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My Wood Tool Chest Thread

OccupantRJ

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I measured that thing I bet at least 10 times, made sure the lines and the board were square. Made the cut on the line. I guess i sould have cut on the outside of the line. I've been cutting just a hair large and sanding down to fit. I screwed to pooch this round.

Center it so there is half the crack width on each end, attach, then caulk with a butyl caulk, which remains very flexible. That way you end up with HALF the crack width, which is easier to hide. Wood filler will just crack later as the box flexes under weight. Found a link for you on woodworking.

http://sawdustmaking.com/
 
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mrholeshot

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I guess a person needs to be there in person because based on the photo you have uploaded I can't see a crack? :headscrat

I would have to gather once you also secure the back side with screws and glue it would self gap anyways? Given your humid climate? :headscrat :spit:
Check out the close up and you can see the crack.

Im thinkin about removing the back, shaving a peice of solid oak and gluing it to the side of the box and then when it draies I can put the back back on. I learned I can make some thin cuts on the table saw when I was cutting down 2x2s for furing strips. I shaved the second strip and only took off about .010 off. I think I'll give that a shot tommorow. To freaking hot out there right now.
 
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mrholeshot

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Center it so there is half the crack width on each end, attach, then caulk with a butyl caulk, which remains very flexible. That way you end up with HALF the crack width, which is easier to hide. Wood filler will just crack later as the box flexes under weight. Found a link for you on woodworking.

http://sawdustmaking.com/

Thanks for the link, Think I'm going to try the shim thing first. I want to be able to pull the back off a few times as I build the locks. I have to have the box finished and drawers installed for that.
 

Stick Figure

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just add some trim. Couple thin vertical pieces of trim would give it some detail and hide the gap. Since they wouldn't be structural, they can be just be glued in place, and would probably hide some of the screws used.
 
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mrholeshot

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I went ahead and fixed that ugly gap by cutting up a new sheet of oak (ouch) This time it fits much better. This is a close up of the new gap (or lack of one) The wood isn't split to the right but is the grain of the oak plywood. The change in color is just a shadow.

IMG_0924.jpg


I laid it down to install the back this time and to make sure it's square

IMG_0922.jpg


Started cutting the front peices

IMG_0926.jpg


Box front boards cut

IMG_0927.jpg


This is the top compartment. When you lift the lid this will be all felt lined. It's 7.5 inches deep. I think I'll keep a lot of boxed tools in the top.
This SOB is getting heavy
IMG_0928.jpg
 

Slip_Kid

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I would use one long piano hinge for the top lid, looks good so far. I hope you don't have to move it up those stairs, that would be a *****.
 
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mrholeshot

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I would use one long piano hinge for the top lid, looks good so far. I hope you don't have to move it up those stairs, that would be a *****.

Thats what I'm planning for the top. Those stairs just go up to the loft in my garage. it's more of a ladder. Moving that thing around on flat ground is a *****:lol_hitti
 
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mrholeshot

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this thing is serious, You got me wanting to build a wooden tool box now.

Buy a Snap-On it's cheaper. If I hadn't wanted one made of wood for the last 20 years I wouldn't have done it. I'm about 800 dollars deep right now and havent built the first drawer. I've never built anything from wood so this is my first project. I love working on it but it has gotten a lot more involved than I first thought. When it's all done I think it will be worth it. My family thinks I'm out of my mind. :beer:
 

Keep

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If you find you need to fill a small crack like that again.

Take some saw dust from the sanding of the wood in question, mix with a bit of wood glue and apply into the crack, it will pretty much disappear.

If it is a larger crack, you can use the same method, but once you are finished sanding, use a pencil to "draw" in the oak wood "flecks" if you do this carefully enough you will not be able tell where the repair once you finish the piece.
 
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mrholeshot

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If you find you need to fill a small crack like that again.

Take some saw dust from the sanding of the wood in question, mix with a bit of wood glue and apply into the crack, it will pretty much disappear.

If it is a larger crack, you can use the same method, but once you are finished sanding, use a pencil to "draw" in the oak wood "flecks" if you do this carefully enough you will not be able tell where the repair once you finish the piece.
Being as this is a one time deal I figured I wantrd it as right as I could get it. My son was telling me about that method and I have a screwhole that I filled like this. I took the sanding dust from the bag on my sander and mixed it with wood glue filled the hole and will sand it down tommorow. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Stick Figure

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Looking good. On the bright side of cutting a new piece for the back. At least now you can use the old back to start a top box, or a road box. ;)
 

stevejh82

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You keep saying it will take six months, but it looks like it won't take nearly that long! I like what I see, and have enjoyed following the thread. Glad to see you're enjoying yourself :thumbup:
 

bchee

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I went ahead and fixed that ugly gap by cutting up a new sheet of oak (ouch) This time it fits much better.

