5X10 Trailer Build

bmxdad · Jun 5, 2016

Starting a new trailer build, but before I start welding I want to get all my ducks in a line.

My plans so far are to use 3" C channel for front, rear and both side rails. Cross members are looking to be 2x2x3/16 angle, 24" on center. This makes for 4 cross members. Tongue material will either be 3" C Channel or 3x3x3/16 angle ... still undecided

The coupler type determines the tongue type, recommendations? I was thinking of the middle one.

1x1x3/36 angle will be used for sides, and be about 24" tall.

So ... how does it look/sound?

koditten · Jun 5, 2016

Channel seems over kill. You can't load more than 3000 pounds on the trailer, why use iron that can withstand 6000?

That 50* couplet is just fine. The one on the left are pretty nice, too, but they are expensive.

Is salt used on the roads in your area? If not, think about tubing.

I have a 5 x 10 utility trailer build on this site if you are curious how I do my trailer.

bmxdad · Jun 6, 2016

I got 30' already ... so stuck with it. Maybe an axle upgrade later on?

I did price the tubing, but it was almost $300 for the 30'. I've heard the crowd say its cheaper to buy ... but it's a project for me, and would like to say "I did that".

I think I ready your read your build ... link?

So what about the cross members?

Thanks for the input ...

kerrynzl · Jun 6, 2016

bmxdad said:
I got 30' already ... so stuck with it. Maybe an axle upgrade later on?

I did price the tubing, but it was almost $300 for the 30'. I've heard the crowd say its cheaper to buy ... but it's a project for me, and would like to say "I did that".

I think I ready your read your build ... link?

So what about the cross members?

Thanks for the input ...

**** they must think you're a sucker.
An 8m length of 100x50x3 pre galvanized RHS [26' of 4x2x1/8"] is $135 here in NZ [ USD $92] and we import it from Australia.

Steel is usually priced on the world market

bmxdad · Jun 7, 2016

Found this on WeldingWeb

On a 5'x10' trailer you should cut your tongue rails at 72" and it should meet the outer perimeter of the trailer side about 32" back from the front edge of the deck. That is assuming you will be using a 2" 50 deg. A-frame coupler.

Found this on WayBackMachine:
Trailer Plans

nonhog · Jun 7, 2016

What tires size you going with?

drivesitfar · Jun 7, 2016

BMX: did you already have the axel or are you starting from SCRATCH?

I just picked up a little 4x8 utility trailer i'm going to restore and use until I get around to buying a new 5 x 10 aluminum one up on Vancouver Island maybe next year when I have a good place to store it.

I don't know what steel I might have that you need or can use, but email or PM me if you are looking and i'll check and see.

i'm looking for a little wheel that you can put on the front of the trailer and then flip up once you have put trailer on the hitch. is one in your design and where did you buy it?

good luck

kerrynzl · Jun 7, 2016

bmxdad said:
Found this on WeldingWeb

Found this on WayBackMachine:
Trailer Plans

You will make a mistake using generic information like that.
Learn to do the math and get it correct.

That trailer plan is 5'4" [64" ] at the outer edge ,if your trailer is exactly 5" you need to recalculate the numbers

I use 50 degree couplers all the time. They are 25 degrees each side of the centreline of the trailer.
If the trailer is 5' [60"] wide, it is 30" each side of the centreline
Now if you use 2x4 tube[or c channel] for the tongue, you need to deduct the width of this section [at 25 degrees] from the 30" because the tongue is joined together at the inside edge .but the outside edge of the frame is the furthest it can be mounted.
2" steel sitting at a 25 degree angle = 1.8"wide
So the 1/2 width at the centreline is 28.2"

use this online calculator
http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html

Side a = 28.2"
Angle A = 25 degrees

So side c = 66.7" [this is the actual tongue measurement for a 60" wide trailer]

This online calculator is a handy tool for cutting symmetrical pie cuts

bmxdad · Jun 7, 2016

Nonhog ... ST205R75x15 D or E range for the tire size

Kerrynzl...that is a link that is everywhere, but usually broken ... just for general info.

So how long should the tongue be, from the front of bed? I've heard to try for half the length of the bed?

Drives ... Any 3" C-Channel or 2x1.4" angle iron? Will be sending an email to night.

Thanks all ... ducks are lining up

kerrynzl · Jun 7, 2016

bmxdad said:
So how long should the tongue be, from the front of bed? I've heard to try for half the length of the bed?

You can always compensate for lack of length by having a long tongue [pun totally intended

]

[based on skid-pad tests]

The centreline of the towball to the axle [or centre of the wheelbase on tandems] should be 1.4 x the width of the track [measured outside to outside of the tyres]

On tandems I prefer this ratio to be about 1.5:1 because the tandem resists steering input

When in doubt build it longer

koditten · Jun 7, 2016

My rule of thumb is to make the tongue long enough so that when backing up and turning the trailer very sharp, you don't take out your car tail lights.

