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A short ratchet tutorial. Dissembling, lubing, and spring clipping

Kirbot

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I've mentioned a few times that I clip the selector spring in most of my ratchets, and a lot of people here lube there ratchets.
Now, lubing a ratchet is fairly self-explanatory, but clipping the spring makes an even bigger difference, and not many people do it.

So here are 3 ratchets, and how to do the above to them.

First up, is a modern Craftsman Raised panel 3/8" ratchet.

First thing to do, is take some snap-ring pliers, and remove the retaining ring.

Then remove the cover plate and gear...

Then reach in with a pick and remove the pawl, being careful not to let the spring and ball fly out.

Now remove the ball and spring.

Now cut the spring down some. I like to make it about flush with the bottom of the ratchet.
edit
Some people have said that that makes it a little too loose for their taste.
You may wan't to leave a little more spring intact, see how you like it.
Clip it more if you think it needs it.

Dab some grease on top of the spring, It helps the ball stick to it, making it easier to reassemble.

Now, place the ball back on top of the spring, and hold down with a pick.

Drop the pawl back in place and put the selector back in place.
Turn the selector upside down, and jiggle it in place while turning it back down.

Add some grease to the gear (I use Super lube), finish reassembling, and your done!


Next up is a Duralast 3/8" ratchet.
I'm a big fan of Duralast ratchets now that I've tried them.
However, they are quite stiff and course before opening them up and doing a little work.

The screws holding the cover plate on look like torx, but none of my torx bits fit very well. Torx plus maybe? I don't know, but I was able to make do with a T10 size torx bit.

This time the pawl and lever are held together with another torx screw. (Size T6)

The rest is done exactly the same as the Craftsman above.
Clip the spring about flush, hold it down with a pick, lube, and reassemble.


And finally, an old -v- series Craftsman Raised panel 3/8" ratchet.
This one is a little different than either of the above ratchets.
You don't actually have to remove the gear to get to the pawl.

Just use a pair of needlenose pliers and remove the the direction lever.

Use the pliers to pull the pawl out, and do everything else the same way as above.

And thats that!
I really can't recommend spring clipping enough.
After clipping, my Duralast actually has slightly less resistance than even my Snap-on Dual 80.
 
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Kirbot

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I see you added a new 3/8 to the collection of Duralast

Indeed I did.
I got it in a trade off the classifieds, I don't think it ever had a socket on it.

I really wan't to try a 1/4" flex head, I just hate to pay full price!
I keep hoping one will turn up in the classifieds, or they'll go on sale or something.
 

czgunner

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I'll ask because I don't know, what (if any) are the downsides to clipping the spring?
 

bchee

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Nice picts.
I would just say, be very cautious about how much you cut off, you cant go back in time.
Also be aware that clipped ratchets start acting funny.
 
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Kirbot

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Nice picts.
I would just say, be very cautious about how much you cut off, you cant go back in time.
Also be aware that clipped ratchets start acting funny.

At very worst you could buy a new spring.
But I really don't know what you mean by "acting funny" unless you clipped them way too short.

I clipped my Cornwell right after I got it, and it's worked great ever since.
 
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Kirbot

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wouldnt there be less tension if you shortened the spring?

Of course.
Less tension = less resistance.

There no less reliable or weaker however.

If anything, I think the Craftsman is less likely to auto reverse after clipping.
 

Davefr

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Short clipping??

What do we know that the ratchet designer's don't about spring tension??

Just curious what the tradeoff is??
 
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bchee

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But I really don't know what you mean by "acting funny" unless you clipped them way too short.

Once you castrate a ratchet it doesnt want to work as hard. Just wants to hang out with other dude ratchets, like in your sig.
 

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DrkMtnDew

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nice review, nice pics. i've got a spare CMRP here i might expiriment with. see how it works out. :bounce:
 

Simplespeed

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It lowers the ratcheting torque so coarse tooth ratchets (I guess less than 40 teeth) dont feel so stiff.

I guess iv never had a ratchet that was stiff enough that it made me think i needed to modify it? I mean, it cant be that bad can it? This is more for someone who just wants to do something to their ratchet isnt it?
 

farmmech86

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Instead of clipping the spring, I humbly suggest just putting the spring between a pair of pliers and smashing it a few times. :thumbup: @simplespeed - I've done it to my 3/8 craftsman ratchets and it makes them much smoother. To me, it was a noticeable improvement. I lubed it with 15W-40 motor oil.

