......ask me how I know.
Now back to work, I got some more HVAC work to do and some plywood to hang!
...
Mikkeli
Well-known member
Good looking project, I already got an idea for my future air compressor "room". Keep posting more photos
Here are some details of the overly-complex plywood hanging process.....
Step 1: Cut to size. (I really do love these Skilsaws, this one is heavy, but it is also heavy-duty)(thanks to the Essential Craftsman for teaching about these saws).
Step 2: Chamfer edges.
Step 3: Pre-Drill edge holes, line-up, and secure.
Step 4: Stand back, appreciate, post to Instagram.
Starting to look like something.
...
Step 1: Cut to size. (I really do love these Skilsaws, this one is heavy, but it is also heavy-duty)(thanks to the Essential Craftsman for teaching about these saws).
Step 2: Chamfer edges.
Step 3: Pre-Drill edge holes, line-up, and secure.
Step 4: Stand back, appreciate, post to Instagram.
Starting to look like something.
...
Attachments
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wasfast
Well-known member
You may want to put some vapor barrier over the ceiling open batts so you're not breathing a bunch of small fiberglass particles.....