Slightly longer than 1/2 the width of your widest vehicle.

kerrynzl · Jun 7, 2016

koditten said:
My rule of thumb is to make the tongue long enough so that when backing up and turning the trailer very sharp, you don't take out your car tail lights.

Slightly longer than 1/2 the width of your widest vehicle.

Haha! I did the opposite on some rental trailers I built. The ******** public would still jack-knife them when reversing and bend the tongue.

It's better for them to damage their own property than yours

koditten · Jun 8, 2016

Well, I am building them to sell, so they are damaging their own trailers. I do pretty good on repairing those tongues.

Out of the 2 dozen or so that I've repaired, I've only had 1 guy admit that he bent the tongue while backing up. All the rest "claimed" that the wives bent the tongue backing up the trailer. Hmmm?

bmxdad · Jun 8, 2016

Do you do guys do anything on the tongue to keep the trailer bed level? For instance, if your hitch was a little higher then most? I know they have the offset ball mounts ... but curious if you raise or lower the tongue somehow?

When using C-Channel, is the channel in or out? Or does it matter?

aka Larry · Jun 8, 2016

I built my own 4'x7' utility trailer with step by step pics if you are interested.

GJ Link

kerrynzl · Jun 8, 2016

bmxdad said:
Do you do guys do anything on the tongue to keep the trailer bed level? For instance, if your hitch was a little higher then most? I know they have the offset ball mounts ... but curious if you raise or lower the tongue somehow?

When using C-Channel, is the channel in or out? Or does it matter?

I did build a tandem trailer with Adjustable height suspension!
All I did was multiple drill the pedestal for the rocker [this was an exercise in futility]
.
On a single axle trailer you are better off with the hitch being too low.
The idea is to have the front spring eye level [or lower] than the axle centre. This prevents "Roll oversteer" which is one of the causes of swaying.

f150skidoo · Jun 8, 2016

bmxdad said:
Do you do guys do anything on the tongue to keep the trailer bed level? For instance, if your hitch was a little higher then most? I know they have the offset ball mounts ... but curious if you raise or lower the tongue somehow?

When using C-Channel, is the channel in or out? Or does it matter?

Just buy the proper drop or rise ball mount for your vehicle, It would be cheaper then the adjustable ball mounts.

Now for all the wooden floor trailers I've built I put the C to the inside and either mitered or cope the ends and use 1.5" cross members and weld them to the lower half of the 3" frame rails. Doing this gives you a lower floor height and you can tuck the lumber under the C channels flange to protect the wood from splintering if struck by something

bmxdad · Jun 8, 2016

f150skidoo said:
Just buy the proper drop or rise ball mount for your vehicle, It would be cheaper then the adjustable ball mounts.

Now for all the wooden floor trailers I've built I put the C to the inside and either mitered or cope the ends and use 1.5" cross members and weld them to the lower half of the 3" frame rails. Doing this gives you a lower floor height and you can tuck the lumber under the C channels flange to protect the wood from splintering if struck by something

1.5" angle? I was going 24" on center. The channel facing in makes a lot a sense, and I like the idea of tucking the wood under it.

aka Larry said:
I built my own 4'x7' utility trailer with step by step pics if you are interested.

GJ Link

Nice build ... like the idea of the jack stands to level everything.

Thanks all ...

So the spring shown has a single clip on the end ... does it go to the front or back? New factory spring .... thinking it goes forward?

f150skidoo · Jun 9, 2016

bmxdad said:
1.5" angle? I was going 24" on center. The channel facing in makes a lot a sense, and I like the idea of tucking the wood under it.

Nice build ... like the idea of the jack stands to level everything.

Thanks all ...

So the spring shown has a single clip on the end ... does it go to the front or back? New factory spring .... thinking it goes forward?

I built a 5x8 utility trailer and I used 1.5" 1/8" angle on 16" OC. Before I installed the 2x8 floor i walked on the angle iron and was questioning if my cross member choice was strong enough. Once the wood floor was on it made a solid floor with no flexing or bouncing of the angles.

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NUTTSGT · Jun 10, 2016

For those of you that have built a small trailer like the OP is building, did you miter, cope or **** the corners. I'd assume the latter would have only been done with squat tubing frame.

bmxdad · Jun 10, 2016

I'm going to cope? the two end pieces into the side rails ... trim the ends so they fit into the "C". Little more work, but seems to me to be the best way to make sure both ends are the same width.

hatake · Jun 11, 2016

FWIW, I hate my horse trailer coupler, the left one in your picture because it won't release the ball easily due to the shape of the retainer recess. I have to jump up/down in my truck bed a couple of times for it to release the ball with a bang. I had several different balls, so I know it's not the ball. The direction that I angle the trailer to back into the parking spot doesn't seem to make any difference either.