Are you serious?

I didn't realize you were that ****.:bounce:
So what is happening with the old piece?
 

blue dog

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Mrholeshot, i was doing a little research, and thought you might like to look at your options for drawer slides. Accurride and k and v are 2 good brands that are trouble free, they both have various weight ratings and are easily available. I would all so recommend full extensions on the slides so the drawer comes all the way out of the box. Are you building your own drawers?
You could probably have a local cabinet builder make you some nice dove tail jointed drawers out of fin ply with half inch bottoms.
Lastly, are you going to stain, paint or just seal the oak ply on the ext,?
And what is the top going to be?

http://www.drawerslides.com/m/Accuride?gclid=COma59_Hv6MCFQE-bAodKiIJhA

Try this for a good work top surface
http://perfectplank.com/maplewildwood.html
Try not to use laminated ply for your work surface, you will allways have issues with the edging, and the actual work surface will be to delicate for all your tool comparison testing.
 
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mrholeshot

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Are you serious?

I didn't realize you were that ****.:bounce:
So what is happening with the old piece?
Drawer fronts, lol

I figured this is something I have wanted for 20 years and I wasn't going to let a 60 dollar sheet of Oak plywood stand in the way of doing something that I'll only do once. When it comes to building cars I'm a perfectionist. I know this box won't be perfect but it deserves my best. That gap would have buged me to death and I know I would have always wished I would have fixed it.
 
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mrholeshot

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Mrholeshot, i was doing a little research, and thought you might like to look at your options for drawer slides. Accurride and k and v are 2 good brands that are trouble free, they both have various weight ratings and are easily available. I would all so recommend full extensions on the slides so the drawer comes all the way out of the box. Are you building your own drawers?
You could probably have a local cabinet builder make you some nice dove tail jointed drawers out of fin ply with half inch bottoms.
Lastly, are you going to stain, paint or just seal the oak ply on the ext,?
And what is the top going to be?

http://www.drawerslides.com/m/Accuride?gclid=COma59_Hv6MCFQE-bAodKiIJhA

Try this for a good work top surface
http://perfectplank.com/maplewildwood.html
Try not to use laminated ply for your work surface, you will allways have issues with the edging, and the actual work surface will be to delicate for all your tool comparison testing.

I already have my slides, They are super heavy duty full length compound roller bearing slides I found at lowes. They are really nice slides and are 18 dollars a pair and have a rating of 100 pounds per slide.

Yes I am building my own drawers. I won't be doing the dovetails because I cant do that myself. They will be plenty strong as I'll be using 2X4 sides ripped down to about 1 1/4 (2X? on the other drawers) on the upper drawers with 1/2 plywood bottoms. A little bulky but strong.

I'm going to stain the box in Golden oak and they give it a few coats of semi-gloss polyurathane.

The top won't be used as a work surface, it is only a lid for the top compartment. Being as I do most of my work in the shop in a wheelchair 48 inches tall is a bit high for working off of and the large compartment will be the perfect place to store all my stuff (well some of it) for my Boxed tools that don't get used much. The Plywood top will have edge trim so I'm not to worried about delaminating as I will be putting trim on the top edge. I may have photos of the top later on today.

Thanks for your intrest and suggestions. I can use all the advice I can get:thumbup:
 
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mrholeshot

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You keep saying it will take six months, but it looks like it won't take nearly that long! I like what I see, and have enjoyed following the thread. Glad to see you're enjoying yourself :thumbup:
I guesstimated six months because I have no idae what I'm doing. The real challange for me will be the drawers:headscrat
 

hammlm

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Yes I am building my own drawers. I won't be doing the dovetails because I cant do that myself. They will be plenty strong as I'll be using 2X4 sides ripped down to about 1 1/4 (2X? on the other drawers) on the upper drawers with 1/2 plywood bottoms. A little bulky but strong.

Don't sell yourself short. You said earlier you had a router. Your 1-1/4" is really thick, but the Porter Cable 4112 makes nice half-blind dovetails reliably and repeatedly. I've used mine a ton since I got it. It will take an hour, maybe two until you get it set up dead-nuts and tuned in for your application, but you can make drawers with front and rear dovetails super quick with one of these once your figure it out. The PC 4112 has bigger brothers, and they are awesome, but come at a price.

You've got the woodworking skill and obviously the patience.....if you want to do the dovetails, you can!.
 

blue dog

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Thanxs for the reply mrholeshot. how do you plan on holding the flip up top up? Maybe some little shock absorbers like you see on a camper shell window or hood.
Sorry for all the questions, just that i have been diggin on this thread due to the fact that i am going to do the same thing one day, just in a bit of a different fashion.
Build on and looking good.
 

