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My Wood Tool Chest Thread

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mrholeshot

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Got started on my wood tool chest yesterday. My son helped me build the bottom floor last night. He routed a 1/4 inch grooves in two sheets of 3/4 plywood. I welded a 1/2 inch square tubing that rides between the two sheets of plywood and the casters will ride just over top ot the tubing. Between the plywood is a frame of steel. The two sheets of plywood have liquid nail between and then screwed together. I thought I would show this build from start to finish and it may take a while to complete. It is 72 inches wide, 24 inches deep and will be 46 inches high. The casters arn't bolted down yet. I have to weld a strap across the bolts so they won't tunn if I have to tighten the casters up. I will keep posting as I make progress. Go ahead and make fun of my stand.

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mrholeshot

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tonydanzah said:
did you buy those casters from HF? If so I bought the same recently and was very unhappy with the amount of side to side play when under a load.
Click to expand...

Yeah I did. I took the small 3/8 bolt out and drilled them for 7/16 bolts. I put steel washers beside the wheels on the inside and greased them up and put lock nuts on them. It won't ever get moved enough for me to install zerk fittings. These are 6 inch casters. Nobody else local could get me any without an act of congress.
 
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KEH

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Looks like it will be strong enough. Good start. Who needs a steel box anyway?


KEH
 
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mrholeshot

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KEH said:
Looks like it will be strong enough. Good start. Who needs a steel box anyway?


KEH
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For 20 years I've wanted an Oak tool Chest. I have had and still have plenty of steel ones. I have 0 wood working experiance. I was going to build it 56X24 but I said oh what the hell, lol My biggest thing was it has to be 24 inches deep. I'll make sure to put a Made In USA stamping on the rear.
 
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mrholeshot

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I'm going to try to built it as light as possible and still be able to hold the weight. I'm going to frame it with 2X2s. Realistic weight it will actually carry is about 600 lbs.
 
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Elroy

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Elroy would suggest that you put the fixed casters in the center and the swivels on each end. That way you can turn the whole box 360 in its own length.
 
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mrholeshot

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Elroy said:
Elroy would suggest that you put the fixed casters in the center and the swivels on each end. That way you can turn the whole box 360 in its own length.
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cant cut in short areas with fixed in the center. That only works good if you have the box in a large area. You would need 15 feet of open wall to get it against the wall. Fixed on one end allows you to parrallel park the box. get one corner in the hole and then the other end can roll in. With fixed casters in the middle the box won't swing in. You would have to jack the casters off the floor to get it in a tight spot.
 
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blue dog

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I have ben planning the same project, yet have not found the time. How many rows of drawer's are you doing? 3. Do you have a drawing you can show us of what you got planned? When i was planning mine, i was decided to use Accuride drawer glides at 150 lbs rated per pair, do you think that is enough ? Maybe a stainless work top. Lastly, is the kitten helping?
 
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KEH

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Referring to the 0 woodworking experience, just ask, somebody will help.

Basically you are making a chest of drawers, suggest you go to the bedroom and examine how that chest is made. Naturally you will want roller drawer slides instead of wood. Check out how the bottoms are attached to the drawers and how the drawers are made.

I would make the drawers out of solid oak for strength and appearance. Don't think you want to get into hand cut dovetails, that takes practice.

I wouldn't use pine or poplar lumber in the box for strength reasons.

Lot of options for the top. You could use oak plywood and glue and nail or screw solid edging to it to protect the edge. You could buy maple cabinet top ready made. You could just use oak planks.

Buying oak boards from a building supply place is not going to be cheap, and neither is the oak plywood.

KEH
 
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bchee

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Looks like a good start, but I don't understand why you guys wants wooden boxes.
If you're considering weight vs. strength vs. bulk, it seems like metal wins in all categories, no?
 
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Stick Figure

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bchee said:
If you're considering weight vs. strength vs. bulk, it seems like metal wins in all categories, no?
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I have always been told lb per lb wood is just as strong as steel. so really its a bulk trade off for the look. I can totally understand wanting a wood box, especially if you have been playing with metal for a great length of time. There is just something nice and relaxing about wood working after dealing with metal.

Regarding the HF casters: I have picked up a few casters from them for a couple of jobs. One was to do some vehicle dollies, one was for my "vintage" craftsman tool box. While the wheels roll great its the rotation that doesn't work. When they have decent amount of weight on them they won't rotate. They usually get stuck in different directions and won't straighten out to align with each other and roll anywhere. The vehicle dollies worked well with light loads, but won't hold anywhere near the weight they claim. The Craftsman box, i made sure to grease the hell out of them, and they will work but are a chore to get the box where its going. Luckily for me it just sits in the fab area at work, and probably won't need moved until i get smart enough to quit and move on. I would at the very least load up some weight on that bottom and test out the casters before you get too far in and have a problem.


Other than that i'm excited to see this project!
 
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Stuey

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bchee said:
Looks like a good start, but I don't understand why you guys wants wooden boxes.
If you're considering weight vs. strength vs. bulk, it seems like metal wins in all categories, no?
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imho, a wooden toolbox might provide better dampening than a steel sheet metal one. Plus, it's easier to accessorize.

With 2x4 framing and plywood paneling, his wood tool chest will be as sturdy as a metal one (if not more so) at a fraction of the cost.
 
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Steve from Socal

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Wood tool chests are traditionally used for precision tools and instruments; wood is unlikely to damage the tools and it absorbs moisture. Wood tool chest are not great for heavy wrenches. I have considered making a "wood" cased tool chest but, wood construction for drawers has its limitations. I would build metal drawers and put wood faces on them.

