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Open End Stress Test Results

Skin

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A lot of discussion here about wrenches and designs. Generally speaking box ends are all largely the same in function and has been described as "the real business end of the wrench" and for the most part, that's true. But what if you're entirely limited to putting all your force on the open end? Who makes the best design? Is there any merit to these fancy designs or are they just ways to part you with more money as they try to tell you your old wrenches that have served you well for countless tasks are inferior?

Other than the plain old wrench jaws, there are essentially two main designs in use today. Just variations of the same goal if you will. One with teeth, and another design where notches are cut out to essentially create off corner engagement between the two open end walls as the fastener is turned. The latter is a sound idea and exactly the way a modern socket functions. I suppose I should mention Cornwell's design since its slightly unique in that they're still using the old fashioned V groove so the bolt, at least in theory, is supported on 4 sides however there is no off corner engagement or teeth. This design has been dropped by most everyone else as the design is inherently weaker than an arch making a failure at the 'V', which is where most of the pressure is, likely.

During lunch I decided to see what I could do with just a few examples on hand. I'd like to add more later but I think this is a good start. The 3 I tested were a MAC Knuckle Saver, a basic Snap-On, and a Snap-On flank drive plus. First a bit of background.

The drive size is 5/8" and the bolt is a grade 8. No pipe was applied, everything was done with just arm strength. I would of loved to of been able to record torque numbers, alas i'm not that sophisticated. Just some "garage tests" so to speak.

Here are the contenders








First the regular Snap-On. This has an open end with a standard smooth design with nothing to obstruct the bolt. This is how most wrenches sold over the counter today are designed.

Moderate force applied to one good pull caused the jaws to spread and rounded the bolt almost instantly. This actually surprised me a bit as I was expecting a little more resistance before the wrench went around.


Here the wrench can be seen going around the bolt.




This is what was left of the corner (other corner looked the same)




Next the MAC Knuckle Saver. This system functions off two barely noticeable cut-outs on both of the jaws toward the open side. In essence the bolt is allowed to slip a little and should, in theory, force off corner engagement on the lower section where most of the force is applied. This system is designed so it can be used with the wrench in either direction.

It took a good single yank but this system too spread and rounded off the bolt fairly quickly. There was absolutely an improvement in gripping before it rounded compared to the standard Snap-On but i'm unsure if this is due to the off corner engagement or more due to the fact that the MAC open end is substantially thicker and as a result should be less prone to spreading. If the latter is the case, and I have a feeling it is, then that would make the "Knuckle Saver" design essentially moot. ***** too because I was eyeballing the new MAC labeled ASD (Proto) copies, which share this open end design with MAC.


The MAC going round the corners




And the damage (again the other corner looked the same)




Lastly, the Snap-On Flank Drive Plus system (often abbreviated FD+). Discussed at length here its been called everything from "the Cadillac of wrenches" to "overrated". This system is essentially Snap-On throwing everything including the kitchen sink at the open end wrench design. In addition to two pronounced cut-outs toward the open end (again to create off corner engagement like a socket) they've formed teeth into the back ends of both jaws. Again this system can be used with the wrench in either direction.

This wrench bit and held like a ******* even after repeated attempts at yanking it with as much force as I could. Essentially the way its been designed is as soon as the bolt tries to round it moves against the teeth and essentially mushrooms into them so while its possible to round the bolt off after repeatedly yanking on the wrench with all your weight, you're essentially shearing off a side of the bolt. Another amazing thing was that the wrench could then be re-installed on the rounded section and would bite again and yes, while it went right around much quicker, it still bit and takes force to due so.


Here you can see the bolt trying to round, the metal in the top right section of the the upper jaw is the bolt mushrooming into the teeth.




And the resulting damage from yanking on it a few times with most of my weight (before I intentionally rounded the bolts). This is the carnage you can expect on a really stuck fastener that you eventually get to break free with the FD+ open end.

The teeth marks. Please ignore the damage to anywhere but the area with the teeth marks, those areas were not damaged by the FD+ wrench.



The area in the red circle is the opposite side of the bolt. where the lower jaw made contact



and this is what happened when I forced it to round off. Picture is of the area where the teeth were engaged.




