10 gauge wire

[Mike Honcho]

I have 1/2 emt (i know, a little small) run for my compressor, my question is, would you run solid or stranded 10 gauge, 50 feet 270 degrees of bends. if stranded, how would i go about bonding the box that the compressor whip will come into, crimp connector?

 

[Labradorian]

I have 1/2 emt (i know, a little small) run for my compressor, my question is, would you run solid or stranded 10 gauge, 50 feet 270 degrees of bends. if stranded, how would i go about bonding the box that the compressor whip will come into, crimp connector?

You can use either, no code restriction. It is just easier to pull stranded through the conduit.

A crimp type connector works best on stranded wire, crimping connectors wouldn't bite onto a solid wire very well. I wouldn't use crimp connectors on solid wire.

cheers

 

[rockwithjason]

you can buy prefab bonding pig tails with the screws attached, then you just wire nut them together.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I would use stranded wire,then just bond the ground wire from compressor to the box.Use the conduit as mech ground back to panel.

 

[teamextreme]

I would avoid solid #10 like the plague. Pain in the *** to work with and pulling in conduit, especially 1/2", will be a high risk for knicking the wire. With 270 degrees of bends, you'll be much happier with stranded. BTW, code says you can pull 6 THHN's in a 1/2", but I can't imagine stuffing that many in there. For the 2 wires you'll need, 1/2" is fine.

 

[cagullett1]

After recently wiring a 5kw 240V heater.... I HATE 10G solid wire. The flexibility of the stranded is necessary to run in those sharp bends.

 

[alfredeneuman]

you can buy prefab bonding pig tails with the screws attached, then you just wire nut them together.

The bonding pigtails only have #12 wire. In this case it would need to be #10.
____________________________________________________________

#10 Solid will leave you cussing, and swearing not to make that mistake again, especially with 270° of bend.
As others have said, go with Stranded

 

[pattenp]

The bonding pigtails only have #12 wire. In this case it would need to be #10.

Why? #12 is fine as a ground on a 20A up to 60A circuit. Wrong

Edit: Ground does need to be #10. My brain was not working when I typed my reply. I'm just going to blame it on a senior moment.



*

 

[sberry]

Rut Rowe.

 

[600SL]

I would avoid solid #10 like the plague. Pain in the *** to work with and pulling in conduit, especially 1/2", will be a high risk for knicking the wire. With 270 degrees of bends, you'll be much happier with stranded. BTW, code says you can pull 6 THHN's in a 1/2", but I can't imagine stuffing that many in there. For the 2 wires you'll need, 1/2" is fine.

I disagree.

Me and my wife just pulled 7 THHN #10 through about 90 ft of 3/4 EMT with over 400° of bend. It was 3/4" but there were 7 #10 stranded. I also did 7 #12 of solid in 3/4" EMT ~ 270° and 50'. I did that one dry. I did use plenty of lube. 2 #10 in 1/2" solid or stranded would be fine very very easy.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

I disagree.

Me and my wife just pulled 7 THHN #10 through about 90 ft of 3/4 EMT with over 400° of bend. It was 3/4" but there were 7 #10 stranded. I also did 7 #12 of solid in 3/4" EMT ~ 270° and 50'. I did that one dry. I did use plenty of lube. 2 #10 in 1/2" solid or stranded would be fine very very easy.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Why? #12 is fine as a ground on a 20A up to 60A circuit.

Huh?

Table 250.122 Minimum Size Equipment Grounding
Conductors for Grounding Raceway and Equipment


(Amperes)
Size---------------------Copper-----Aluminum or Copper-Clad Aluminum
15-------------------------14---------------------12
20-------------------------12---------------------10
60-------------------------10---------------------8
100------------------------8----------------------6

 

[pattenp]

Huh?

Table 250.122 Minimum Size Equipment Grounding
Conductors for Grounding Raceway and Equipment


(Amperes)
Size---------------------Copper-----Aluminum or Copper-Clad Aluminum
15-------------------------14---------------------12
20-------------------------12---------------------10
60-------------------------10---------------------8
100------------------------8----------------------6

You're right, I had a brain block. #12 is up to 20A and #10 is up to 60A. I don't know why I said that, I knew better.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I disagree.

Me and my wife just pulled 7 THHN #10 through about 90 ft of 3/4 EMT with over 400° of bend. It was 3/4" but there were 7 #10 stranded. I also did 7 #12 of solid in 3/4" EMT ~ 270° and 50'. I did that one dry. I did use plenty of lube. 2 #10 in 1/2" solid or stranded would be fine very very easy.

