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My Wood Tool Chest Thread

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Packard V8

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Thanks for the correction. We agree wood boxes retard rusting much better than do steel boxes. One thing most forget is Gerstner boxes have steel drawer bottoms.

A bit OT, but wish I could find a competent iron head porting shop in the NW. The two shops who did my heads both guys died off. Too much cast iron dust in the lungs, I guess. Take precautions! :shocking:

jack vines
 
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mrholeshot

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Thanks for the correction. We agree wood boxes retard rusting much better than do steel boxes. One thing most forget is Gerstner boxes have steel drawer bottoms.

A bit OT, but wish I could find a competent iron head porting shop in the NW. The two shops who did my heads both guys died off. Too much cast iron dust in the lungs, I guess. Take precautions! :shocking:

jack vines

Porting has become a lost art. There is still class racing where the use of OEM heads are mandatory. I use a three filter respirator and a Vac system to pull the dust as I port. Although retired I still do head porting. By the time I done with a set I may have hit Minimum wage for all the time porting and flowing the heads.lol
 
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mrholeshot

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Looking forward to seeing how it comes out.
And please give your grandmother back her bathroom chair!
Actually that was my grandmothers bathroom chair. I took care of her in the last 6 months of her life. Hard for me to throw an metal out, I've been planning on making a workbench stool out of it Minus the toilet seat. I'm afraid of sitting on those things. I'm afraid I'll forget I still have my pants on:lol_hitti
 
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mrholeshot

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Here is a photo of the bottom complete with braces. Has steel inner (see in first of thread) and the casters are bolted straddled the steel. The botton is two sheets of 3/4 plywood gluded, screwed and bolted.

IMG_0903.jpg


This is the inside wall with furring strips. I found out the hard way that once wood glue is between two peices of wood and screwed down it's permanant. Damn thats some strong stuff.

IMG_0906.jpg


Here is one side exterior wall ready to go on. Everything glued and screwed.

IMG_0907.jpg


Very slow and precision process.
 
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mrholeshot

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Does any of the construction process require a router?

Yes, the top of the box will have a 3/8 rounded edge. I'm changing it up just a little from the original concept. Instead of a wide top drawer it will have a 6" deep top compartment and the top will lift up somewhat like a service cart. The second floor is just like the bottom other that no steel inner layer. Ive been making parts of the box. I'm hoping to assemble the floor, walls, second floor and cut the top today. I have 0 woodworking skills so it it a tough project. My rule of thumb on this one is measure 14 times, cut once. At 56 dollars a sheet for the Oak Plywood for the exterior and 32 dollars a sheet for the interior one bad cut and it can cost you 100 dollars.

The sides will overlap the bottom by 1.5 inches so you wont be able so see the entire caster. I could go down farther due to the casters having to swivel. Final measurements are 72.5 wide, 25 inches deep and 48 inches tall with the top closed. I hope to have photos up tonight that show basicly how it will look.
 

north

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Really enjoying the build and excited about how the finished product will look and perform. :thumbup:
 
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mrholeshot

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Here is a little update for today.

Had to get that heavy bottom up on stands so I could put on the sides

IMG_0910.jpg



Had to grind out small sections to clear the washers for the casters. Would be able to replace a bolt without a problem.

IMG_0912.jpg



Here it is fliped over with the second teir floor installed. That floor will be the floor for the top compartment when you open the lid.

IMG_0911.jpg


Here is the support wall/drawer seperator. Again two sheets of 3/4 glued and screwed

IMG_0913.jpg


Here is where the support wall/ drawer devider meet.

IMG_0914.jpg
 

dgarage

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Very nice project! I hope that support/drawer divider works out for you though. Unless that's exterior plywood I've found glued and screwed endgrain joints without a dado swell with moisture and don't last. Maybe doubled up and vertical will work for you.
 
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mrholeshot

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Very nice project! I hope that support/drawer divider works out for you though. Unless that's exterior plywood I've found glued and screwed endgrain joints without a dado swell with moisture and don't last. Maybe doubled up and vertical will work for you.

The interior plywood of the box is not the osmosis treated plywood but is some sort of moisture repelling plywood. I forgot what it's called. But it's getting varnished inside and out so no worries. The only reason the devider is there is to have a place for the drawers to mount the slides. It's just a bonus it adds support.
 

KEH

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Looks good and well planned so far.

You have protruding bolt heads from the caster attachments on the bottom piece. Nothing wrong with that, a little bit of extra strength over the alternative of countersinking them. However, be sure when building and fitting the bottom drawers to allow for them clearing the bolt heads, when loaded.

KEH
 
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mrholeshot

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Looks good and well planned so far.

You have protruding bolt heads from the caster attachments on the bottom piece. Nothing wrong with that, a little bit of extra strength over the alternative of countersinking them. However, be sure when building and fitting the bottom drawers to allow for them clearing the bolt heads, when loaded.

KEH
There will be furing strips along the bottom to box keep anything from catching on the bolts. I planned on putting in the strips when I thought of a roller slide that may break and to drawer locking up. Thanks for the tip
 
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Nealcrenshaw

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Its coming along!
there was another member who built a toolbox out of wood.

I think it was 84 olds/buick?? I'm not exactly sure.