Some people don't like FD+ due to the fact that it mars the fastener. For show cars/plated fasteners, I absolutely agree, don't get a wrench with teeth. Other systems are fine because there is nothing to dig into the bolt. However for every day use I don't agree about the damage being a big deal. For the most part in general use you'll see 1 light tooth mark and maybe the ghost of a second on a fastener and if you're pulling so hard you cause the fastener to mushroom well guess what, with any other wrench it would of rounded and it would look terrible anyway. The only true difference is the FD+ has a chance to get the job done instead of making you get out the cut-off tool/torch. That's just my 2 cents on that.


I plan to test two other systems at least, one being the Cornwell 4 sided engagement, and the other being the one found on Matco/Armstrong/GW products which allows for off corner engagement on both corners instead of just the leading corner but i'll be extremely surprised if anything comes close to the success of the Flank Drive Plus. Infact if you purchase some Matco 9 series ratcheting wrenches the Taiwanese factory manufacturing them has essentially used a knock-off of flank drive plus instead of the normal opti-torque pro found on American made Matco wrenches. As the saying goes imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

Lastly I think its very much worth mentioning that I was initially going to test 13mm bolts however the MAC and flank drive plus actually sheared the bolts off rather than rounding so, at least for good conditioned fasteners in smaller sizes, it seems a bit of a wash. However for smaller fasteners that are heavily corroded or partially rounded i'd absolutely opt for FD+. To me Snap-On is certainly justified in claiming they have the best wrenches on the market.
 
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Buckgnarly

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One of the things that there is no "Kool-aid". The FD+ simply are the best out there, period.:thumbup:
 

Bullitt427

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marlinspike

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That said, just because a tool doesn't use the bolt-ruining teeth, doesn't mean it won't grab better than the other two. In the magazine test that's been around the forums, the open end of a Hazet 13mm was able to do 49Nm more than a Snap-On 13mm.
 

Hiball

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That said, just because a tool doesn't use the bolt-ruining teeth, doesn't mean it won't grab better than the other two. In the magazine test that's been around the forums, the open end of a Hazet 13mm was able to do 49Nm more than a Snap-On 13mm.

I'm sorry.. But it does... Any open ended wrench will spread if enough force is applied. My memory may be a little fuzzy.. But wasn't that test on the box end?
 

marlinspike

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I'm sorry.. But it does... Any open ended wrench will spread if enough force is applied. My memory may be a little fuzzy.. But wasn't that test on the box end?

No, they tested both ends. Hazet was the winner at the open end at 184Nm and the loser was a Metrinch at 94Nm. Wrenches are not all created equal.

I get that FD+ has a place, but at 184Nm on a 13mm head, I'll never have a need for more.
 

CWP1616L

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Is that a hardware store bolt? The reason why I ask is because I often see a lot more slop between my Snap-on wrenches and hardware store fasteners. Not the same thing with factory automotive fasteners or other high quality fasteners like Jergens flange nuts. There's practically no slop at all when I put my open end on a Jergens flange nut.
 

Hammell

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Thanks for the testing, very impartial. its appreciated.

I wonder how Wright wright grips would stack up?
 
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Skin

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No, they tested both ends. Hazet was the winner at the open end at 184Nm and the loser was a Metrinch at 94Nm. Wrenches are not all created equal.

I get that FD+ has a place, but at 184Nm on a 13mm head, I'll never have a need for more.

I have full sets of Hazet wrenches, i'll throw one in just for you. The problem with your logic is it disregards the failure point of the fastener. The test you mentioned used a hardened steel bar so that only the wrenches failed, not a real world fastener. Perhaps i'll be surprised but what I think i'll find is the Hazet will round just like the others. Key thing with the FD+ is while it rounds a substantial side of the fastener is mashed into serrated teeth and jammed there allowing for a higher load to be applied before shearing. By their own testing they measured the Snap-On wrenches taking 100 foot pounds before failure, i'll tell you right now that 5/8" wrench went around that bolt with well under 100 foot pounds of force.


Is that a hardware store bolt? The reason why I ask is because I often see a lot more slop between my Snap-on wrenches and hardware store fasteners. Not the same thing with factory automotive fasteners or other high quality fasteners like Jergens flange nuts. There's practically no slop at all when I put my open end on a Jergens flange nut.