Also, to reassemble, I put the ball on the spring, then I take a small strip of thin cardboard (like from a headlight bulb package) and slip it through the hole on the ratchet head and over the little ball. That way, I can hold down on the cardboard, slip the pawl in the ratchet head, put the selector switch in and pull the cardboard back out. Works like a charm!
 
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Kirbot

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:spit:

"They both have balls" :shocking::shocking:

It lowers the ratcheting torque so coarse tooth ratchets (I guess less than 40 teeth) dont feel so stiff.

Exactly.

I guess iv never had a ratchet that was stiff enough that it made me think i needed to modify it? I mean, it cant be that bad can it? This is more for someone who just wants to do something to their ratchet isnt it?
It only takes a few minutes.
If you don't think it's worth it, than don't bother.
But it does make a big difference.
Less resistance = less having un-screw stiff nuts/bolts that are to lose to use a ratchet on.
 
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Kirbot

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nice review, nice pics. i've got a spare CMRP here i might expiriment with. see how it works out. :bounce:

Let us know how you like it.
If your's nervous, just clip a little off.
No need to clip as much as I did.

But the more you clip, the smoother it is.
Instead of clipping the spring, I humbly suggest just putting the spring between a pair of pliers and smashing it a few times. :thumbup: @simplespeed - I've done it to my 3/8 craftsman ratchets and it makes them much smoother. To me, it was a noticeable improvement. I lubed it with 15W-40 motor oil.

Also, to reassemble, I put the ball on the spring, then I take a small strip of thin cardboard (like from a headlight bulb package) and slip it through the hole on the ratchet head and over the little ball. That way, I can hold down on the cardboard, slip the pawl in the ratchet head, put the selector switch in and pull the cardboard back out. Works like a charm!

Good idea, I might have to try that.
 

ngk22r

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I have done this with my Snap-on 800 series and 900 series ratchet. I will say it is alot easier to do on the 800 series. the 936 ratchets will leave you cursing a storm unless you have the updated "ball" (which has a small stud on it to attach itself to the spring).

The Snap-on ratchet springs get clipped the same way, just to be flush or a hair below the opening of the hole.
 

mrholeshot

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I hear once they are clipped they just arn't as stiff anymore. Then they just lay around in the corner of the toolbox.
 

Skin

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Short clipping??

What do we know that the ratchet designer's don't about spring tension??

Just curious what the tradeoff is??

My guess is the spring is made with a certain amount of life expectancy before it loses its springiness. Ever notice how your most used ratchets feel different [smoother] than new ones?

I'm a firm believer that the guys who design things do it the way they do for a reason. If they wanted less tension against the pawl, they'd come this way out of the box.

Want lower resistance? Get ratchets with a finer tooth count. My 2 cents.
 
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Kirbot

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My guess is the spring is made with a certain amount of life expectancy before it loses its springiness. Ever notice how your most used ratchets feel different [smoother] than new ones?

I'm a firm believer that the guys who design things do it the way they do for a reason. If they wanted less tension against the pawl, they'd come this way out of the box.
Want lower resistance? Get ratchets with a finer tooth count. My 2 cents.

If in 10 years the spring is worn out, I'll spend $.50 and get a new one.

I wouldn't worry about it too much though.
I've got ratchets that are well over 20 years old, that still benefited from spring clipping.

As I said, I have a 3/8" F80.... Thats no reason not to take 5 minutes to vastly improve all my other ratchets.
 

Skin

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Just a note so that others dont get confused, you have ratchets that are 20 years old, but you havent been using them for that long with this modification.

People can do whatever they like, not saying its bad to clip the spring, and you're right a rebuild kit is cheap, but i do think the length they're cut at inside the factory is intentional so personally i wouldnt bother. If you wrench for a living your ratchets will wear in fast anyway.
 
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Kirbot

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I suggest that you try it before you knock it.

I have a 36 tooth Snap-on ratchet that I bought used, and I can assure your, it's about as "worn in" as it's going to get.

It was still way to stiff for my tastes.
After clipping, it's far far better.

I'm a firm believer that the guys who design things do it the way they do for a reason.
I'll keep that in mind next time I'm working on my Jeep.:rolleyes2
About the only thing left on that, that is original is the frame and axles.
(And I wouldn't mind swapping the axles out for that matter)
 

Skin

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Remember your jeep had multiple engineers/designers involved in it production ;). When it all came together thats when you get the mess that creates the "what in the f' were they thinking? i'd like to see the a-hole who designed this take it apart!" moments.
 

jrodc455

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When I rebuild the raised panels at work, if they slip real bad when I try em out I sand down the pawl with the dremel. It seems to get rid of the slippage pretty good.
 
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