Maybe someone could post a link to that thread. but he had the same general idea.
Not to say you should copy him,but it may help with a few ideas as you round it up.
 

Stick Figure

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He's actually mentioned the gentleman with the GN box in a couple of other threads, so he has seen it. I forget his user name but if you search mrholeshot's recent threads you'll find the links to the two threads about that wooden roll away.
 
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mrholeshot

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Are you planning to band the plywood edges with something like say hardwood?

tks

Yes. the edges and front will be soild oak. My objective is that no screws will show and no plywood edges will be seen on the front and sides. I'm cutting the back of the box today. When that Furniture grade Oak Plywood cost over 60 dollars a sheet it changes from just a cut to event status. I'm sure it will take me 6 months to complete as I'm working by myself and most of that out of a wheelchair. I do wan't it to look good. Having 0 woodworking experiance makes it more of a challange. I'm sure I'll screw up a few times but in the end it's just a toolbox and not a museum peice
 

bchee

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I must have missed the fact that you were in a wheelchair before. Who is helping you manipulate this thing? That wood gets real heavy
 
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mrholeshot

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I must have missed the fact that you were in a wheelchair before. Who is helping you manipulate this thing? That wood gets real heavy

I do it myself. If I absolutly have to stand I can but the pain really gets me. If my heart is in A-fib I won't stand. My new pacemaker helps a lot and allows me to keep working with my hands. I just figure out a way to move stuff around. It's slower but I get there. My wheelchair Hoveround XHD has a foot platform that is wide, when I need to move something heavy I will set it on the landing and use it like a mini fork lift. When I work on my race car I use my lift and raise it just high enough to be able to roll around under it in my chair. One of the hardest things I've been doing is lifting and cutting the 3/4 plywood. Not only is it heavy from a sitting position but very bulky. It's just one of those things that if you want to do it bad enough you'll find a way. If I get in a bind I can always pick up the phone and call one of my sons. When I went to get all the wood one of my sons went with me to load and unload it for me. The rest I've done on my own other than flipping the box back on it's wheels and my wife helped me with that.

I still ride my motorcycle as it doesn't put much pressure on my legs. Been thinking of making it a trike but going to try a few more suguries before I throw in the towel on two wheels
 
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mrholeshot

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Nice project, and I commend you sir, for your spirit and determination. See my signature.
Thanks a bunch, With me I have no time line to meet and I love a challange. I cut the back of the box today (60 dollar sheet of Oak and missed the measurement by the width of the blade. Because it's on the back I'll work it out but it really pissed me off.lol

I put the wood on a floor jack and used that to lift it into place. It's just nice to have a project to work on. Sitting around finding excuses would be depressing. Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass but learning to dance in the rain.
 

bchee

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I cut the back of the box today (60 dollar sheet of Oak and missed the measurement by the width of the blade. Because it's on the back I'll work it out but it really pissed me off.lol


Maybe you should have measure 16 times instead of 14:lol_hitti

Just kidding, I know how pissed I would be.
 
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mrholeshot

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here is a picture of the chair I use at home and in the shop. I have a newer one I use for cruising lowes, sears and other places I keep in my van. I use the platforn on the front to help me carry stuff. I can fold it up when I need to get in close

IMG_0921.jpg


Here are a few other things I've picked up over the last week or so other than the table saw.

IMG_0920.jpg
 
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mrholeshot

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Here is the problem I created today. Was wondering if I could shave down a peice of wood and glue it in the crack. The crack is about .045 all the way down. Any suggestions other than buying another sheet of this gold encusted plywood?

IMG_0917.jpg
 
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mrholeshot

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Maybe you should have measure 16 times instead of 14:lol_hitti
.

I measured that thing I bet at least 10 times, made sure the lines and the board were square. Made the cut on the line. I guess i sould have cut on the outside of the line. I've been cutting just a hair large and sanding down to fit. I screwed to pooch this round.
 

bchee

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how about glue and caulk?
Or wood putty.
It will look crappy but at least it's on the back.

What router did you get?
 
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mrholeshot

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how about glue and caulk?
Or wood putty.
It will look crappy but at least it's on the back.

What router did you get?
Makita I bought from my son. He had 3 of them and sold me one for 30 dollars with a box of Columbia bits. He wanted to give it to me but I wasn't having it so I paid for him and his wife to go out and eat. I can't imagine how they got out of Outback for 30 dollars. Cost me 50 at least for the wife and I. I've got to practice with that a bit before I go screwing up nice wood
 
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mrholeshot

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how about glue and caulk?
Or wood putty.
It will look crappy but at least it's on the back.
My son says he can fill that crack and I won't be able to tell. Like you he said "Hey it's on the back where you will have screw holes anyway". I want the back to be able to come on and off as I intend to build a locking systen for it and will need access. His other suggestion was to leave the crack and quit being so **** about it.:lol_hitti
 

Teken

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Here is the problem I created today. Was wondering if I could shave down a peice of wood and glue it in the crack. The crack is about .045 all the way down. Any suggestions other than buying another sheet of this gold encusted plywood?

IMG_0917.jpg

I guess a person needs to be there in person because based on the photo you have uploaded I can't see a crack? :headscrat

I would have to gather once you also secure the back side with screws and glue it would self gap anyways? Given your humid climate? :headscrat :spit:
 
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