It is, I checked the play before I did anything and all wrenches were equal. Not a case of a severely undersized fastener or anything.
 
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Hiball

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No, they tested both ends. Hazet was the winner at the open end at 184Nm and the loser was a Metrinch at 94Nm. Wrenches are not all created equal.

I get that FD+ has a place, but at 184Nm on a 13mm head, I'll never have a need for more.

Yeah I finally found that link, unfortunately it was wrote in German. Where are hazet tools made again? Lol... I don't own any Snap on FD+ wrenches, but I've never seen a non optimized open end wrench that wouldn't spread under pressure, That's not a knock on hazet as I'm sure they make fine tools... As do many companies domestic and abroad.

Thanks for the pictures Skin.

I'd like to add, I don't think Skin was trying to bash any specific brand, he was simply showing the differences between "optimized" open ends and what happens when spreading does occur.
 
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marlinspike

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Yeah I finally found that link, unfortunately it was wrote in German. Where are hazet tools made again? Lol... I don't own any Snap on FD+ wrenches, but I've never seen a non optimized open end wrench that wouldn't spread under pressure, That's not a knock on hazet as I'm sure they make fine tools... As do many companies domestic and abroad.

Thanks for the pictures Skin.

I'd like to add, I don't think Skin was trying to bash any specific brand, he was simply showing the differences between "optimized" open ends and what happens when spreading does occur.

Skin makes a good point about a bolt not being as strong as what they used in that test I referenced. That said, I have undone a bolt using the open-end of a Hazet 24mm by lowering a car onto the closed end (i.e. jack up car, slide on open end, lower jack so that closed end hits ground).
 

theoldwizard1

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I plan to test two other systems at least, one being the Cornwell 4 sided engagement, ...

I am always surprised this is not more common.

Measuring the opening before and after would be interesting. Also the "thickness".
 
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Skin

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I am always surprised this is not more common.

Measuring the opening before and after would be interesting. Also the "thickness".

It was common. MAC and Matco also used it (Bonney). MAC still does but only on the stubby and ratcheting wrenches and even then I think its more for aesthetic appearance rather than function. Other than that its been dropped, and with good reason. An arch spreads the load over a wider area compared to a triangle. It makes the wrench less prone to spreading and when it does stops it from stressing the one small point where the two sides meet. All 3 were used wrenches, don't really see the point in measuring the open end ID before.
 

e30bradley

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Skin makes a good point about a bolt not being as strong as what they used in that test I referenced. That said, I have undone a bolt using the open-end of a Hazet 24mm by lowering a car onto the closed end (i.e. jack up car, slide on open end, lower jack so that closed end hits ground).

I've done that with my friends great neck wrench and it didn't break.. the bolt did..
 
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redwrench60

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Surely it's not, but why does that look like a 9/16 head bolt in a 5/8 wrench? I must be wrong.
I'm really not trying to be an ***, it just looks kinda funny.
 
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Skin

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Surely it's not, but why does that look like a 9/16 head bolt in a 5/8 wrench? I must be wrong.
I'm really not trying to be an ***, it just looks kinda funny.

:dunno: there was about 10 thousandths between each bolt and jaw when I measured it. I took the pictures with the wrenches under load spreading; as they try to round the jaws of each wrench are being forced open.
 

carcajou

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Grade 8 bolts are quite common on Ag equipment, i appreciate you using them in your experiment. I have a least a dozen different brands of wrenches and imo there would be a lot less rounded off fasteners if wrenches were thicker on the ends. In order to save money most manufactures have cut corners and it shows in there performance. I admire the looks and feel of some of these newer wrenches but find myself looking hard for used spares for my favorites esp Proto and the older Challenger ones.
 

redwrench60

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:dunno: there was about 10 thousandths between each bolt and jaw when I measured it. I took the pictures with the wrenches under load spreading; as they try to round the jaws of each wrench are being forced open.

That must be what I am seeing. I was thinking, surely he didn't.........:lol_hitti
 

redwrench60

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Cool thread by the way. I'm not at all surprised with your findings. Flank drive plus wrenches proved their superiority to me a long time ago.
 