U forgot an LB or pull box...cant have more than 360* worth of bends before u need a pull point...

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Yep.

 

[teamextreme]

I disagree.

Me and my wife just pulled 7 THHN #10 through about 90 ft of 3/4 EMT with over 400° of bend. It was 3/4" but there were 7 #10 stranded. I also did 7 #12 of solid in 3/4" EMT ~ 270° and 50'. I did that one dry. I did use plenty of lube. 2 #10 in 1/2" solid or stranded would be fine very very easy.

You disagree because you've pulled a completely different number of conductors through a completely different size conduit....uh huh. Besides, I didn't say 2 #10's in a 1/2" would be an issue, quite the opposite, I also said 2 would be fine. And like Wylies said, 400 degrees of bends in a single pull is a code violation.

 

[Mike Honcho]

Thanks guys,

as long as the crimp connectors are UL listed, they are good to go correct? theres no other nec code for these?

 

[600SL]

U forgot an LB or pull box...cant have more than 360* worth of bends before u need a pull point...

I did not forget. I had boxes every 8 ft on that run. So at most I had no more than 90° of bend before another box. I just decided to run the pull to a point over 400°. I could have pushed it another 50' and 270° to complete the job but I elected to re-feed it from the last continuous wire.

 

[600SL]

You disagree because you've pulled a completely different number of conductors through a completely different size conduit....uh huh. Besides, I didn't say 2 #10's in a 1/2" would be an issue, quite the opposite, I also said 2 would be fine. And like Wylies said, 400 degrees of bends in a single pull is a code violation.

I gave you a comparison of two wire pulls with significantly higher fill ratios. No not exactly the same but both significantly more difficult pulls.

As far as the 360° rule, code only requires a pull box to be placed at 360° intervals. I doesn't restrict you from actually pulling under 360°.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Thanks guys,

as long as the crimp connectors are UL listed, they are good to go correct? theres no other nec code for these?

Correct. U/L listed and rated for the correct voltage and amperage....

 

[Mike Honcho]

Correct. U/L listed and rated for the correct voltage and amperage....

Thanks,

any tips on wire nutting 4 of these wires together? once i have the switch, i will have pigtails from the box and the switch plus the 2 main ground wires. getting 3 in a wire nut was a pain enough, now i need to add one more.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Thanks,

any tips on wire nutting 4 of these wires together? once i have the switch, i will have pigtails from the box and the switch plus the 2 main ground wires. getting 3 in a wire nut was a pain enough, now i need to add one more.

What size wire? #12? And is the j box metal or plastic? If metal and the switch is self grou ding then u can elimnate the ground pigtail to the switch.

If plastic have u ever seen these:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Gree...rs-92-Green-100-per-Package-30-192P/202894282

Will take max 4 #12 plus has feed through hole so u can eliminate 1 wire, keep one of the remaining 3 long and continue it onto the switch...

Your other option is crimp sleeves...I dont like those as much...I prefer the wire nuts...

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-14-8-AWG-Copper-Crimp-Connectors-50-Pack-10-311C/202520223/

 

[Mike Honcho]

What size wire? #12? And is the j box metal or plastic? If metal and the switch is self grou ding then u can elimnate the ground pigtail to the switch.

If plastic have u ever seen these:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Gree...rs-92-Green-100-per-Package-30-192P/202894282

Will take max 4 #12 plus has feed through hole so u can eliminate 1 wire, keep one of the remaining 3 long and continue it onto the switch...

Your other option is crimp sleeves...I dont like those as much...I prefer the wire nuts...

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-14-8-AWG-Copper-Crimp-Connectors-50-Pack-10-311C/202520223/

all 10 gauge in a metal box and this switch you recommended in the air compressor thread.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MPQ51O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417614330&sr=8-1

Thanks.

 

[Banjorear]

I would avoid solid #10 like the plague. Pain in the *** to work with and pulling in conduit, especially 1/2", will be a high risk for knicking the wire. With 270 degrees of bends, you'll be much happier with stranded. BTW, code says you can pull 6 THHN's in a 1/2", but I can't imagine stuffing that many in there. For the 2 wires you'll need, 1/2" is fine.

I just did my garage using old 10/3 armor clad wire. It was a chore getting it into the duplexes even with deep boxes.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

all 10 gauge in a metal box and this switch you recommended in the air compressor thread.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MPQ51O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417614330&sr=8-1

Thanks.

O ok well that switch IS NOT self grounding so u need to ground it!

 

[Mike Honcho]

Correct. U/L listed and rated for the correct voltage and amperage....

Thanks, I found blue wire nuts good for 4-10 gauge wires.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yup big blues!