I used to have the coupler in the middle with my old trailer, and I never had any issue disconnecting that one. Although I have to question the strength of this shaped sheet metal vs. cast metal of the left one. For that, the one on the left seem to have vantage...

kerrynzl · Jun 11, 2016

hatake said:
FWIW, I hate my horse trailer coupler, the left one in your picture because it won't release the ball easily due to the shape of the retainer recess. I have to jump up/down in my truck bed a couple of times for it to release the ball with a bang. I had several different balls, so I know it's not the ball. The direction that I angle the trailer to back into the parking spot doesn't seem to make any difference either.

I used to have the coupler in the middle with my old trailer, and I never had any issue disconnecting that one. Although I have to question the strength of this shaped sheet metal vs. cast metal of the left one. For that, the one on the left seem to have vantage...

Use a Foldaway Jockey Wheel instead of a Tongue Jack.
This allows the trailer to roll forward on the wheel about 1/2" around the towball when you lift it.
Plus it is easier to manoeuvre the trailer own it's own

bmxdad · Jun 13, 2016

kerrynzl said:
Use a Foldaway Jockey Wheel instead of a Tongue Jack.
This allows the trailer to roll forward on the wheel about 1/2" around the towball when you lift it.
Plus it is easier to manoeuvre the trailer own it's own

Yep, it makes it easier to move around. Had one on the last trailer.

Image is some of the coping that is going to be done on both ends of the front and rear rails. I'm using a 4" cutoff wheel. This will give me 60" x 120" outside measurements. The spring perches will be flush with the outside edge.

Still working on getting a good weld while working horizontally ... This one looks like ****, but did not come apart, even with a 5 lb sledge.

bmxdad · Jun 14, 2016

This is what the fit is going to look like ... not to hard. Hopefully will have the other three done tomorrow, and everything test fit. Will be picking up a 10lb roll of .030 solid wire from HF, then we start welding.

RIMs: Found some Jeep rims. They have a 5" offset and a 5x4.5 bolt circle. Will they work? I tried looking on the Dexter axle site for rim offset recommendations, but nothing ...

Found some information on welding the spring hangers .... informational

drivesitfar · Jun 16, 2016

BMX: nice looking corner. i don't have the answer to your question, but i have a few pieces of steel tubing if you might need a few. not sure how much if any longer pieces of channel i have but email me the size and i'll look when i'm at the shop tomorrow and or try to take a few pictures as i'm ORGANIZING.

good luck

sanddan · Jun 16, 2016

Do yourself a favor and buy the wire at a welding supply store. It will be better quality and newer to boot. I tried a cheap HF type brand before and it welded pitifully. Lots of spatter, just couldn't get a decent weld out of it. I trashed it and bought a new roll at the local weld store and that wire performed great. Also, buy the small spools if you don't weld often. Wire on an open spool will corrode enough that it will affect the weld. Once again spatter and general "off" sound when running a bead. You can also store it in a plastic bag for longer durations.

bmxdad · Jun 17, 2016

Interesting ... I've heard it was a good deal. I bought a 10lb roll. They had to pull it out of a box in the back. Ones on the shelves had broken spools. The one I got was all wrapped up too.

Been doing some practicing and so far it's been OK. If it starts going south I'll check the wire condition.

Thanks for the heads up ...

Drives ... email sent

koditten ... This 6X10 build of yours is great! Lot's of information.

kerrynzl · Jun 17, 2016

bmxdad said:
This is what the fit is going to look like ... not to hard. Hopefully will have the other three done tomorrow, and everything test fit. Will be picking up a 10lb roll of .030 solid wire from HF, then we start welding.

RIMs: Found some Jeep rims. They have a 5" offset and a 5x4.5 bolt circle. Will they work? I tried looking on the Dexter axle site for rim offset recommendations, but nothing ...

Found some information on welding the spring hangers .... informational

Just curious about why you are coping the corners ? Wouldn't 45degree mitre cuts produce a better joint [visually].
Or is this coping done just for the cross-members?

When I've done C channel cross-members to a C channel Frame, I just cut a couple of 90degrees notches out of the cross-member [upper and lower]
When this fits together there is a slight gap inside where wiring or brake lines can run down inside the frame

koditten · Jun 17, 2016

I'm willing to be corrected, but I've always coped my joints when using channel. In my mind, there is just a lot more surface area to weld to, thus a stronger joint, In my mind at least.