Rezeppa

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When I purchased my flank drive plus wrenches I was extremely skeptical. My personal favorite set of wrenches I have are MAC six point sae that are 20 years old. I just like the feel in my hand, I like the length the most. Now when I got the snapons I was in my buddies garage working on a Westernstar dump with a Cat in it. I was replacing the electric tarp on top and the steel bolt had rusted into the aluminum motor. When the snapon guy came in (friends buddy) he handed me a 13 mm fd+ and I could feel the wrench grab the bolt I was sold spent 1000$ on metric and standard sets. Now I agree hands down it it grabs the best I hate how long they are but my personal experience agrees with your test.
 
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Skin

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time for part deux.

Added a 5/8" Cornwell and a mythical Hazet 600N. Also threw in a Matco, of which I have no Standard, so instead I did a metric.


First up the Cornwell. As stated previously they're a bit unique in that they still use a V-Groove so that the wrench is sitting with 4 sides supported, at least in theory.



The Cornwell held quite solidly but did round when I put enough oomph behind it. What I found happening is as you pull, the bolt rolls out of the V section. This actually happened with all the wrenches to some degree, so to me this came as little surprise. Honestly Cornwell could probably change to an arch design at any point with little to no change to the wrench performance. When push comes to shove, the two surfaces in the V cut-out really don't do anything other than weaken the wrench.

Figured i'd show initial fitment since people were asking about the bolt sizing before. As you can see, quite snug.



And the bolt rolling out of the V.



And the wrench rounding.



And resulting corners.






Next up the Hazet 600N. This is more just to satisfy curiosity, the open end really has no special merit. More to the point a specific German magazine test found Hazet wrenches to be amongst the strongest so into this test it went.

One good yank and the Hazet actually broke the bolt, and the vise jaws! Nah it didnt, just kidding. Honestly nothing amazing to report, sorry Hazet fans. It held very very well but I found that to be more due to the fact that its simply shorter which reduced my leverage. I went back to the plain old snap-on wrench and choked up on it to where I was pulling on the Hazet wrench and found a similar resistance. Really nice wrenches, but cant call them superior, at least in this test. They do have other very nice attributes though (light, and very thin open and box ends).

Hazet starting to go around



And spreading and rounding.



And damage.







And lastly, the Matco. This is a separate test since I didn't have a 5/8" so to clarify, the wrench used is an extra long 19mm and the bolt used is a 19mm grade 8.8.

This design is pretty basic and is essentially two cut-outs in the jaws to allow for the bolt to sit off corner. The design only functions in one direction as one cut-out sits toward the open end, and the other sits on the other jaw set back. So this only works when its pulled in the "proper" way. However since you cant always do that due to an obstruction or what have you, I find this to be a drawback of the design. That's not to say you cant use it in the reverse, it simply will act like a regular open end.

And its too bad that the design makes it so it cant be used in both directions too because this design/wrench easily performed just as well as the Snap-On Flank Drive Plus. I simply could not round the bolt and actually if I kept pulling (assuming I could keep pulling, I eventually just gave up) I would of eventually just twisted the head off the 10mm thread. Fairly impressive if you ask me. This is also why I ended up using a 19mm instead of 17mm because i did simply twist the head off the 17mm. The pictures tell the simple tale of why.

Look at the contact area that the wrench has on the bolt. It cant roll or round because its essentially locked in off corner. If you look closely you'll actually see the corners of the bolt starting to discolor from the stress.



And these are the marks from the contact left by the top and bottom jaws.




Very large areas of the bolt being engaged here. Two other byproducts of this as well. Because the surface area is so large, the fastener, not the wrench, would have to fail in a big way for the wrench to slip. And second, it allows for more of your energy to be transferred to the fastener surface. It also works fairly well on rounded corners, and yes I did round some but not with the Matco but rather with a Snap-On extra long 19mm just as a baseline. Doesn't perform quite as well as the Flank Drive Plus on degraded fasteners, but never the less is a fantastic performer.

Perhaps the biggest benefit to the Matco design is it, by far, left the least amount of cosmetic damage on the fastener of anything tested. I couldn't get it to round so theres that damage avoided, and unlike the FD+ theres nothing to mar the bolt. I just hope Matco keeps manufacturing the wrenches in the USA and doesn't offshore them as they have a real winner.

And a last note, Armstrong wrenches do share this design if you'd like to try it on a tighter budget theres that option. Gearwrench also uses a variation, however I cannot attest to their steel quality as it does matter. If the open end flexes too far, these cut-outs become pointless as the bolt will roll out of them.