ADaughen

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Don't sell yourself short. You said earlier you had a router. Your 1-1/4" is really thick, but the Porter Cable 4112 makes nice half-blind dovetails reliably and repeatedly. I've used mine a ton since I got it. It will take an hour, maybe two until you get it set up dead-nuts and tuned in for your application, but you can make drawers with front and rear dovetails super quick with one of these once your figure it out. The PC 4112 has bigger brothers, and they are awesome, but come at a price.

You've got the woodworking skill and obviously the patience.....if you want to do the dovetails, you can!.


Those jigs are great.

mrholeshot, if your sons are woodworkers they probably have one laying around gathering sawdust. Borrow it for a trial run. :thumbup:
 
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mrholeshot

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Here it is with the top on with some suttle edge molding on the top. As bad as I wanted to do it all myself I had to call my son over to help me set the top. He was close by and came over to give old dad a hand.

IMG_0929.jpg


here is a closer shot of the top ledge of the box

IMG_0931.jpg


Here it is with the top open. I have several 30" stainless piano hinges and 3 lift supprts. I want to get the gas charged units later on. Nobody had exactly what I was looking for. It opens pretty easy, locks in place and a simple push back will unlock it and it will come on down.

IMG_0932.jpg


I got my son (very reluctantly, lol) to climb up into the top to give you an idea of the size. He's 5'10" and 170lbs. He's the runt of the litter

IMG_0935.jpg


This is him stretched out in the box (come on daddy I feel like an idiot, lol)

I have a lot of sanding to do over the next few days and then on to the drawers (yeehaa?) I imagine I'll burn down the sander all day tommorow.

IMG_0934.jpg
 
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mrholeshot

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Those jigs are great.

mrholeshot, if your sons are woodworkers they probably have one laying around gathering sawdust. Borrow it for a trial run. :thumbup:
They don't have one and my wife has put me on tool probation. :(
 

superautobacs

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I'm guessing you're talking about the Kreg pocket-hole jig?
If so, tell her acquiring the Kreg jig will equate to projects beyond the garage....ie. kitchen cabinets, benches and tables that she can use. ;)
 
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mrholeshot

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I'm guessing you're talking about the Kreg pocket-hole jig?
If so, tell her acquiring the Kreg jig will equate to projects beyond the garage....ie. kitchen cabinets, benches and tables that she can use. ;)
She's got my number, I can't get away with anything. :lol_hitti
 
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mrholeshot

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wow man, i'm loving this. BTW your avatar of your kitty is awesome. I got 2 crazy cats myself.

Thanks, I have two cats. I got the kitten in my avatar when my last cat got run over. She loved the outdoors. She got snake bit on the 28th, one month from taht day she got snake bit and then one month to te day she got hit by a car. She was fearless and thats what killed her.

here are the photos of my current cats. The first one is boots. She is every bit as crazy as she looks and loves to play fetch.

IMG_0781.jpg


This one is Rabbit. She is a natural born bobtail and whe she runs she hops just like a rabbit. She greets me at the door whenever I come in no matter if it's been 5 minutes or 5 days. Whe she heres my wheelchair hit the ramp she runs for the door. Very loving and affectionate.

IMG_0737.jpg
 

blue dog

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Then me and kitty would get a beat down:bounce:

Due to the fact that the garage is sacred and off limits to those that pee sitting down, she will never see the new jig that you and boots have purchased. Now if she were to find it in , lets say the kitchen, thats a different deal.
Boot's sure is a cute little kitten by the way.
Build on and i hope you are enjoying yourself during this build.
 

nismomans13

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awesome cats man, Boots looks crazy like my orange tabby Danny, the other one is a short hair who is pretty calm now a days but he was pretty insane, they'll both sit by the basement door while i'm in the garage for HOURS.
 
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mrholeshot

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Due to the fact that the garage is sacred and off limits to those that pee sitting down, she will never see the new jig that you and boots have purchased. Now if she were to find it in , lets say the kitchen, thats a different deal.
Boot's sure is a cute little kitten by the way.
Build on and i hope you are enjoying yourself during this build.
If I buy another tool in the next 6 months I'll be sitting down to pee:shocking::shocking:

My wife actually enjoys being out in the garage. She will come out and help me out, she sets the rack when I put cars on the lift and even helps polish my motorcycle. Then there is the race car. very sour subject matter for her but she will go to the track, adjust my air pressures and line me up in the groove. She even makes sure I have cold drinks in the fridge out in the shop. I think I'll keep this one.
 
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