Steve
 
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mrholeshot

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blue dog said:
I have ben planning the same project, yet have not found the time. How many rows of drawer's are you doing? 3. Do you have a drawing you can show us of what you got planned? When i was planning mine, i was decided to use Accuride drawer glides at 150 lbs rated per pair, do you think that is enough ? Maybe a stainless work top. Lastly, is the kitten helping?
Click to expand...

Here is a rough (I can't draw) drawing of what I planned in 56" Just think of the same box in 72" I'm thinking of making the outside smooth. with just a little trim Vs the 4inch faux bracing shown. I'll be using 100lb per pair slides on all the drawers and on the top drawer it will have double slidles. Drawer count will change from the photo. I'm lookiny at a realistic 13 drawer count.

IMG_0838.jpg


As far as the kitty goes the kitty is stoked

IMG_0781.jpg
 
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mrholeshot

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nate379 said:
Cool.

Don't think I have ever seen a flight of stairs that steep before!
Click to expand...

They go up to the upstairs storage in the garage. They had to be steep so I could open the rear drive through drawers in my redneck garage. I don't like ladders
 
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mrholeshot

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KEH said:
Referring to the 0 woodworking experience, just ask, somebody will help.

Basically you are making a chest of drawers, suggest you go to the bedroom and examine how that chest is made. Naturally you will want roller drawer slides instead of wood. Check out how the bottoms are attached to the drawers and how the drawers are made.

I would make the drawers out of solid oak for strength and appearance. Don't think you want to get into hand cut dovetails, that takes practice.

I wouldn't use pine or poplar lumber in the box for strength reasons.

Lot of options for the top. You could use oak plywood and glue and nail or screw solid edging to it to protect the edge. You could buy maple cabinet top ready made. You could just use oak planks.

Buying oak boards from a building supply place is not going to be cheap, and neither is the oak plywood.

KEH
Click to expand...
I have several sons who have woodworking experiance so they will help me if I get in a jam. I just want to do as much of this as possibe myself.

The frame will be pine 2X2's but will Have 3/4 oak cabinet grade Plywood on the outside and 1/2 inch plywood on the inside walls where the roller slides will fasten.

The drawers will have pine sides and back and plywood bottoms. The fronts will be oak. The top drawer wil have some extra bracing and a thicker bottom.

The top will be 3/4 Oak Plywood as well. The oak Plywood I'm using is about 60 dollars a sheet.

I'm building it like a small house except 8" on center construction.
 
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Jononon

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Some possibly slightly daunting inspiration from Rockler

Commode notwithstanding, great project. Have you thought about surface finishes?
 
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mrholeshot

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bchee said:
Looks like a good start, but I don't understand why you guys wants wooden boxes.
If you're considering weight vs. strength vs. bulk, it seems like metal wins in all categories, no?
Click to expand...

I've just always wanted one. I would agree that strength ve weight steel is stronger. The great thing about a wooden box is that tools don't rust inside. Not only that I just think wood boxes are really cool. I saw a custum built set of Gerstners once that blew my mind. I don't need a commercial box anymore as I'm now retired. Just want something differant and unique.
 
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boomerangg22

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These might look pretty cool on it.

Mag Wheel Caster

* * Highly polished chrome wheels for dressing up any service cart
* * Set of four chrome mag wheels - 5" Caster
* * Bolt pattern on wheels will allow bolting on to all popular service carts with bolt patterns from 1-3/4" to 2-1/8" wide and 3" to 3-3/8" deep
* * Smooth operating ball bearings on each wheel
* * Each wheel load rated at 300 lbs.
* * Dress up your tool cart with 5 inch Chrome Mag Wheel Casters with Low Profile Racing Tires - set of four wheels - two locking and two non locking.
* * Wheels will fit all popular service carts with multiple bolt patterns

Looked kinda neat, a bit pricey.
 

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Packard V8

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On the internet, incorrect info takes on a life of its' own.

The great thing about a wooden box is that tools don't rust inside.
Click to expand...

Let's correct this one now. Wrong, wrong - tools can and do rust in a wooden box. It just takes a bit longer and a bit more humidity, but ask anyone who lives in the southeast or in the tropics.

Just one of the many first-hand examples - I recently completed cleaning, removing rust and mildew to restore some NOS Starrett micrometers stored in their original wooden boxes inside a Gerstner wooden chest.

jack vines
 
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mrholeshot

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Packard V8 said:
On the internet, incorrect info takes on a life of its' own.



Let's correct this one now. Wrong, wrong - tools can and do rust in a wooden box. It just takes a bit longer and a bit more humidity, but ask anyone who lives in the southeast or in the tropics.

Just one of the many first-hand examples - I recently completed cleaning, removing rust and mildew to restore some NOS Starrett micrometers stored in their original wooden boxes inside a Gerstner wooden chest.

jack vines
Click to expand...
Ok I shouldn't have said "don't rust". Given enough time and neglect just about any steel or Iron will rust. Wooden storage dramaticly increases the time. My area is so humid (coastal SC) and my steel building sweats so bad that I have to stay on top of things to keep the rust away. I keep my machinest tools in wooden boxes and have yet to have a problem with rust. Now I'm sure if they sat up 20 years that may change although I have a set of Starrett Mic's That I pulled from my tool box that haven't been opened in about 10 years that still look new. I also have a wood shop building I keep all my head milling and porting equiptment in and rust isn't a problem in that building even if I have a cast Iron head that I'm porting I don't get any surface rust over several days of work. That same head in my metal building will rust overnight if I don't coat the ports. I keep all my welding rods in a wooden box with a 25 watt bulb on to keep the rods dry the humidity is so bad. It stays at 100% most of the time.
 
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