Heres some final shots of all the participants












And here the indent in the Matco open end on the lower jaw



and the upper

 
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ajchien

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When I look at your cornwell and Hazet pics, it looks like the bolt corner is slipping out of the inner aspect of the upper jaw. It looks stable on the lower jaw. Is this what happened to the Mac and regular snap on? Could suggest why the notches on the inner aspect (matco and fd plus) are so effective. It dosent let the bolt corner slip on the upper jaw.

Also, I'm curious if any of the wrenches permanently spread, or of they went back to their normal shapes/sizes?
 
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V70R

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Skin- Great writeup and review. I have never used a Mac KS wrench before, impressive how thick their beam is. Big thumbs up.
 

supra90turbo

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So the real answer is, if you need to apply max force, use the box end or a socket !

Or buy Snap-on or Matco.
If i were in the market for wrenches, the Matco would get my money, that's damn impressive. Too bad there are no Matco guys near me, nor have I ever seen one...

Great job, Skin! Thanks for taking time out of your day to do this for the people's general knowledge. :bounce:
 

jebutler

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Skin, thanks for the test. So i'm assuming you would place the fd+ and matco as first and second. Maybe fd+ first do to the fact it can be used in either direction. My question for you is where would you place the ks2's in this line up because i'm looking to replace my standard snappy wrenches with some that have the optimized open ends and was considering the mac's due to the square beam design, but now reconsidering. Thanks in advance.
 
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Skin

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When I look at your cornwell and Hazet pics, it looks like the bolt corner is slipping out of the inner aspect of the upper jaw. It looks stable on the lower jaw. Is this what happened to the Mac and regular snap on? Could suggest why the notches on the inner aspect (matco and fd plus) are so effective. It dosent let the bolt corner slip on the upper jaw.

Also, I'm curious if any of the wrenches permanently spread, or of they went back to their normal shapes/sizes?

Yes thats my opinion as well. The upper jaw modifications are stopping the bolt from rolling which makes any modifications to the lower jaw far more effective. I think this is why the knuckle saver was practically worthless since both indents are on the forward sections meaning only 1 is working in any given direction. The wrenches are metal and if you round a bolt it will spread permanently. The question is by how much. I measured a couple i new werent used and the only thing effected was the extreme open section expanding by a few thousandths. Keep doing it daily though and you'll make it worse and worse to a point where the wrench will simply cease to work properly and will be only good at damaging fasteners. Any decent company should warranty it though but with designs like the Matco opti-torque pro and FD+ that prevent rounding almost completely they'll definetly last longer and maintain their shape better over the years.

Skin, thanks for the test. So i'm assuming you would place the fd+ and matco as first and second. Maybe fd+ first do to the fact it can be used in either direction. My question for you is where would you place the ks2's in this line up because i'm looking to replace my standard snappy wrenches with some that have the optimized open ends and was considering the mac's due to the square beam design, but now reconsidering. Thanks in advance.

KS wrenches are very nice looking and have fantastic chrome but honestly i was fairly dissapointed with them. The beams are wider but the corners are squared off so it hurts to pull on it since your palm wraps around the corners. The Matco and Cornwell have the most comfortable beams of the batch followed by Snap-On. I'm also not a fan of fat wrenches. The box end is really well formed but that open end is very meaty and will prevent its use.

Keep in mind many of the wrenches i used were extra long. MAC has since replaced the original "long" KS wrenches with the same design as Proto ASDs which should be more comfortable and are far thinner.

Getting beyond the scope of the test here but the Matco wrenches do have a small drawback in that their box ends are formed a bit fat on certain sizes so they arent perfect either. Would that matter in the real world? Probably not, its just something i noticed. I think a couple sizes were as much as 1/8" thicker than my FD wrenches. Other sizes were about the same. Seemed entirely random as if some wrenches were formed using the same box end blank sizes. The Matco resale also *****. You can very easily pick up a gently used to new set of 10-19mm Matco Long Opti-Torque combos for $100 (great news if you're shopping now). At least where the combo wrenches are concerned the brand just doesnt have the same recognition like Snap-On or even MAC. Otherwise a really nice wrench and fairly under-rated.
 
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