I do know that a mitered joint will more than be strong enough for this application and will look better as Kerry mentioned.

koditten · Jun 17, 2016

I've used HF wire with no issue as well. I don't often use it since I buy the 44 pound rolls.

One thing I will never do again is buy wire with a plastic spool. I cracked the spool by accident. That wire would not feed for ****. Bird nested like a mofo. Ended up tossing 2/3 of a 44 pounder in the recycle bin.

sanddan · Jun 18, 2016

I'll glad the HF wire works for you. If you're happy that's what matters

bmxdad · Jun 18, 2016

I'm just coping the front and rear rails. I'll be using 2"x1.5" for the floor cross members.

Picking up some 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" tubing for the uprights. And more 3" C-Channel for the tongue ... I'd do tubing, but it so much cheaper for me.

Total cost for all material is still under $200, and that includes the axle, springs and hubs. Only big pieces I still need to purchase are the rims and tires, and lights. The flooring and sides I already have.

Trying to keep the cost under $400 ...

So, about those springs ... clip to the front?

Little more info on the build:

The idea for the wall is to have uprights with a piece of angle iron on top. Angle iron will be shifted to the inside so some ply or mdf can slide up under the lip. There will be a pipe above that spaced up by ... something.

Some emt will be welded in the channel for the wiring.

How do you license a home built? Need to check that out ...

drivesitfar · Jun 18, 2016

BMX: i think you have to take your trailer to the State Patrol to have them check it out and approve it for the road. i almost bought a couple trailers from Oregon where they don't need to license a trailer if you can believe it so found out some of the rules, but that was a few years ago.

i'm curious what Washington state's rules are now for home builds too.

good luck

ilovevocs · Jun 18, 2016

Last time I registered one In Ohio had it weighed, went to the title borough, told them weight and capacity, then walked out with a title. That was 15 years ago but it was super simple here.

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iagsxr · Jun 18, 2016

NUTTSGT said:
For those of you that have built a small trailer like the OP is building, did you miter, cope or **** the corners. I'd assume the latter would have only been done with squat tubing frame.

The last trailer I built was 2" × 4" side rails and front crossmember with 2" × 2" rear and bed crossmembers (we had the material). On the front corners I made D shaped plates to cap the rail and act as a gusset. On the rear corners I made L shaped plates.to do the same thing.

Angle, most mass produced trailers are butted. If you want to miter the horizontal leg it makes the corner look nicer. If you're not completely confident in your welding, it's probably not as strong a joint. I've never had one break. YRMV

kerrynzl · Jun 18, 2016

iagsxr said:
The last trailer I built was 2" × 4" side rails and front crossmember with 2" × 2" rear and bed crossmembers (we had the material). On the front corners I made D shaped plates to cap the rail and act as a gusset. On the rear corners I made L shaped plates.to do the same thing.

Angle, most mass produced trailers are butted. If you want to miter the horizontal leg it makes the corner look nicer. If you're not completely confident in your welding, it's probably not as strong a joint. I've never had one break. YRMV

With 2" x 4" side and front frame rails , You can **** weld both corners into a vertical 2"x2" post for the side rails.
Leave the bottom of these corner posts open or they will become a water trap.

On the top of these posts you can use plastic insert caps. Which can be knocked out later if you want to use the corner posts to drop in a "ladder rack" or "canoe/boat rack"

I usually drill a hole and weld a nut onto these corner posts to use a bolt to lock in any rack.

By using this method no coping or mitre cuts are needed.

f150skidoo · Jun 18, 2016

What are you panning for lights? If i were you I would spend the extra bit of money and buy L.E.D grommet lights. There brighter then the cheap incandescent and in my opinion they give the trailer a more professional look.

koditten · Jun 18, 2016

Clips forward.

LED lights are not much more than incands. Don't even consider incandescent bulbs/ lights.

bmxdad · Jun 19, 2016

LED's for sure ... might try the grommet type, depending on how well I can plasma cut the hole. Wish I had a mill, then it would be a piece of cake.

Dexter has a kit to mount the springs on top. Anyone try it? Is the under hung a default mounting style for some reason?

kerrynzl said:
With 2" x 4" side and front frame rails , You can **** weld both corners into a vertical 2"x2" post for the side rails.
Leave the bottom of these corner posts open or they will become a water trap.

On the top of these posts you can use plastic insert caps. Which can be knocked out later if you want to use the corner posts to drop in a "ladder rack" or "canoe/boat rack"

I usually drill a hole and weld a nut onto these corner posts to use a bolt to lock in any rack.

By using this method no coping or mitre cuts are needed.

Interesting idea ... trailer number two maybe :thumbup:

5X10 Trailer Build

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